Pondering acquiring a tracksaw

[Allan Speers]

I love my Eurekazone system.

While you lose almost 1" depth-of-cut, the stiffer rail has several advantages. Most important:

1: You can (and should) use it on elevated table system, that is, on top of sacrificial supports. This is much, MUCH better than using a sheet of foam, or whatever.

2: It makes 1/8" and 1/4" sheets conform to IT, instead of the other way around. This leads to better cuts if the sheet isn't dead-flat.

Also, I just LOVE the clamps.

Then there are all the add-ons, which Festool also offers, of course, such as a base for your router.

I think a Festool TS75 on the EZ rail is close to perfection. If you need a deeper cut, then the 10" Makita, though then you have no riving knife. (but a riving knife isn't all that important with a tracksaw, anyway.)

I don't need to do plunge cuts, though if I did, that can be done on the EZ-One table, by lowering the bridge into the cut.

[Jeffrey Martel]

I have a few more questions.

-Of the six dedicated purchased track saws, they are all 6 1/2 or am I missing something?

-Of the six dedicated track saw listed, they are all plunge style saws?

-Slightly OT, why would you need plunge cut with a circular saw? I cannot think of a time that I have needed it in 25+ years of fixing and making stuff.

-In regards to the EZSmart Eurekazone system, if I provide my own saw it would be a 7 1/4" saw. Would I be able to gain and use the extra?

-In contemplating the EZSmart system, are there any good circular saws with a dust collection port? Neither of mine do but both are older.

1. Blades are 160mm with a 20mm arbor on all of them, I believe.

2. I believe they are, yes.

3. In more carpentry type environments I can see using plunge cuts. Cutting out window holes, marking u-shaped cutouts where they need to be straight, etc.

Not familiar with the EZSmart system.

I also discovered this summer that a track saw is a great way to make a straight cut on a flat-top fence. Worked far better than me trying to hold up a regular circular saw and trying to follow a line.

[Ken Kortge]

You asked: "-In regards to the EZSmart Eurekazone system, if I provide my own saw it would be a 7 1/4" saw. Would I be able to gain and use the extra?"

I'm not sure what you mean. If you provide your own saw, the base can accept many different types and sizes of saw, including the 7-1/4" saws. Some folks use the 8-1/4" Makita 5008MGA to get the extra depth of cut for 1.5 lumber. They sell the kits assuming that you're going to install your own base. It looks pretty easy - they have a good video on youtube. I am not sure what extra you are referring to.

If you buy a EZ Ready saw and then get the kit, the kit comes with a base. You can use that to add a second saw to your set of tools ... if that's what you mean. That's what I did. My base is still sitting naked - without a saw attached to it. Don't really need it I suppose.

Go to the Eurekazone Product area where they list the EZ Ready tools and then to to EZ Ready Components. There you'll find the vacuum attachments. Click on them and you'll see videos about them and how to install them. Looks easy though I've never tapped metal for screws. Looks easy enough considering he's doing it left handed for the video. The voice is Dino -the inventor. If you have questions post them to the forum and likely Dino himself will answer them, if not the others.

I should also mention that I use an older version of Eurekazone's Multiform Table Top Kit. Attached to a 2x4 sheet of 3/4 plywood you get an amazingly stable and functional cutting table that will hold a full 4x8 sheet of plywood. Great not only for the track cutting but also for using jig saws, drilling, .... and fairly portable.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I was not sure if (a) there was something in the design that kept the saw from going all the way down, and (b) how much of the 7 1/4" cutting depth was lost when the EZSmart base was added.

[Jeff Bartley]

Anthony,
My experience is limited to the dewalt but I can clarify that it uses a 165/20mm arbor blade, festool uses a 160/20mm.
Sink cut-outs in a wooden or laminate countertop is one place where a plunge cut is necessary. Plunge cuts are very easy, the riving knife just moves up as you plunge the saw. I've also plunged into MDF to make a tapered jig for use on the table saw.
One aspect of the track saw that I would add is that the rubber strips most definitely get worn over time and you lose a bit of the zero-clearance. I still haven't tried linking two tracks together but I'd love to see how well that works.
One last thing: the blade change on the dewalt is only awkward once!
Hope this helps!

[Jim Dwight]

I believe the plunge cut is perhaps mostly for dust collection and possibly safety and not so much for functionality. Making the saw plunge allows there to be a rigid shroud around the blade that is key to good dust collection. It also allows the base of the saw to be flat so you can set it down very safely. The pivoting guard of my circular saws also jambs sometimes encouraging manipulation with the blade running which is not safe. The plunge mechanism doesn't in my experience jamb. Then there is the occasional need to start the cut in the middle of something.

I've never used the Eurekazone but I believe it doesn't allow you to use the guide strip effectively except at 90 degrees. The guide strip is on the cut line at 45 degrees with the track saws. Users report good cut quality but I've never gotten as good a cut from my circular saws as I get with my track saw, even with a fine tooth blade I think it pretty good.

I agree with Jeff, the DeWalt system is a bit non-intuitive and I needed the picture guide that comes with the saw the first time. But then you understand the steps and it is actually a good system. It is certainly not awkward compared to having to jamb the blade into something to loosen the nut or push in a spring loaded pin to lock the arbor when loosening the nut. It may be awkward relative to the festool blade change but it isn't a significant issue. There is a button and lever to manipulate, both right on top of the saw, and you use an allen wrench stored in the saw handle to loosen the nut. You basically have to plunge the saw to the depth where the nut is available through the blade guard, lock the plunge, lock the arbor, and loosen the nut.

[Rich Engelhardt]

-Slightly OT, why would you need plunge cut with a circular saw? I cannot think of a time that I have needed it in 25+ years of fixing and making stuff.

The very first time you lay a plunge cut saw down flat on a surface after making a cut & not worrying about a spinning blade, you'll wonder why you waited so long for this small convenience.
It's not really a planned feature of the plunge function, but, it's something you really miss when it's not there.

This is the cutting table I use.
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm

With my saw, I usually end up laying the saw across the two narrower cross members while I move the plywood around after making a cut. Both the fully enclosed blade (made possible by the plunge) and the rather precarious place to place the saw make using a plngue saw much more steady than a conventional circular saw.
I also use that same table when using my circular saw with a shop made guide for things that a track can't lay flat on - - such as counter tops with a built in splash guard.
When I do that, I always end up bending down and putting the circular saw on the ground.

It really sounds like a ridiculously trivial thing, but, at my age and girth, the less bending down I do, the better off I am!

[Anthony Whitesell]

If I turn the plunge cut design around, the primary is and would be the "better blade guard". I do agree the guards on both of my circular saws stink. Granted they are better than the guard (that was) on the tablesaw. The plunge design blade guard looks far superior and beneficial than the old standard circular saw blade guard. The ability to plunge the blade down into the middle of a solid piece (as mentioned, sink cutouts) is a fringe benefit.

[cody michael]

I think a tracksaw could be a cool addition to my shop, 1 think I have noticed is I hardly ever see a used one for sale.

[Cary Falk]

I am into my DeWalt for $310 with one 55" track. I bought a 2nd 55" track and it was a PITA. I now have the long track. I found that at the connection point of the tracks, one edge of the track would be higher and catch the front of the saw. I am happy with my saw. My friend has the Makita and I would be happy with it also. I am not sure how the Festool can be much better. I like the DeWalt because the accessories are cheaper and can be also found on sale. Around Christmas you can usually find sales at Amazon, Lowes HD, etc. I have the router guide for the Dewalt but haven't used it yet. DeWalt accessories were hard to get when I bought mine a few years ago. I don't know if that has changed. I bought the angle guide, the clamps, right angle guide, and track bag, just in case they weren't available in the future. I haven't needed to use them so far.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Does the Dewalt tracksaw router guide only fit the Dewalt router?

[Ken Kortge]

I've never used the Eurekazone but I believe it doesn't allow you to use the guide strip effectively except at 90 degrees. The guide strip is on the cut line at 45 degrees with the track saws. Users report good cut quality but I've never gotten as good a cut from my circular saws as I get with my track saw, even with a fine tooth blade I think it pretty good.

The Eurekazone track has two top rails. One is for 90 degree cuts and the other is used for bevel cuts (non-90 degree cuts). I have not done bevel cuts myself, but on the Eurekazone forum those who do say that they typically remove the anti-chip edge from the cut side and remove the anti-chip insert from the saw base before making the bevel cut. They say that edge quality - splintering - is not really a problem with bevel cuts.

You cannot compare cut quality of the Eurekazone system with that of a regular circular saw blade. They are simply two different animals. Dino says that he gets the best cuts using a standard carbide tipped construction style circular saw blade. I myself only use that kind of blade - never have used a plywood blade. Using the Eurekazone base and rail with anti-chip insert and edge completely covers both sides of the kerf cut producing a very high quality cut edge on the top side. The cut on the bottom side is not an issue because the blade cuts from bottom to top on a circular saw. Table saws cut from top to bottom, which is why a zero clearance blade insert works well - if you use one. I suspect many don't.

To see the difference yourself go to youtube.com and search for a video by Eurekazone called "Eurekazone Smart Saw Base". It shows the cut quality with the anti-chip edge & base insert, with the off-track base insert, and without any of the anti-chip protection. It also shows the impact of the anti-kickback fin.

I think their recent videos - in the last year or so are pretty well produced and help explain how it works. Just go to youtube.com and search using "Eurekazone".

I should also mention that because you're using a circular saw with its integral blade guard (its function is unchanged with the Eurekazone base) there is no open blade spinning - unless you removed the guard -which you shouldn't do.

I'll also mention that with Eurekazone's Multiform Table the boards the wood rests on are sacrificial. You cut through them as you cut. At first I was worried I'd have to replace them too often, but so far mine have lasted a long time since each cut takes a different path.

[Kevin Woodhead]

+1. I did the same thing a couple of years back. Bought a Makita saw, tracks and clamps. Found Dewalt bag/case, protractor, right angle attachments on sale (they all fit the Makita). Built my own UHMW shoe to get splinter-free cuts on both upcut sides of the blade. Saved $$ and have a very good setup. I asked myself if I were buying a non-tracked circular saw, would I prefer Festool, Makita, or Dewalt. Festool is quite expensive with no visible reason for the price premium above the other two (unless one believes that a single brand "system" is valuable). Makita vs Dewalt? No question Makita makes better circular saws. I also like the track lock feature on the Makita. My Festool vacuum works fine with the Makita. If they all cost the same amount, I would buy the Festool because of the riving knife and would miss the Makita's track lock.

[ed vitanovec]

I had the Makita and really liked it. Was really quite and made me think it was under powered, but not so it cut like a charm. The track connectors I bought were for Festool and they fit perfectly. Mine was variable speed and thought that was a nice feature.

[Allan Speers]

I was not sure if (a) there was something in the design that kept the saw from going all the way down, and (b) how much of the 7 1/4" cutting depth was lost when the EZSmart base was added.

You lose about 7/8", because the track is very thick plus you have to add what is basically a second base to the saw. As Ken wrote, using a 8-1/4" Makita 5008MGA solves the problem of cutting 2X4's.

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As for bevel cuts, I agree that this is a small deficiency, sort of. You can make splinter-free cuts at both 90 and 45 degrees, but not anything in-between. I have no idea how other systems work with bevels, though it looks like the Festool might have a better setup for this. I also don't know if the Festool's on-saw anti chip thing would help when on a Eurekazone track. I've never tried it.

Having said that,

1: How often do you really cut other angles?

2: When you do, on the EZ system, you simply get the same cut as on a table saw. Not really a huge problem, though it IS a small factor to consider, I guess. I like "most" of the rest of my full Eurekazone system (including the deluxe EZ-ONE table) so much that this one small point doesn't bother me.

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Then again, I sometimes remember fondly using my old Unisaw. (Mostly when cutting hard, 8/4 stock.)

- Which brings up the really difficult question: Do you plan to expand whatever tracksaw you get to the full system that that company offers? The answer to this will make a huge difference as to which tracksaw you buy, and it's a VERY tough subject. I would say that having a router on the same track is a no-brainer. It won't completely replace a router table, nor a good free-hand setup, but what it does do, it does better than any other system.

I also would not want to work without my EZ miter guide. - Basically a T-square made out of a short piece of track, for super-fast 90-degree cuts.

After that it gets tricky. Do you REALLY ant to replace your table saw? I did. I get by, sometimes I even prefer the new safety, but sometimes.... (see above.)