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Thread: First Project - Live Edge Dining Table - Thanks, SMC

  1. #1

    First Project - Live Edge Dining Table - Thanks, SMC

    Just finished my first project. Edited this to add pics in addition to links (internet wasn't working well the first go-round), but had to post some pics in a second post due to certain SMC limits.

    It's a live edge dining table. We needed a table and didn't like what we saw out there. The wood is spalted maple purchased from Berkshire Products.
    3395a7-f (1).jpg https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing

    Dimensions as finished are 90" x 44-34-44" and 1 7/8" thick; just about 29 7/8” tall. It was 2 feet longer; I lopped that off for a related project. Legs are distressed steel that I coated with a Deft spray Lacquer to (hopefully) prevent or delay oxidation (and I may put a rough-hewn 4x4 in as a stretcher for aesthetics—no racking apparent, however). The aesthetic goal was to mix the rough of the live edge with the smooth of an even finish and the industrial feel of the steel. Links to general images as assembled and in the house: (1) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing (2) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing (3) with our soon-to-be replaced chairs for sizing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing and (4) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3OewcC540fkRW50WmdLakIzUGM/view?usp=sharing

    20151003_211251.jpg 20151003_210959.jpg

    20151003_211504.jpg 20151003_211751.jpg

    I placed the legs with a 17 inch overhang to let end chairs slide under (and I'm tall). So, 6 can sit comfortably daily; 8 with the legs a little in the way, but that's fine. Need chairs and maybe a bench for one side; I'll buy those. With special thanks to Kent Bathurst for this suggestion (and many, many others), I screwed the bases into the center of the slab and then used stainless steel mending braces (6”x3/4”) across the 3 inch wide bar on the top of the bases so that the mending braces are tight but can slide with lateral expansion of the wood (I have humidity changes here—humid summer and burn wood in the winter).

    20151004_180255.jpg

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing

    I filled cracks and checks with West Epoxy 105/207 (clear) and used a heat gun and, alternatingly, a card scraper and blade from a plane to scrape off the over-pour.

    20150528_221958.jpg

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing

    In a few spots, I used tape to build forms to maintain the natural shape of the edge where some spalting rot had deteriorated it. That worked well. For example, here I actually reattached a piece of the side that had fallen off after some spongy stuff was hollowed out an inch deep. [See next post for remaining pics due to limits on pics per post.] https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing Then, I sanded the wood with my ROS to 150 and then 180 by hand with the grain; next time I’ll probably sand it most of the way there first, or use some wax on the surrounding area, to reduce side-ways absorption. (Tape doesn’t really do much.) The bark sloughed off easily with some gentle prying with a chisel, but a couple of spots got soft and had to be filed and stabilized with products. The edge (unfinished): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing (but with a form added on the bottom). Had to work this edge a bit: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing

    I used P&L 30 Clear Gloss as my finish; anyone who wandered through the finishing forum may have seen my travails (and a hearty thanks here to those who responded to the posts or PMs). Orange peel, for example: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing Ended up using a Redtree brush and brushing on three coats (cut about 15ish% with MS) with some sanding back; wiped on 6 coats (cut 50% with MS) with the bus boy method. I then let the finish cure for a month or so and went at it with 3M's Trizact P2500, P3000, P5000 wet sanded with MS. Then I used 3M's Perfect It Step 1 compound (by hand, don't have a polisher). I used 3M's Perfect It Step 2 polish next but it left a slight haze so I went back to the Step 1 compound. The finish: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing and also https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing and also https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing

    Now that it is in the space and after all the effort at a gloss finish, I'm not sure I like the gloss on a dining table (looks odd to me) and may knock it down with some paper or Scotch Brite to more of a semi or satin. Maybe I’m just getting used to the table . . . My game plan from the get-go was to start with gloss thinking I could knock it back. I’d be curious to know what gloss level some of you customarily leave dining tables.
    Here's that gloss I mentioned: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing and https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing

    Critiques generally welcome (as are questions), and especially on the point of the gloss (which may diminish over time with use?).

    So, with that, let me also say thanks to SMC for being such a great resource and thanks for making it through this long post for those who were interested in the play-by-play.

    Andrew
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Andrew Helman; 10-05-2015 at 10:20 AM.

  2. #2
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    That's a great looking table, Andrew. (It would be a much better read if you ditched the links and inserted the pictures in your text.) I like the distressed steel/wood combo and the way you attached the legs to the top. Nice job.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Andrew, do you have a photo of the finished table ?

  4. #4
    Thanks, will revise now. My internet was being funky last night. Andrew

  5. #5
    Here are some remaining pics.

    Made a form with epoxy:
    20150725_003608.jpg

    Worked the edge to get firm wood (there was some sponginess due to spalting):
    20150617_223020.jpg

    Orange peel along the way:
    20150628_231807.jpg

    The finish:

    20150903_080238.jpg 20151001_071459.jpg 20150929_235209.jpg

    Finished project in the light of day--a little glossy for my taste. I welcome any thoughts on the best way to knock this down without leaving marks; I'm thinking a wet send reverse rub-out until I get "there." I'm curious to know where many people find "there" to be, and whether they go with the grain (I'm planning to).

    20151004_095938.jpg 20151004_102706.jpg

  6. #6
    Yonak, Pics, rather than just links, should be up and ready now. Sorry about that. I was having some internet issues last night. Thanks, Andrew

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    It looks great, Andrew. That's a beautiful tabletop.

  8. #8
    Thanks. It was all "finishing" and no carpentry. Total of three cuts for the whole thing, which is good because I don't have much in the way of carpentry skills. But this was interesting nonetheless. Part of the reason for the lengthy initial post was so that someone else tackling something similar some day can learn from my mistakes--I made plenty along the way.

  9. #9
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    to dull it try mirlon pad with wax. i cut the pad round to fit my sander add wax and polish it down, let wax dry/haze then buff off.

  10. #10
    David, does that leave squiggles or does the wax prevent that? Does the buffing completely remove the wax or is that then part of the maintenance drill going forward? Also, Mirka pads, are they any different from other synthetics like Scotch Brite. Thanks.

  11. #11
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    Very nice Andrew.

  12. #12
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    the mirka is similar synthetic as the other. not sure if the scotch brite has a grit rating like the others. i use the gray mirka (its ultra fine grade/1500 grit). the beige would probably be better. other make similar pads i.e.. 3M. buffing off the wax leaves a protective coating/layer of wax behind. i've not ever gone bad and re-waxed so won't worry to much about redoing it. there maybe squiggles but i've not really seen them as the surface is a rather matte when done.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonak Hawkins View Post
    It looks great, Andrew. That's a beautiful tabletop.
    Damn straight.

    Nicely done, Andrew.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  14. #14
    I wouldn't change a thing, I like it as is.
    Len

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Harrison Arkansas USA
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    279
    What a beautiful table, I would be proud to own it. Stunning

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