Look over my workbench plans please.

[Steven Pearson]

Hello Everyone,

I am new around here, and pretty new to woodworking. I have only done some basic 2x4 framed shelves, fish tank stands, and workbenches. I also put together a rather nice looking deck IMO a few months ago. The point is, I am not exactly sure what direction I want to go into now; but it definitely is a more complex direction. I need a bench I can use for just about anything!

I read a bunch of threads here about proper workbench creation. I took the advise to read "The Workbench Design Book" by Christopher Schwarz. I think I have a pretty good grasp on it. I wanted to simplify things down a bit though, and make it my own as well. I am on a considerable budget as well, so building this at rock bottom prices are a huge concern.

I got some inspiration from Stumpy Nubs as well.

The bench measures 96"x21"x34". The cutout you see to the right hand side is for a 10" Jorgensen Handscrew that will function as the end vise. I got the idea from HERE. Look at pdf pg 5 or book pg 64.

The benchtop will be made from 6 YP 4x4s. The legs are also made from YP 4x4s, and the braces from YP 2x4s.

There will be 3/4" dogholes drilled every 3" center to center, inline with both the face vise and end vise.

The face vise will be a very budget option, but it has great reviews. It is a cheap 6 1/2" iron clamp from HERE. I know I will want the quick release after a while, but I can always upgrade later if it is really that big of a deal. The center of the clamp is about 9 3/4" from the left. This number was just made so the dogholes would line up nicely with the other length of dogholes going the other direction.

The mortises (Is that the right word? I am brand new to all this after all, lol) mounting the legs to the benchtop will be 2.5"x2.5" and 2" tall. That should leave 1.5" of meat on the benchtop before planing which I think should be sufficient. Everything will be secured with a few 3" wood screws going through the sides into the mortises.

I am including a Sketchup illustration as well as a jpg for those who don't want to download and open it up. I had to upload as a zip because the file exceeded the max size allowed on the forum for the Sketchup file type.

Total cost (without glue and screws):
6 4x4x96 @ $7 each = $42
2 4x4x72 @ $6 each = $12
1 2x4x144 @ $5 each = $5
Jorgensen Clamp @ Home Depot = $10
Face clamp = $26
Total = $95!!!

Now feel free to shoot a bunch of holes through my designs! I need the input!

[Anthony Whitesell]

I would put a double set of holes at the left end.

[Mike Heidrick]

Are you jointing and planing the wood?
How straight and dry is your YP source?

[Charlie MacGregor]

I think I might consider moving the legs in away from the ends to lessen the middle span, unless there's a reason for having them right out to the end.

[Steven Pearson]

I would put a double set of holes at the left end.

Thank you. I missed that, and it makes complete sense.

Are you jointing and planing the wood?
How straight and dry is your YP source?

My YP is pretty dry and true. Not perfect by any means of course. I plan on storing it in my garage for a few weeks to dry it out a bit more. I am sure I will have my fair share of hand planing to do. What other alternatives do I have though other than buying a jointer and or planer (which I would love to have btw)?

I think I might consider moving the legs in away from the ends to lessen the middle span, unless there's a reason for having them right out to the end.

The reason I chose these in this position was based off one of Christopher Schwarz's core principles. Chapter 2, #8 states,

Try to keep all the surfaces of your bench in the same plane. And try to make them so simple that you can put a clamp on them anytime and any place.

I can lets say, clamp a board vertically over the side of the workbench and have it intersect with a board laying horizontally on the top of the bench. Please tell me if this does not seem like a sound train of thought.

[Steven Pearson]

I think I might consider moving the legs in away from the ends to lessen the middle span, unless there's a reason for having them right out to the end.

Also, you mention to lessen the middle span. Is this because of too much flexion?

If so could I rectify this by adding a middle leg in the rear?

[Charlie MacGregor]

Also, you mention to lessen the middle span. Is this because of too much flexion?

I don't know enough to say that it would cause a problem but it would concern me. Maybe one of the engineering types will chime in. The vertical clamping does look handy though.

[Robert Engel]

Few suggestions I have:

1. Definitely move the supports at about 2 feet from ends.
2. Instead of mortising legs put a in support bar to go across under top.
3. Glue up the 2x4's on end (looks like you have them side by side).
4. Put a long stretcher on the front.
5. Mortising the stretchers and braces in the center of the leg instead of a rabbet will be stronger.
6. You can drill and peg them for extra strength.
7. You will need a decent plane to finish off the top.

[Brian Tymchak]

Few suggestions I have:

1. Definitely move the supports at about 2 feet from ends.
2. Instead of mortising legs put a in support bar to go across under top.
3. Glue up the 2x4's on end (looks like you have them side by side).
4. Put a long stretcher on the front.
5. Mortising the stretchers and braces in the center of the leg instead of a rabbet will be stronger.
6. You can drill and peg them for extra strength.
7. You will need a decent plane to finish off the top.

Agree with Robert about adding a stretcher in the front. The base as designed is (IMO) going to rack with side-to-side motion ( like hand planing).

[mike mcilroy]

If you drawbore or even just pin the mortise and tenons and the lap joints with 2 pegs diagonally on each joint your racking issues should be minimal if not non existent.

[Val Kosmider]

If the top is 21" wide, and the feet are inside the top, that means you are talking something on the order of 17-18" wide at the feet. If I assume that "YP" stands for yellow pine, your bench is not going to be heavy, and with the narrow footprint, I wonder if it will be subject to tipping with the narrow stance? You can resolve this to a certain extent by shortening the legs and have them terminate in a traditional wide cross member which acts as the "feet".

[Jim Andrew]

I built a similar bench, but used mortise and tenon joints. Very solid.

[Larry Browning]

21" seems awfully narrow to me. I use my bench for all sorts of things, something that narrow to work on would be at best an inconvenience and at worst unusable. Making it 32" or even 36" would be a better choice for what I do. Plus, the extra width will add weight and stability, which are both very desirable attributes of a good workbench.

[Brett Luna]

The reason I chose these in this position was based off one of Christopher Schwarz's core principles. Chapter 2, #8 states...

At the risk of speaking for Charlie, he suggested that you move the legs farther in from the ends of the bench, not from the edges. Having your legs flush with the edge of the bench is fine, dandy, and commonly done. But I'm concerned about how close the leg mortises/notches are to the ends of the bench. Since it looks as though you've left a recess for some kind of end vise, I'd suggest moving the legs in at least far enough to clear that recess. That will allow you to bring the right front leg flush with the edge of the bench like the left leg and add a front stretcher, as well. It's hard to tell from an un-dimensioned drawing at that angle but you might have gone a little overboard with the dog holes along the edge. What's the spacing?