[OP]
Contributor
Hi, I have a new Keller Dovetail jig, I'd like to connect 2 boards end to end using dovetails. Does anyone have a "how to" do this? The manual that came with the jig kinda gives a sketchy "how to". But I need help. I'd appreciate any help.
Thanks................
Contributor
You would do "tails" on both pieces. Then tap them together with glue.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Member
A I understanding youcorrectly? you want to take 2 boards, end to end, and make it one long board? if so, you don't need a jig..just a router table..one board held vertically and the other on the table.
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[OP]
Contributor
Yes, I'd like to make one long board from two smaller ones, using a dovetail joint. I have a Keller Jig with the Keller dovetail bit, not sure if the bit would work on the router table.
Member
Like Mike said - tails on both pieces.[ATTACH=CONFIG]338011
Edit: Try the bit in the router table and see if it's long enough, you should make a test cut anyway. I would feel uncomfortable if the bit was less than 5/8" in the router collet though
Last edited by John Lankers; 05-24-2016 at 9:42 AM.
Guest
I've never tried this, but couldn't this be done in the jig? I could see height being a problem if the two boards are long, but other than that both pieces would be cut the same way? Like they were a drawer side?
I know I'd make them wide so you could rip them down after assembly.
Contributor
If I understand your intent, I don't think you can do it with the Keller jig. The spacings don't work out. The tip of the router bit is .44" wide. The tip of the tail is .84" wide. You need them to be equal, like the photo John posted.
Member
Hi,
Make a spacer exactly the width of the center to center tail spacing. I think it's 1 1/8" but double check. Clamp a stop block to the jig, rout the tails in your first piece, then without removing the stop block, place the spacer against it, and then clamp the second workpiece. Rout tails on it, and you should be golden. Pay attention to orientation. For what you want to do you will not need the straight bit, only the dovetail bit.
I like the Keller jig. I use it on the router table because I get better dust control that way, but you could clamp the workpiece in a vise and use it like the instructions show also. Hope this helps.
[OP]
Contributor
Hi Glen............
Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try later tonight after work.
Contributor
You could probably cut the dovetails by hand quicker than you could do the jig set up, especially on long boards. Once you have the tails cut on one board, lay the tails on the other board and trace them with a knife. Saw and chisel and you're there.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Contributor
Your best bet would be to perform this task with hand tools. You get some good practice cutting dovetails by hand and you should practice of some scrap first until you like the results.
In Memoriam
For strength? Or just to get a bunch of sticks together for a panel?
[OP]
Contributor
No, not for strength at all. I want to Finnish off the underside of a cabinet project. Thought it would be a nice touch, and use up some of the small pieces of cherry I have left over.
I may give the hand cut dovetail a try...............
In Memoriam
Lapped dovetail here at 90° .
Not a problem to do this in length.
Would give you strength and not use up too much material.
Member
Edward,
I found a few spare minutes and pulled out my Keller jig and realized the advice I gave you was wrong. You can clearly see from the backer block the wide dimension of the standard dovetail bit is 7/16 but the intervening "mating" dovetail left between each two cuts would be 3/4 at the wide end. So it would not be as easy as I thought to make an interlocking end to end joint. Like Jamie says above, they need to be equal for it to work easily like a box/finger joint.
However it appears that what you want to do can in fact be done with the Keller jig because there is a reference on the Keller website that talks about the ability to do end to end dovetails and even box joints with the jig. Unfortunately I can't lay my hands on the manual right now, so I'm not sure of the procedure the website is referencing. If the manual doesn't make it clear to you, then give Mr. Keller a call. In my experience he is very good about returning calls and will go out of his way to help woodworkers solve problems with his jig. One thing is for sure, he knows his jig better than anyone else.
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