Modern coffee table with inherent support/stability challenges

[Jakub Wegrzyn]

I would like to build a modern coffee table that looks like an open box on its side, a little something like this
lux-couchtisch-b.jpghigh-end-lux-coffee-table.jpg
I've toyed with the design in Sketchup and see some challenges, so I'd appreciate your advice. Perhaps this is why most coffee tables don't look like this...

I will be working with cherry wood, starting with 5/4 so can probably work it down to 3/4-1" thick. All four sides will have parallel grain, and if I'm lucky might even be from the same board, so I'm hoping to mitigate movement issues. Planning on leaving enough clearance around the drawer and mount the slides on elongated holes to allow movement across the grain

Things that I absolutely love about this table, i.e., almost non-negotiable

• Clean, light, see-through lines -- which means no *conspicuous* apron-like support under the base and table top to keep them stable/flat
  
  • On the top, I can run one ~2-3" wide apron-like board behind the drawer, i.e., towards the back of the table in the photos above. Is that grossly underestimating the need, though?
  • The legs are only ~1.5-2" tall. I could hypothetically run apron-type boards sufficiently far in that they wouldn't be visible to a person sitting on a couch, but would that width even do anything to help stability? Or do I not need to worry about that?
  
  
• No visible joinery -- Because of the point above, the rigidity needs to come from joints, so straightforward rabbets are out. Not interested in box joints or dovetails showing through, unless you convince me that it's the only way to do this without driving myself crazy
  
  • I can do a hidden/blind box joint by routing normal box joint "fingers" on a scrap piece of wood and then using it as a pattern with a pattern router bit. This would be a somewhat annoying amount of work. Could it also be an opportunity to cut corners with some pocket screws or the like?
  • Any suggestions on an easier alternative on the bottom, where the underside of the table will not be visible?
  
  
• Beveled edges that make it look light and airy, despite the thickness needed to keep it stable
  
  • I'm thinking I could do this with a table saw and a jig that holds the surface in place vertically, like a tenon jig. Is that a terrible idea? Is a hand plane the way to go?
  • The corners become a geometry problem which I'd like to think I can solve with a router, or at least have solved on paper and in Sketchup
  
  

Did I miss any other critical elements? Thank in advance

[Jamie Buxton]

Clean, light, see-through lines -- which means no *conspicuous* apron-like support under the base and table top to keep them stable/flat
The ends of the cabinet will keep the top and bottom from cupping. So don't worry too much about this.

No visible joinery -- Because of the point above, the rigidity needs to come from joints, so straightforward rabbets are out. Not interested in box joints or dovetails showing through, unless you convince me that it's the only way to do this without driving myself crazy
Dowels. Don't laugh; Krenov used them a lot. I use them in this sort of case construction, when I don't want the joinery to show. Folks may scoff at the strength of dowel joinery, but if you have a dowel every 2-3 inches along the length of that joint, there's lots of strength there. I made a jig that looks like the usual shelf-pin jig. If you're willing to use 1/4" dowels, you can buy a commercial shelf-pin jig.


Beveled edges that make it look light and airy, despite the thickness needed to keep it stable
Hand plane. Easy-peasy. Don't overthink this.

[Robert Engel]

IMO it may look appealing, but a poor design for a table.

It will be prone to bowing because no apron. You would have to use slab material 2" or more thick to avoid it.
If you miter the joints you will need to spline them or pin with dowels.

For this reason also, the drawers will probably give you problems binding at some point.

You need to incorporate some kind of support in the middle at least, something like a 2x4 material, maybe have smaller drawers or no drawers at all.

[Wayne Lomman]

Jakob, what are the approximate overall dimensions? Cheers

[Malcolm McLeod]

See thru - Place a single apron/stretcher board under the center of top board. Make it the same height as the drawer depth. This will go a long way towards fighting racking forces, but be nearly invisible.

No visible joinery - Use mitered (blind) dovetails:


Beveled edges - I'd probably use a router, but YMMV. If top/bottom/side panels all have same edge bevel, then geometry should not be an issue.

[Jakub Wegrzyn]

Jakob, what are the approximate overall dimensions? Cheers

Roughly 40" x 24" x 12"

Dowels. Don't laugh; Krenov used them a lot. I use them in this sort of case construction, when I don't want the joinery to show. Folks may scoff at the strength of dowel joinery, but if you have a dowel every 2-3 inches along the length of that joint, there's lots of strength there. I made a jig that looks like the usual shelf-pin jig. If you're willing to use 1/4" dowels, you can buy a commercial shelf-pin jig.

I can't believe I hadn't thought of that. I found this handy jig that will work perfectly here: https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/...g-and-accurate

See thru - Place a single apron/stretcher board under the center of top board. Make it the same height as the drawer depth. This will go a long way towards fighting racking forces, but be nearly invisible.

No visible joinery - Use mitered (blind) dovetails

Got it, will do the single apron/stretcher behind the drawer

Was initially thinking blind box joint because it's easier to streamline with a pattern and router. 8 linear feet of blind dovetails (x2 surfaces) would be a lot of chiseling! I'm pretty set on the thin edge overlap like in the image below, rather than miter. If I can make it work, dowels seem like a lot less work
csm_team7-lux-couchtisch-handwerk_b6491f4189.jpg

[Wayne Lomman]

Looks like you have it sorted. I would only say keep the thickness close to 1" and use the bevel to retain the slender look. Cheers