Laser engraving light density wood (and end grain)

[Mohammed Issa]

Hey guys,

I've been doing a lot of testing trying to find the best way to engrave light woods (like ash) with a good contrast. I have a client who makes ash cutting boards/cheese boards. Although I engrave them for him, I'm not happy with the result. The contrast is not enough. You need to look closely in order to be able to read the text.

I might be crazy, but I think I read one time of a material that can be sprayed/layed on the wood that will help in the contrast of the engraving. Something similar to Thermark that is used on metals.

Any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[Keith Winter]

I would suggest searching and reading the forum this has been discussed dozens of times, as recently as the past month.

[Mike Null]

Mohammed

the product you're looking for is here.

http://php.jdsindustries.com/JDS_SIT...CH&D1ID=SEARCH

[Bert Kemp]

Try dropping your table an 1/8th inch out of focus this should darken the engraving

[Mohammed Issa]

Thanks Mike. I will see if I can find some here in Canada. I appreciate the link.

[Mohammed Issa]

Bert, I tried doing that. I even tried going much more than that. It doesn't seem to do much difference. Maybe the wood is just not dense enough to burn good.

[Gary Hair]

Lowering the bed and running slow/low power will help. Fast speed/high power will tend to ablate the wood where low/slow will char it. Failing that, fill the lettering with black powder coat paint and laser low/slow/out of focus and melt it in place - works like a charm!

[Tony Lenkic]

Mohammed,

Tromart Awards is JDS rep for Canada. Check if they stock that product.

[Mohammed Issa]

Thank you for your suggestion Gary. Just so I am clear, this means I will have to laser once, fill in with power paint while the piece is in the bed, then engrave again?
Also, what kind of powder paint do you use?

Thanks again!

[Gary Hair]

Yes, that's how I do it. I got mine at Harbor Freight.

[Bert Kemp]

did you also increase power? what wood r u using I forgot. Hard Maple makes a good cutting board and it engrave dark, Beech also will work and engrave dark. Ash is hard but the grain is not tight like maple or beach and won't darken as much when engraved. Least thats what I find.

Bert, I tried doing that. I even tried going much more than that. It doesn't seem to do much difference. Maybe the wood is just not dense enough to burn good.

[David Somers]

Hey everyone!

Since we are talking about cutting boards is powder coat paint appropriate? Although the paint will be hardened by the second laser run wouldn't it have a tendency to be affected by the knives that are being used on the board? Cuts, chips, etc? Mind you, I haven't tried powder coat on a cutting board. I am just guessing.

As a wood turner who makes utility bowls and plates along with other things, I have always found that for use with food, any finish that applies a shell to the wood is bad, while things that soak into the wood are fine. For example, a plate turned from wood like Maple can last a life time and actually become an heirloom if it is finished with an oil finish that soaks into the wood and perhaps cures in the wood. Is the finish wearing a bit? Perhaps the wood is looking dry? Reapply the finish with a rag. Or apply stablized walnut oil or even mineral oil and it will look great again. The owner of the plate can do that themselves without fuss and the piece will last for ages with minimal care. But a plate that gets a surface finish like varnish, shellac, lacquer, urethane, etc, wont hold up worth a darn. Over time exposed to foods and with repeated washing the shell surface finish will develop micro cracks and food and water will enter it and discolor the wood, and support bacterial growth. You get black and gray stains developing in the wood UNDER the finish. You cant clean it off without stripping off the finish, resanding it and refinishing it. Most folks wont do that and will toss the plate. I would think the hardened powder coat paint would do the same thing?

Any thoughts?

PS....using a surface finish on wood is fine when it is not exposed to repeated washing. Basically the piece is for display, or for use with "dry foods" like fruit and nuts and chips. Much like you would deal with outdoor wood furniture. You would not put a varnished/urathaned chair and put it out in the weather without expecting to have to strip and refinish it every few years. Or like the teak on the rails and gunnel caps on our boat. They are varnished and need to be maintained each year or stripped and refinished every few years due to weathering. If they are oiled they simply get cleaned and reoiled every few years.

[Bert Kemp]

I was just reading about finishing bare wood with a mixture of 3/4 cup granola oil and 1/4 cup vinegar. Seem that wood be fine to eat off also.Cheap to make too

Hey everyone!

Since we are talking about cutting boards is powder coat paint appropriate? Although the paint will be hardened by the second laser run wouldn't it have a tendency to be affected by the knives that are being used on the board? Cuts, chips, etc? Mind you, I haven't tried powder coat on a cutting board. I am just guessing.

As a wood turner who makes utility bowls and plates along with other things, I have always found that for use with food, any finish that applies a shell to the wood is bad, while things that soak into the wood are fine. For example, a plate turned from wood like Maple can last a life time and actually become an heirloom if it is finished with an oil finish that soaks into the wood and perhaps cures in the wood. Is the finish wearing a bit? Perhaps the wood is looking dry? Reapply the finish with a rag. Or apply stablized walnut oil or even mineral oil and it will look great again. The owner of the plate can do that themselves without fuss and the piece will last for ages with minimal care. But a plate that gets a surface finish like varnish, shellac, lacquer, urethane, etc, wont hold up worth a darn. Over time exposed to foods and with repeated washing the shell surface finish will develop micro cracks and food and water will enter it and discolor the wood, and support bacterial growth. You get black and gray stains developing in the wood UNDER the finish. You cant clean it off without stripping off the finish, resanding it and refinishing it. Most folks wont do that and will toss the plate. I would think the hardened powder coat paint would do the same thing?

Any thoughts?

PS....using a surface finish on wood is fine when it is not exposed to repeated washing. Basically the piece is for display, or for use with "dry foods" like fruit and nuts and chips. Much like you would deal with outdoor wood furniture. You would not put a varnished/urathaned chair and put it out in the weather without expecting to have to strip and refinish it every few years. Or like the teak on the rails and gunnel caps on our boat. They are varnished and need to be maintained each year or stripped and refinished every few years due to weathering. If they are oiled they simply get cleaned and reoiled every few years.

[Mike Null]

Mineral oil works very well and won't turn rancid.

[Brian Lamb]

They sell "Walnut Oil" as a food safe wipe on finish. I have used it for years and it's nice in that you can just re-coat after washings and such.