Rikon 10-342, damage, & Circle Saw

[Dale Murray]

.

I solved the dust problem on mine. I can describe it later if you are interested.

Care to share your dust collection solution?
So far all I have done is plumbed a line from the front collection port that ties in to the bottom collection port via a radiused Y connector.

I had been contemplating something like Rob Cosmans solution or putting some sort of shielding between the between the bottom of the top and the frame.

[John K Jordan]

Care to share your dust collection solution?
So far all I have done is plumbed a line from the front collection port that ties in to the bottom collection port via a radiused Y connector.
I had been contemplating something like Rob Cosmans solution or putting some sort of shielding between the between the bottom of the top and the frame.

I'm sure others have done similar things but I haven't seen any.

I use a 5-hp ClearVue cyclone which moves a lot of air. The duct to the bandsaw is over 40' from the cyclone. I bring a 6" duct down close the table and put the blast gate there. I split the 6" into three 4" lines. Since the Rikon has two dust collection ports, I run one 4" PVC duct to each port. I get essentially no dust collecting in the lower cabinet with either stringy green or powdery dry.

For above the table I use a short length of stay-put flex which stays where I put it with a strong magnet fastened to the lip with a screw. The magnet is about an inch in diameter had has a center hole for a bolt. When making "skimming" cuts I position this to the right of the blade where it catches most of what would otherwise get sprayed onto the table. For cross cuts the magnet holds it nicely out of the way flush with the right edge of the table.

BTW, the opening in this extra flex hose is a great place do dump handfuls of small pieces of wood say from trimming the ends of turning blanks!

After all that, I still got a lot of dust on the floor at my feet - it came from the open area below the table containing the lower guides, just above where the blade disappears into the lower cabinet. For this I made a temporary shroud from corrugated cardboard, cut and bent to fit snugly around the right side of the guides, around the front, and a little around the left. (I made a template first with a piece of paper. I hold this onto the bottom of the table and the top of the lower cabinet with some round 1/2" magnets 1/8" thick.

This lets the angled port at the top of the lower cabinet pull air down from around the guides and keeps dust from being thrown on the floor. I was surprised at how well it works. Since it is open at the back and most of the left side, the air flows from there and across the blade, sucking up most of what comes down in the blade gullets.

I intended to use the cardboard prototype to make a more permanent one from thin clear plastic but so far I haven't bothered - this has worked fine for about 4 years now. I do have to remove it when changing the blade or to adjust the lower guides but it comes off and goes back on in seconds. It also can't be used when tilting the table but I don't tilt - for an angle I make a tilted aux table from plywood stuck to the top of the cast iron table with 2-sided tape.

bandsaw_shroud_2_IMG_20161101_102544_683.jpg bandsaw_shroud1_IMG_20161101_102828_050.jpg

JKJ

[Robert Engel]

The 10-342 saw I bought was wired for 240V.