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Thread: Resaw cutoff position?

  1. #1
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    Resaw cutoff position?

    I'm going to be trying a bandsaw box, and will start by slicing about a quarter inch off the back of a laminated block of sapele.

    What's the conventional wisdom, put the cutoff piece to the right of the blade, or left of the blade between the blade and the fence? I've seen it done both ways in videos, and I've tried it both ways practicing on scrap. Any rule of thumb, other than keep your thumb out of the way?

  2. #2
    Veneer cut outbound of the blade to eliminate cumulative errors from the sawn face. That way your jointed face is against the fence ar all times.

  3. #3
    Nick,

    Cutoff piece to the right of the blade, the opposite side from the fence. This is mandatory on a table saw and I just carried it over to the BS. I don't have any other rationale, but Mark's makes sense.

    Doug

  4. #4
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    Thanks, fellas. Mark, I hadn't thought of the "cumulative" aspect, right you are.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    Veneer cut outbound of the blade to eliminate cumulative errors from the sawn face. That way your jointed face is against the fence ar all times.
    Veneer cut between the fence and blade. Veneer thickness and uniformity is consistent this way and the fence never has to be moved. The only time I go back to the jointer is if the donor board starts to cup.

  6. #6
    Veneer cut between the fence and blade. Veneer thickness and uniformity is consistent this way and the fence never has to be moved. The only time I go back to the jointer is if the donor board starts to cup.
    This is my method also. I keep this setup on my big band saw and do the curved cuts on my small saw - fence stays put.

  7. #7
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    While I like the idea of not having to move the fence for every cut, I think my technique and set-up abilities need to improve before I go that route. I've had mixed luck with veneer. Sometimes I surprise myself with how good it comes out, other times I'm left scratching my head.

  8. #8
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    The small piece should be between the fence and the blade..............Regards, Rod.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    Veneer cut outbound of the blade to eliminate cumulative errors from the sawn face. That way your jointed face is against the fence ar all times.
    Maybe I'm missing something, but, I have no idea what that statement means. Please elaborate for me.

    Me... I cut with the "good" piece between the fence and blade.
    “Never attribute to malice that which can be explained by stupidity”

  10. #10
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    For safety reasons, I let the cut off fall away from the blade. You do not want the cut off launched like missile which can happen if it is
    trapped against the fence.

  11. #11
    Everyone has their own technique and processing after the veneer is sawn. In my experience, unless you saw oversize and then sand your veneers flat, you build cumulative error with each subsequent pass when you register the sawn face against the fence (set the fence a fixed distance from the blade, and keep sawing off veneer slices). Each pass through, the blade or the work, is going to leave a less than perfectly flat result. A few pieces, or running them all through the widebelt/drum after to calibrate them and that really doesnt matter. But if you are able to advance the fence you are always going to have a perfectly jointed reference face against the fence giving you the best possible cut.

    If your blade drifts at all registering the sawn face against the fence you leave a hump/dip in the veneer and sawn face. The next pass, that is compounded. On an on. Whenever we have taken a piece of thick material, say 6/4 or 8/4, and just start slabbing off veneer slices with the fence fixed, the veneers degrade very quickly across the thickness of the piece. Again, no biggie if your sending them all through the sander after. But when advancing the fence, they stay consistent throughout the entire sawing process and if the blade/saw is on the money you get to skip the sander.

    Just my experience. Do what works for you.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    For safety reasons, I let the cut off fall away from the blade. You do not want the cut off launched like missile which can happen if it is
    trapped against the fence.
    True with a table saw.

  13. #13
    I'm confused. I thought the OP was about making a band sawn box not about sawing veneer.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Bradley Gray View Post
    I'm confused. I thought the OP was about making a band sawn box not about sawing veneer.
    Now thats a good catch

  15. #15
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    Bradley, you're correct. I am interested in veneer also, though. I guess what I'm looking for is whether one way is better than the other, insofar as the overall quality of the cut.

    At this point in my bandsaw experience, there are plenty of other variables to get under control as well.

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