Back-cut?

[Byron Trantham]

I have been playing around with preparing drawer fronts with a tapered edge and ridge. I tilted the blade about 15 degrees and raised it about 1/2" above the table top. The result is great BUT the resulting ridge is back-cut which is expected since the blade is tilted. Any idea how work around the back-cut? I want the edge of the ridge to be perpendicular. I tried sanding ti but that is too unpredictable. I was going try and run it through the blade but I figure that too is hard to control. After all, the ridge is only about 1/6" high and any pressure variance would be be seen in the result. Any ideas?

[Jim Becker]

Byron...I'm having trouble visualizing what you are doing...can you whip out the camera and illustrate things graphically?

[Paul Held]

Byron, If what you want to do is to put a bevel on the edge of your drawer fronts with your table saw, but have the edge of the cut leave a perpendicular cut to the face of the drawer. I woud actually cut the edge first with the blade at 90 degrees, You will only need to score the surface as deep as you want the bevel. The bevel cut would then intersect your first cut. Paul

[Byron Trantham]

Byron...I'm having trouble visualizing what you are doing...can you whip out the camera and illustrate things graphically?

Jim, I tired but I couldn't get the detail needed. I figured it out though. Imagine running a panel vertically through the blade tipped at about 15 degrees. Norm does this to make raised panel doors. The little ridge is cut back because of the angle of the blade. What I did was put the blade back to 90 degrees, and raised it ever so slightly until it squared up the ridge edge. I figured doing this would be unpredictable but it worked fine. thanks.

[Byron Trantham]

Byron, If what you want to do is to put a bevel on the edge of your drawer fronts with your table saw, but have the edge of the cut leave a perpendicular cut to the face of the drawer. I woud actually cut the edge first with the blade at 90 degrees, You will only need to score the surface as deep as you want the bevel. The bevel cut would then intersect your first cut. Paul

Paul, that is exactly what I ended up doing except I cut the bevel first and then squared up the ridge. It actually worked pretty well. Once I got the first pass set up I just blindly did the remaining three sides to see what would happen and much to my surprise it worked and you can't see the last cut! FWIT, I'm trying to match some existing drawer fronts for kitchen drawers. I think this technique will work fine. Thanks for your input.

[Michael Ballent]

What about a rabbet plane... A few strokes and you should be good to go