Do we all 'HAVE' to have the ideal latest/greatest tool?

[Prashun Patel]

Usually you get what you pay for. Better tools are expensive for a reason. Rehabbed tools require some expertise and effort which is also a cost.

That has never meant that if you can’t afford the best violin you can’t make great music. This is an extrapolation that nobody ever intends.

[Stan Calow]

The best tool to buy is not the most expensive (even if it performs the best), its the best value for you. That is, you have to judge how much you're going to use it and for what, to determine whether it is worth it to you. People are not very good about judging value. I am just a homeowner/hobbyist, who started out with inherited low end tools, gradually replacing them as they failed. I have some good quality hand tools, and some mid-range power tools, many bought at garage/estate sales. I know that Festool tools, for example, always perform great, but I know I won't use them enough to justify the expense. So I have a Craftsman cordless drill because it was on sale cheap, a used Freud biscuit joiner instead of a Domino, and a crappy table saw instead of a Unisaw, because I know I wont put in a lot of hours on it. No $200 coping saws either.

[Frederick Skelly]

The best tool to buy is not the most expensive (even if it performs the best), its the best value for you. That is, you have to judge how much you're going to use it and for what, to determine whether it is worth it to you. ....... No $200 coping saws either.

This is a really important point. I don't think I'd get enough use from the Festool Router Table I slobber over to make it worth the money - to me.

I did buy that $125 fret saw though. But I did that after trying a couple cheaper tools, tuning them per the blogs and videos, and still not getting what I needed from them. For me, that dog gone KC fretsaw was worth every dime.

[Terry Therneau]

I grew up on a dairy farm. We didn't have fancy tools, but when you bought a wrench you made sure it was a good one (Craftsman in those long ago days), doing otherwise didn't make sense. My own rule was to buy a tool when I needed it, driven mostly by repairing my home and autos. I didn't take up woodworking until my kids were grown. I started with a Delta tilting table saw and some bar clamps. I thought of it as "make do" until a brother-in-law pointed out that I had gotten a better machine than the current big-box contractor saw and pointed me to the OWWM site. I've since enjoyed acquisition and use of older stuff, a 15 year ramp up to: 1947 Unisaw and scroll saw, 1920s Yates 6" jointer and 12" Solem planer, Walker-Turner 14" band saw, Moak 26" bandsaw, Delwat radial arm, Delta HD shaper, and lots of smaller stuff. I'm not against new: have an Inca router lift, DowelMax, and a Domino for instance. In the last year I sold my Solem planer and bought a 16" MM Jointer/planer; the Solem was hell for stout and did a great job, but I hated changing the knives, to the point that dull blades didn't do a good job. My main output is furniture for spouse and kids, and giving it to them is what is most fun.

I am a used equipment fan, since I could never have purchased all these machines otherwise. (The MM cost about equals the sum of all the others). Rehab was mostly just new bearings, which for me is also kind of fun. But that wouldn't be enjoyable to everyone. Do what brings you joy. I do have a nice dust system, but that was used too ($850 for a 5HP Oneida + 200 feet of pipe) + a used 15 HP VFD from craiglist ($50). Again, not everyone's cup of tea to set up.

My only other comment is to be aware of safety. Some of the new stuff is safer, and that may be worth a premium. I am likely to shift to a slider one day for only that reason: hands to close to a spinning blade makes me nervous.

Terry T.

[Ron Citerone]

I think you are in some ways right and some ways wrong. You need to consider the context of the thread. If the Original Poster is asking about setting up a professional shop then the answers tend to lean toward more expensive solutions. There are people in every hobby that have lots of money or will even borrow lots of money to have the "best" product out there. If they are fortunate to have that kind of cash and want to spend it that way, it's there choice.

Where I think you are wrong is people always suggest craig's list here for tools, machines, and lumber too. Also if someone asked how to tune up an old plane or chisel or power tool they would get tons of help that would be low dollar solutions from people who want to help,and understand that a lot ot people, especially young people are watching every penny.

This is a good forum and if you word your post so that people know you are watching your finances, you will get the answers you need. IMHO

[Mike Cutler]

Where I think you are wrong is people always suggest craig's list here for tools, machines, and lumber too. Also if someone asked how to tune up an old plane or chisel or power tool they would get tons of help that would be low dollar solutions from people who want to help,and understand that a lot ot people, especially young people are watching every penny.

This is a good forum and if you word your post so that people know you are watching your finances, you will get the answers you need. IMHO

Ron
I'm guilty of suggesting CL for machines, not so much tools, and I should qualify that suggestion more.
If you have the mechanical aptitude and the requisite tools, a person can buy some amazing "vintage iron", or higher end machines that need some level of refurbishment. If a person does not, don't buy them. It's a waste of their time and money, unless they want to learn.
More what I am suggesting is newer machines that can still be purchased. Machines that are still supported. For every machine on sale currently in a Home Depot, or Lowes, there are a 1/2dozen of the same for sale used. It's a good way to "test the waters" so to speak.

[michael langman]

The nice thing about SMC and other sites on the web is the diversity in the people who frequent these sites. Thus we are taught many different perspectives on how to accomplish the task at hand. In the end we are all different individuals with different ideas and backgrounds, and only we can determine what is and is not important to us in what we do, and how we do it.

[Charles P. Wright]

I think it should totally depend on your budget and commitment. One thing that I think is true is that quantity is a quality all of it's own. Having the right tool for the job helps, even if it isn't the best in class.

I started off woodworking after I bought a house about 12 years ago. The first home project I did with a bench top table saw borrowed from my father. I did that once, and then upgraded to a Ridgid contractor saw. I added a bunch of fairly inexpensive hobby level tools (craftsman router, table, 9" benchtop bandsaw, 1 hp bagged dust collector, 5" dewalt ROS etc.). I was lucky in that I was able to get a few of my tools like a DW735 and Ridgid 6" jointer when Home Depot was clearing out their floor models; which allowed me to have a fairly complete shop without a huge investment. I didn't really use the jointer for about a year or two after I bought it [I was committed to the hobby at that point], because I was still buying mostly surfaced lumber; but when I built my kitchen it was hugely important to have the jointer and planer available to surface the lumber; now I use mostly rough lumber.

I've now got a Sawstop 3HP, MM16, and FS41; and a bunch of quality portable tools. I would never suggest someone buys a $7000 1000lb. piece of equipment for a hobby they are just starting out in, but at this point it is what is right for me.

[Jim Riseborough]

It all goes around. I just sharpened up a older off brand plane and its cuts as good as my Lie Nielson for the most part.

I would love to have a Festool Domino tool, but settled on the Jessem dowel jig. So far its working fine. in the end it will provide the same connection really.

[Edwin Santos]

Very good topic. A few random thoughts provoked by your post (these are the thoughts that go through my head when I start feeling influenced by the gear talk you're describing):

Pick your aspiration. Do you intend to be a woodworker or a tool acquirer, or both? Even the best tools don't come with skills built in. So if one's goal is to become a woodworker, assembling a shop full of tools does not automatically make them one.

The greatest woodworking masters were not known for their particular tools, they were known for their skills. Maloof, Krenov, Nakashima, Esherick were not remembered for the brand of table saw or band saw they owned.

Buy the best tools you can afford, but keep them in pace with your budget, your skills, and your intentions. A well made, well designed, high quality tool will be a pleasure to use and generally accelerate your woodworking. A low quality tool will generally become some form of obstacle, usually surmountable, but still a test of patience. Your time is a valuable factor to consider too.

I try to picture an equilateral triangle. One side is my budget, one side is my tools, one side is my skills. I am always trying to keep them equal. For the person genuinely interested in the craft of woodworking, I am a big proponent of education, even weekend workshops. In my experience, I have always left with more skills then when I arrived. In fact in some ways my existing tools became new to me because I had learned new ways to unlock their potential.
For myself, looking at 2019 and my own triangle, I think I'm going to lay off on tool purchasing for a while and try to focus more on projects, skills, and technique development.

It's way easier to spend money and buy tools than to actually become a talented woodworker. The latter takes time, patience, effort and practice. The former usually requires just pressing a button. As human beings we're all wired to take the path of least resistance. Something to be aware of.

Beware of listening to a group of race car drivers talking about high performance race cars. Before long you can find yourself longing for a race car when it's never going to see a track, because you mainly commute to work and maybe drive to the local store and back.
If you're in the racing business, that's a different story. If you're planning on undertaking a career in racing, that's a different story too. And if you're just interested in being part of a racing tribe, then that's yet a third story.

Lastly, it's your money. If a particular splurge tool gives you pleasure, even if its a stretch to justify it, I say go for it. That was my excuse to myself when I bought a Lamello biscuit joiner.....

So in summary, there's no right or wrong answer to the topic you've raised. I just think it's good to have one's eyes open and make your decisions accordingly. If you're asking advice from others on the forum, it's a good idea to be specific about context and goals, so the advice you get back is somewhat tailored to your situation.

[Ron Citerone]

Very good topic. A few random thoughts provoked by your post (these are the thoughts that go through my head when I start feeling influenced by the gear talk you're describing):

I try to picture an equilateral triangle. One side is my budget, one side is my tools, one side is my skills. I am always trying to keep them equal. For the person genuinely interested in the craft of woodworking, I am a big proponent of education, even weekend workshops. In my experience, I have always left with more skills then when I arrived. In fact in some ways my existing tools became new to me because I had learned new ways to unlock their potential. "

Yes! And for those on a tight budget there is so much information that is available for free (internet) or almost free (used books on line). I bought a block plane as one of my first tools 40 years ago and used it occasionaly. 10 years ago I learned how to "Properly" tune and sharpen one and it opened up a whole new confidence and respect for the use of one. I use it way more now.

[Jim Becker]

My thoughts. Most of this is how I've approached this since my first early purchases that ultimately cost me a lot more than the initial cost:

• Buying tools optimally needs to be treated like an investment..."trading" adds cost and "cheap tools" most often end up costing more than buying quality the first time. That doesn't mean someone has to buy high-end. It does mean "do your research" and buy the best you can afford for the work you anticipate you will be doing plus a little more
• There is merit in choosing a good used machine when you can get "more machine" and have the time and willingness to recondition it if necessary to bring it back to like-new performance
• There is no such thing as "too much tool"...within reason. More capacity and capability isn't a liability. Not enough capacity and capability makes you spend more money sooner than you might prefer. That's not to say you should use a Sherman Tank to mow your lawn! Be realistic and keep in mind that you can easily make small things with larger tools but it can be very difficult to make large things efficiently and safely with small tools
• Your tool choices should fit and support your workflow preferences for the projects you like to make or anticipate you will like to make
• Mobility and flexibility is your friend when you are not endowed with huge expanses of space and it helps alleviate the contention between buying small things instead of what you really want/need to do the job well and safely
• Along the same lines...be open minded. There are tool choices today that didn't exist in the same way a decade ago. Examples: Track Saws, joinery systems like Domino, J/P combos with bigger capacities in compact space, etc. Maybe something "less traditional" will work better for you "instead" of the same-old-same-old
• There's nothing wrong with "one time" inexpensive tool choices if you truly feel it's not something you're going to use long-term
• It often makes sense to buy less expensive tooling (bits/blades) initially and then replace individual items with "the good stuff" once you determine what you really use often. But don't buy huge sets of things. Keep it targeted so you don't have a lot of things that just sit around, take up space and never get used. Stick with "basic" assortments of anything you buy as assortments
• Don't compromise and buy something of lesser quality or capability when you know you need something better or more capable...it's better to wait an extra month or three to acquire more funds to get what you really want and need than to buy something that will not actually meet your ongoing needs
• Take advantage of sales and other formats of discounts when you can. Almost all of my big machines had "show discounts" or other incentives which reduced my cost in a meaningful way. This does take planning and patience, but it's very much in line with the previous bullet, too

Nowhere here did I say that you have to have the latest/greatest gear. It all boils down to making informed choices that don't cost you money multiple times. It doesn't matter if this is an avocation or a vocation, either...the same applies across the board. There's a reason that my signature has featured a particular statement for many years now...and it started with experience.

[Van Huskey]

The greatest woodworking masters were not known for their particular tools, they were known for their skills. Maloof, Krenov, Nakashima, Esherick were not remembered for the brand of table saw or band saw they owned.

Ha, that depends on how twisted you are. One of the first things that comes to my mind when someone mentions Maloof is him standing in front of an Agazzani bandsaw roughing out chair parts...

[Rod Sheridan]

Ha, that depends on how twisted you are. One of the first things that comes to my mind when someone mentions Maloof is him standing in front of an Agazzani bandsaw roughing out chair parts...

My FIL is a retired cabinetmaker who served his apprenticeship in England.

While we dismiss the requirement for high quality tools to perform good work, it actually was a requirement of his apprenticeship . A minimum base of tools were specified by the company, and you paid for them through pay deductions. John often spoke of the fact that that a large portion of his wages went to hand tool purchases while he was an apprentice.

I had a friend who apprenticed with RR industrial and he stated the same thing. Bill also described sitting in the kitchen of the boarding house cutting out shadow box liners for his tool cabinet with a coping saw, and then lining the cutouts with RR blue felt. His tool cabinet was inspected on a routine basis by his supervisor as his apprenticeship progressed. The required tools had to be there, neat and clean.

We now have excellent planes that cost less than a days wages, John paid for hand planes, squares, saws etc that cost more than a days wage.

At work I often hire contractors, you can tell a lot about a worker by his tools, and his attitude towards them. If they come in carrying all their rusty tools in a jumble in a 20 litre pail, that's often a good indication of the quality of work I'll receive from them. The guys that show up with organized tools, well cared for, usually have higher work output than the guy who can't find what he's looking for.

Now as hobbyists we can sit around and make furniture with an old rusty spoon if we wish, however I have this overly romantic attachment to nice tools, and enjoy using them much more than HF stuff. Do I need a sliding saw/shaper at home? Nope, however the capacity and capability make my shop time more enjoyable, productive and safer than struggling with other items.

I've always bought expensive enough tools that I don't have to replace them often, for work or at home. I don't have enough disposable income to buy cheap tools.

That said, I've started a handful of neighbourhood kids over the years on the woodworking journey making a bench hook with a hand plane and backsaw, exactly the way I started 50 odd years ago. They get to keep the bench hook, and if they're really keen I buy them a backsaw..........A few have continued to use the shop and learn, and I've learned a lot from them.

It's a journey that's more pleasurable with nice tools............Rod.

[Edwin Santos]

That has never meant that if you can’t afford the best violin you can’t make great music.

And in the alternative, even if you buy the very best violin, it will not guarantee that you can make or play great music or any music for that matter.