Apparently Lie-Nielsen no longer offers panel saws. What quality saws are recommended as a replacement?
[OP]
Contributor
Apparently Lie-Nielsen no longer offers panel saws. What quality saws are recommended as a replacement?
Member
I am following to see what comes up. I have a saw vise and with current pricing I will probably do the ebay thing and pick a older saw that needs some attention.
Contributor
Bad Axe makes a panel saw patterned after the Disston D-8. Twice the price of LN. I don’t have one, but I do have their sash and tenon saws. Good saws, but I have a few old Disston backsaws that I reach for just as often. I would search for pre-1928 Disstons or Simonds and rehab them if needed. Likely an equally if not better saw at a fraction of the cost. Fellow Creeker Mike Allen1010 occasionally posts some in the classifieds or contact him directly. I believe he will also rehab your saw if you can’t, as will Pete Taran.
Last edited by Stephen Rosenthal; 03-03-2022 at 2:45 PM. Reason: Correct typos
Contributor
Disston used to make a D-8 as a panel saw....happen to have a couple....so do Atkins.
The Tool Crib, D-8 panels saws.JPG
These are my Disston Panel saws, both are 10 ppi....one is 18" long, the "newer" one is 20"
A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use
Contributor
If you are looking for new, as said above Bad Axe makes panel saws and Lee Valley carries Pax panel saws.
All the major manufacturers such as Disston, Atkins, Simonds, etc. all made panels saw in the 20-24 inch range. Unfortunately, all of mine are packed away pending this summer's move, so no pictures.
There is a nice Simonds #71, 10 point, 20", on eBay, asking $75. It looks like it is in good condition, ready to work and the seller is reputable.
There is a very pretty Richardson Brothers #12, 24" eBay but the price is getting up there for a used saw in my book.
Good luck.
Contributor
I’ve been happy with the Pax saws I have. The handles aren’t as fancy as the lie Nielsen or other small companies, but work fine for me. The rip saw came with a really heavy set and pulled to one side. After I stoned the teeth it cut straight and after a couple times sharpening it the set is good.
Member
Can't say anything about them yet but these popped up in Amazon search for something else:Originally Posted by Steve Mathews
https://smile.amazon.com/Spear-Jacks.../dp/B0043YN9BQ
They list a 22 inch 10ppi and a 24 inch 7 ppi
Appear to have "universal" teeth but unhardened tooth line and a handle that begs for customization. Quick browse doesn't say much about taper grinding.
At about $30 each I'm tempted to get one next time the Amazon Points build up and give it a try.
Obviously not going to be Bad Axe level stuff here. I bought a similar saw branded as "Great Neck" some time back and reworked the teeth from a universal (bulldog?) pattern to a crosscut and it gets used to break down stock or tossed in the trunk to break down stock when buying lumber. Works fine and was about the same $30. It is slightly taper ground, not much but apparently enough. Handle was of similar chunky shape but other than cleaning off the varnish I didn't do anything else to it.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.
Member
I admit that I have a saw problem. Way too many saws almost entirely old pre-1940 Disston, currently designing a saw till for the keepers. I will share some findings on panel saws.
I have two of Disston ¨second tier¨ panel saws. 9 PPI and 10 PPI RIP. one is a 20 inch American Boy, the other is a 22 inch Keystone Pacemaker K3. These were a cheaper line of Disstons.
I also have a 22 inch D-8 Disston 10 PPI Crosscut.
The above saws will do the job but none of them have the characteristic Disston double taper. Just flat blades. They were sold cheaper than the premium line #12, a really good saw.
I have three #12 panel saws, 22 1/4 inch 12 PPI crosscut, 20 1/4 inch ripcut, 18 inch 11PPI rip. the first is a full width blade, the other two like ship (lighter) blades.
Given the finer teeth these are meant for lighter, smoother sawing. All are double taper and the improvement is noticeable. So far I have only used them in softwood. Filing varies: 15 degree rake and 20 degree fleam for the crosscut, 3 degrees rake and 0 fleam for the crosscut. The 18 inch I made a toolbox saw 5 degree rake and 10 degree fleam.
I do not intend to use these where my longer and coarser tooth saws are more efficient but these will cut anything albeit smoother and slower. I tried one on a 4x4 crosscut and it did a fine job but took a minute and a half to finish.
Short story is yes Disston #12 are plentiful and a pleasure to uuse, almost mandatory in thinner wood. Hopefully the sawyer has learned proper sawing technique because the light weight saws may not survive heavy muscle. I learned mine from Youtube. Stay away from post 1940 when quality declined.
Hope this is helpful to those considering panel saws.
Last edited by Louis Lampe; 03-04-2022 at 4:44 PM.
[OP]
Contributor
A recent Rob Cosman video on saws reminded me I still haven't obtained a good crosscut or rip panel saw. Apparently, Rob will soon sell his own line of panel saws. Do you think they will match the quality of the Bad Axe saws or older saws of yesterday. Is there anything new in the offerings besides what's mentioned above.
Contributor
Panel saw ...vs..full sized saws
Old No. 7, Panel saw #8 or #7 .JPG
Shorter the saw, the more strokes it takes...
A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use
Contributor
You might look at the Japanese saws.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Contributor
Is your heart set on a new saw?
Depending on your plans and other aspects of your situation one saw will not likely be enough. Do you already have any joinery saws, bandsaw or a table saw?
Your profile doesn't show your location. You may be close to another member who is willing to help you find a decent saw in the local antique, second hand or used tool stores.
If you are willing to take a little time to learn about sharpening saws you can build up a good selection of saws for a bargain price.
Even if you buy new saws, they will need sharpening eventually.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
I agree with the most of the rest of the others. I still see old Disston D8s at flea markets and yard sales. I pick them up when I can get them cheap. I don't know much about the ages of such saws, but mine have several different etches, I'll have to look them up. One of their 10pt, 24-inch crosscuts is one of my favorites. I'm sorry to hear LN isn't making them any more. I have both and I do like them, but they aren't any better (in my opinion) than a old D8. Very pretty, and I do like the thin saw plate, but there's nothing magic to them.
Of course, filing any saw is going to be necessary, so if you need to learn to do that it's best to seek out some older saws and practice on them before you take your files to your $300+ saws from LN, Bad Axe, or whoever. Once you learn to file well, it's amazing how well a $3 saw from a bucket in a yard sale will cut.
DC
[OP]
Contributor
Jim and David, both excellent questions and comments. You might say my situation with hand saws may fit what happened to me when building up a collection of hand planes. I started off with some vintage Stanleys and restored them. They worked well but after trying a new Lie Nielsen 5-1/2 soon replaced all of the vintage stuff with new and never looked back. I don't know if this will be the case with hand saws. I have some older saws collected at the same time as the Stanley hand planes but haven't used them much primarily because the need hasn't come up. I have a somewhat large collection of stationary equipment; SawStop ICS, 16" and 24" bandsaws, 12" Northfield jointer, 24" planer, etc but I can see myself gravitating more toward hand tools in the future. The power stuff does the work more quickly but I don't need to do anything quickly and sometimes slowing the process down seems to bring greater satisfaction. I found this out while hand carving some spoons and building small boxes. The only exception to this is in woodturning. I thoroughly enjoy using my Oneway 2436 and I would like to add to that another lathe, hopefully a smaller Vicmarc. Back to hand saws ... I do have a few new hand saws; LN tenon,crosscut back saws, dovetail saw and Rob Cosman dovetail saws. I would like to add to that some panel saws, new or vintage. The concern with the vintage approach may again mimic what happened with hand planes. Besides I don't know what to look for in an older saw.
Apparently the new Rob Cosman saws do not have a taper to them like the Bad Axe saws and what I understand about the Disston D8. Is this an important consideration?
And BTW, I'm located in NW Arizona.
Contributor
I really don't like panel saws for anything. Too short for handsaw use, and too long to take the place of a backsaw. Whatever you get, make sure it has a tapered blade. I don't care how fancy one looks, or how sharp the teeth are, without the plate taper, they're aggravating to use because you need too much set to be able to steer it in the cut.
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