Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Window framing between rafters

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    New Hampster, USA
    Posts
    146

    Window framing between rafters

    Cabin windows.jpg

    How would you frame the rough triangular openings in this photo for windows? More specifically, how would you support the nailers on the long sides given that they do not align with the rafters. A standing seam roof is already on so additional rafters can't be attached by nailing through the roof sheathing. Additional rafters could be sistered to the existing rafters but not directly because the gap to the window opening is so big. I thought to use blocking but am not sure the connection will be strong enough.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Mid West and North East USA
    Posts
    3,069
    Blog Entries
    3
    Crosswise blocking to nail a top plate to would be a common approach. It might not look the best in this good looking situation. Sistering a two-by laying flat to a rafter would also create a spot to attach a top plate. It might need to be a 2X6 or 2X8. I would put in a top and bottom plate and fit studs in-between with the window opening between the studs . I helped on a log home where the window rough in's were "bucks", a full box frame built on the ground then inserted into the log opening. They were 2x8's and/or 2x10's
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 10-13-2022 at 3:23 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
    Posts
    4,680
    I'd suggest the bucks, like Maurice mentioned. Gives you the opportunity to build to a specific window size and build from the bucks to the building. Guarantee that the two sides are not the same dimensions, so you will want a way to deal with the discrepancies and get matching windows. Bucks are perfect for that.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    New Hampster, USA
    Posts
    146
    Thanks very much guys. The log home style definitely complicates things. Still trying to figure out how to install the cabinets. Also wondering about flooring for the loft. The log guy cut out 1.5" slots in the logs for floor and subfloor. The owner wants a single layer T&G floor in the loft. I don't have the tooling to mill 1.5" flooring or a flooring nailer that would handle it. I assume it will have to be 1.5" T&G decking and driving the nails home by hand.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,228
    Use screws.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    New Hampster, USA
    Posts
    146
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Use screws.
    I suggested countersunk and plugged screws but he wasn't having it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Mid West and North East USA
    Posts
    3,069
    Blog Entries
    3
    I have mentioned Dick Proenneke's Alone In The Wilderness several times. The full length video is on DVD. There are some shorts on YouTube. If I remember correctly he shows construction of his doors and windows.


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Holmes Anderson View Post
    …The owner wants a single layer T&G floor in the loft. I don't have the tooling to mill 1.5" flooring or a flooring nailer that would handle it. I assume it will have to be 1.5" T&G decking and driving the nails home by hand.
    You might ask at a log/timber frame company. Our timber frame house uses 2x6 T&G both under the roofing and for all ceilings (acting as sub flooring to support pine flooring on the second level). When adding a sunroom we purchased all the materials and fasteners from a local timber frame company. I suspect they would have useful advice for your design.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •