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Thread: Bandsaw blade for brazilian rosewood

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    midwest
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    290
    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weber View Post
    There are too many variables to factor to know what happened on the original failed cuts.
    TPI, spacing, height, rake angle, tension feed rate/pressure and so on, not to mention the saw setup.
    Forget what failed before and start fresh.
    In my experience, many tropical hardwoods cut more like soft metals (aluminium & brass) than wood. Just something to consider.
    Agree. I think I will get an appropriate blade, set it up on my saw, and cautiously have at it. About the only thing I can think of close to the hardness of this wood is some Ipe I resawed a couple times, and I had no problem at all.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weber View Post

    Forget what failed before and start fresh.
    In my experience, many tropical hardwoods cut more like soft metals (aluminium & brass) than wood. Just something to consider.

    My experience: I have cut many, many tropical hardwoods on my two shop bandsaws with several different blade types (including expensive carbide blades), a variety of species, and a variety of conditions such as resawing and otherwise cutting very thick wood, wet and dry, Brazilian and other rosewoods and some much harder and far more dense such as lignum vitae, ipe, and african blackwood.

    All cut easily, some required cutting slower than others. I’ve never imagined comparing any of them to cutting aluminum or brass, which I also have experience with. To break off or otherwise damage bandsaw teeth is not something i’ve ever had the misfortune of doing (besides the time I cut into an embedded railroad spike on the Woodmizer or cut through rocks embedded in manzanita root burls.)

    It would be easy to just forget what happened to the first people and move on but I think it might be kind to give them some ideas so they might find and correct the problem.. Something was definitely wrong.

    BYW, I have more manzanita root burls if someone nearby wants to try their hand at cutting rocks. The stuff (without rocks) turns and finishes beautifully!

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Central MA
    Posts
    1,592
    Erik had it right in the first reply; Lenox Trimaster. It's the blade made for cutting some of the hardest, most difficult to cut metals, it laughs at wood. Rated to cut titanium alloys, rosewood doesn't stand a chance...

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    My experience: I have cut many, many tropical hardwoods on my two shop bandsaws with several different blade types (including expensive carbide blades), a variety of species, and a variety of conditions such as resawing and otherwise cutting very thick wood, wet and dry, Brazilian and other rosewoods and some much harder and far more dense such as lignum vitae, ipe, and african blackwood.

    All cut easily, some required cutting slower than others. I’ve never imagined comparing any of them to cutting aluminum or brass, which I also have experience with. To break off or otherwise damage bandsaw teeth is not something i’ve ever had the misfortune of doing (besides the time I cut into an embedded railroad spike on the Woodmizer or cut through rocks embedded in manzanita root burls.)

    It would be easy to just forget what happened to the first people and move on but
    BYW, I have more manzanita root burls if someone nearby wants to try their hand at cutting rocks. The stuff (without rocks) turns and finishes beautifully!
    With tropical and more dense woods in general. You may want a lower tooth angle geometry, A blade with less hook, like a skip tooth geometry, is less aggressive and lends itself better to extremely hard woods and smaller (underpowered) saws. It also leaves a better finish.

    Every piece of wood is different and without knowing anything more than 14" Laguna and resaw king, we're left only guessing.
    Not everyone, including some woodworkers, can operate a bandsaw to its potential. It's also possible the 14" saw is simply underpowered for the task and an inexperienced operator had trouble cutting. Or it could be a million other scenarios. I won't continue to guess, only offer suggestions

    You said, "I think it might be kind to give them some ideas, so they might find and correct the problem, Something was definitely wrong."
    Yes, something or many things were incorrect, whether to tell them what the error/s were is entirely up to the OP, provided he indeed does make the cuts successfully himself.

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by John Lanciani View Post
    Erik had it right in the first reply; Lenox Trimaster. It's the blade made for cutting some of the hardest, most difficult to cut metals, it laughs at wood. Rated to cut titanium alloys, rosewood doesn't stand a chance...
    I own and still use a Trimaster as my go to resaw blade. As John stated, the Trimaster was a metal cutting blade that kind of got repurposed as a wood resaw blade. IIRC the Trimaster was/is the blade used by first responders portable bandsaws to cut apart badly mangled vehicles so passengers could be saved from the wreakage.

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