One of them certainly isn’t because I didn’t do anything to it. Was for comparison reference only.Originally Posted by Tom M King
On the one I’ve been working on, is the back bevel what I’m showing in my picture with the circle around it?
[OP]
Contributor
One of them certainly isn’t because I didn’t do anything to it. Was for comparison reference only.
On the one I’ve been working on, is the back bevel what I’m showing in my picture with the circle around it?
Contributor
Yes, but it's hard to tell from the picture which way it goes. The cutting edge is the intersection of the back and the bevel side. Both sides are important to have a good cutting edge.
Are these A2?
[OP]
Contributor
Yes. Per their website: “They are made of A2 Tool Steel, hardened to Rockwell 60-62, cryogenically treated and double tempered.”
Contributor
Greg,
Hold off. I just went through this the past week with the same chisels. I think that LN video is partly the culprit. Try to find one by David Barron. Technique does play a role. The first chisel I tried copying LN video took it out of flat. You can check flat with a sharpie and a few passes over a freshly flattened stone. And yes I did have to spend some time with the larger chisels.
Contributor
There's nothing wrong with starting with something more coarse than the 1000 grit to get to your initial flatness. The only downside is the time it takes to remove the deeper scratches with the finer grit. FLAT STONE FLAT CHISEL BACK
Contributor
Here's the video I was thinking of:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WtLVBr4Glk
I know you don't have to do the whole back, only the first inch, but I've been doing them the whole way because I can and I don't have much shop time so this is something I can do in the kitchen. I'll do 20-30 full length strokes back and forth with the back fully on, rotate the stone 180 and do another 20 or so. Light pressure, barely any, just to keep it flat. Then I re-flatten the stone. It's tedious and takes a while. I don't leave the 1000 Shapton until I'm satisfied and it can take up to 15 minutes on the larger chisels (less stone area vs chisel size). The smaller chisels go quite fast.
You spot check occasionally by drawing sharpie on the back of the chisel, and drag it across the newly flattened stone 2-3x. It clearly shows where the stone is not touching.
Hope this helps. I just did 8 of them this past week.
Matt
Contributor
J.A.S.T. again.....I'll go pop the popcorn....Butter and salt?
A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use
Contributor
Greg, the simplest explanation is that you have not removed all the wire. Stropping should do this.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Contributor
Here's what mine look like when I'm done with them on the 1000 Shapton.
Contributor
no one watch the Jonathan Katz Moses video on sharpening? It’s only a few days old. he seems to have done extensive testing. could be worth a watch.
Contributor
I did watch. It seemed like a lot of fluff not a lot of raw data like I was expecting. Didn't like that he messed up David Charlesworth's name.
But there were some good takeaways. Suman's video seemed better presented.
[OP]
Contributor
OKay, so I spent another 2+ hours on it. This time, I started with the 1” chisel that was pictured earlier, and I worked the back flattening starting with my 400 grit atoma plate. Then moved to the 1000 shapton, then 5000 shapton and 8000 shapton. I got what I think is a flat back for about 2/3 of the back starting at the blade end. It will slice paper after sharpening, but it still hangs up. Upon some magnified viewing, I’m seeing a little bump that I can’t feel on the bottom at the tip of the blade. Is this a bur or something else?
F5D8BE7B-A4CE-49E4-B2D4-0FB5F575B4FF.jpg
Contributor
If you encounter resistance by lightly running the tip of your fingernail along the edge you either have a burr remaining or there is a nick. The former can be removed by stropping or similarly running the blade back and forth along on a piece of hardwood, keeping the back of the blade flat on the board or course. Harder steels have more stubborn burrs. If it's a nick you'll have to grind it out making edge straight. If the nick isn't too deep you can probably just recreate a secondary bevel and tertiary bevel if you wish. That's my take on it for what it's worth.
Contributor
^ THIS ^
I had this issue early in my sharpening journey on both chisels and plane irons. I addressed it by swiping the cutting edge through some soft end grain (pine in my case) in order to dislodge the wire burr, then stropping both sides to polish and remaining irregularities in the edge. I gleaned this tip from an old Fine Woodworking Magazine article by Brian Boggs. It really works well.
Screenshot 2023-04-12 063408.jpg
Sharp solves all manner of problems.
Member
Hi Greg. Sorry to hear you've been having difficulty.
If you haven't resolved this yet I recommend sticking with a coarser stone for a while. #1000 grit is plenty fine enough.
Make absolutely sure there is no burr.
If a new chisel takes much more than two minutes to be working the tool is defective, the method is defective or both.
https://youtu.be/6X02pCINfIg I'm not saying you should copy the above. But the chisels are as crappy as you'll get and I had no issues with them.
It is beyond me why such an expensive chisel should need so much prep.
Posting Permissions
