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Thread: Any stair builders out there? (acceptable slope on an interior stair tread)

  1. #16
    Just use a level from heel of the cut and raise your riser to the level, and depending on what your using for treads you might not need any shim at all a 1/16" gap for a few inches under most tread materiel will never be a problem.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachary Hoyt View Post
    Could you just trim the top surface at each step so it was level? You'd only lose the 1/16" or whatever and should still be well within the acceptable stair height variability range. It seems like that would be maybe easier than shimming, and less prone to squeaking than if you only have a shim at the front.
    Or, you could place one shim under the bottom of your stingers such that the horizontal surfaces are level and let the risers be slightly out of plumb. No one will ever notice that the risers are tipped 1/8"
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 09-02-2023 at 10:01 PM.
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  3. #18
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    I’ve framed a quite a few staircases. I’m not sure that slope would even register to anyone walking up or down the steps, but maybe I’m incorrect. One thing I know is that I’ve never once had a building inspector throw a level on the tread, but they will check for consistent riser height every single time.

  4. #19
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    I don’t know what is considered acceptable or standard, but the stairs in my house all have a slight dip in the middle of the treads (water would pool in the center) probably because they were glued up and then bowed slightly. I gotta think the stairs are going to move a bit over time so not sure I would worry about being out 1/16.
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  5. #20
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    I've used plastic shims in a lot of projects over the years. You can buy them in different configurations but ones like this would probably work well for your application.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  6. #21
    This was a collaboration between me and a woodworker. I did the metal forging, and he did the wood. He said he tilted the treads about a 1/16 inch for comfort.

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  7. #22
    Lawrence that’s a beautiful piece !

  8. #23
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    Shims
    I have found that vinyl siding works great for shims. When I sided my garage, I cut up a few scrap pieces of vinyl and have used them many times for shims.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Cameron Wood View Post
    Paper drywall shims, tar paper (#15 and #30), cereal box type cardboard, strips cut from plastic containers, edge banding tape, door skin plywood, masking tape, beer can as mentioned.

    You don't need to shim the whole tread, just the front and a spot in the middle.
    I ended up finding micro thin birch plywood in the hobby section of the local hardware store... didn't know such a thing existed... 1/32" and 1/64" thick. Thanks for the ideas... it is amazing how the upper connection shimming multiplies 4x on the height.

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by John Pendery View Post
    I’ve framed a quite a few staircases. I’m not sure that slope would even register to anyone walking up or down the steps, but maybe I’m incorrect. One thing I know is that I’ve never once had a building inspector throw a level on the tread, but they will check for consistent riser height every single time.
    Thanks - I was less concerned about the inspector than the exposed edge of the treads that were to project beyond the drywall in the stairwell over the lower flight.

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