Just use a level from heel of the cut and raise your riser to the level, and depending on what your using for treads you might not need any shim at all a 1/16" gap for a few inches under most tread materiel will never be a problem.
Just use a level from heel of the cut and raise your riser to the level, and depending on what your using for treads you might not need any shim at all a 1/16" gap for a few inches under most tread materiel will never be a problem.
Last edited by Lee Schierer; 09-02-2023 at 10:01 PM.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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I’ve framed a quite a few staircases. I’m not sure that slope would even register to anyone walking up or down the steps, but maybe I’m incorrect. One thing I know is that I’ve never once had a building inspector throw a level on the tread, but they will check for consistent riser height every single time.
I don’t know what is considered acceptable or standard, but the stairs in my house all have a slight dip in the middle of the treads (water would pool in the center) probably because they were glued up and then bowed slightly. I gotta think the stairs are going to move a bit over time so not sure I would worry about being out 1/16.
There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry
I've used plastic shims in a lot of projects over the years. You can buy them in different configurations but ones like this would probably work well for your application.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This was a collaboration between me and a woodworker. I did the metal forging, and he did the wood. He said he tilted the treads about a 1/16 inch for comfort.
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Kindness Every Day......All Day
Lawrence that’s a beautiful piece !
Shims
I have found that vinyl siding works great for shims. When I sided my garage, I cut up a few scrap pieces of vinyl and have used them many times for shims.