Time for a New Table Saw Blade?

[Jim Becker]

Chris, the WW-II is available in a "flat bottom" grind, but the normal version does indeed leave some scoring at the edges of the kerf. It's a trade-off...the scoring by the high angles is what helps provide the really great cross cutting edge quality. Different blades from different manufacturers will often have less scoring. Anyone who frequently uses their "normal" blade on the saw to do grooving, especially wider ones or for splines where more of a flat bottom is desirable should take that into consideration. For wider cuts, they can certainly be cleaned up with a router plane or an electric router...which is fine for infrequent situations...but if you do that a lot, use a blade with a raker to clear things flat or a dado set that's designed for flat bottoms. (Forrest's Dado King also scores at the edge)

[Michael Burnside]

As Jim points out, if you really want a flat groove, then you need a blade for that intended purpose. I have the Ridge Carbide TS2000 Flat Top Box Joint blade. Some woodworkers really dig their heels in when changing a blade, which may be why the "comob" blade is so popular, but it takes less than 90 seconds. The aforementioned FT blade leaves a very smooth surface and I highly recommend using it (or another brand's equivalent) if a flat bottom is required.

This is what I have/use from Ridge Carbide

• 10" X 24 STR +20 .087 / .125" HEAVY DUTY TS2000 SUPER RIP SAW - all rips on any fine furniture builds (ply/hardwood)
• 10 X 80 ATB +5 HK .087 / .125" TS2000 - all cross cuts on fine furniture builds (ply/hardwood)
• 10" X 40T STR +15 HK .094 / .125" TS2000 FLAT TOP BOX JOINT BLADE - aforementioned blade for cutting flat-top grooves/dados/rebates
• 10" X 48T 25 ATB +20 HK .062 / .093" TS2000 ULTRA COMBO BLADE - when the project doesn't matter or specific material (shop projects, plexiglass, HDPE, MDF, outdoor projects, etc.)

[John Kananis]

I'm also a huge fan of ridge Carbide - the ts2000 lives mostly in my saw. Awesome, friendly and responsive company and their blades are at least as good as forrest, which I also own. I have much more ridge though, including the super dado and their track saw blade in my dewalt (unreal improvement).

I'll add that their service and sharpening are second to none. They rehabbed a blade for me that was badly water-damaged to like-new condition and even etched my name into it haha, nice touch.

[glenn bradley]

So maybe the answer is to buy a new blade AND send the old one out for sharpening.

Yep. I have two of many of my cutters for just this reason. Google yields a few sharpeners in your area. I would check the reviews and give one a try. Finding a local for such things is a real benefit IMHO. I have a 50 tooth 1/8" kerf "groover" for flat bottom work that needs a little better result than an FTG 24 tooth rip.

[Pat Germain]

Yep. I have two of many of my cutters for just this reason. Google yields a few sharpeners in your area. I would check the reviews and give one a try. Finding a local for such things is a real benefit IMHO. I have a 50 tooth 1/8" kerf "groover" for flat bottom work that needs a little better result than an FTG 24 tooth rip.

I'm not sure what you found on the Google search, but I searched I found places which sharpen only knives and Rick's Edge which is the shop no longer open to the public.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I'm not sure what you found on the Google search, but I searched I found places which sharpen only knives and Rick's Edge which is the shop no longer open to the public.

West Slope in Grand Junction is an overnight UPS delivery away.