Which Lenox Bandsaw Blade for Resawing?

[John TenEyck]

I have a 1" x 1.3 tpi CT on my 17 Grizzly. It cuts super well, and super fast. I use it for everything thicker than 2". My friend has a 3/4" x 2 tpi CT on his older MM16. It cuts fine but no smoother, just slower. I can't compare blade life because I cut 100X more through mine than he does, mostly slicing 8 - 12" wide veneer. With a tall resaw fence and feather board to hold the stock against it, it's pretty easy to stay within 0.010" top to bottom and end to end. That's more than good enough for my needs.

I buy mine at Spectrum Supply. As noted, they are cheaper than anyone else I've found. And, yes, it's a genuine Lennox blade and the welds are good (with one exception I had). I had trouble ordering from them the last time using a Chase Visa card. For whatever reason, Chase denied the transaction. Another card worked fine.

To the OP, you don't want a Woodslicer if you are going to cut dense woods like mesquite. Actually, if you compare them side by side you will only consider the Resaw King and CT in the future. The cut quality is great, they come in widths that will allow you to take advantage of the size/power of your saw, and they last a LOT longer. I sharpen my CT myself, so the cost is pretty low by the end of life. If that's something that sounds appealing, I should probably only consider the 1.3 tpi blade to make sharpening easier. FWIW, I see no reason to go wider than 1".

You might consider spending some time to get your saw to cut straight and parallel with the miter slot. Your comment about having a Driftmaster fence suggested that's been an issue. Resawing and veneer slicing are much easier when the blade cuts straight, with no drift.

Put 20 - 25 ksi on it and enjoy how well it cuts.

John

I wouldn't consider the Lennox Tri-Master for resawing. Besides the price, it has too many teeth for wide resaws and the gullets aren't very deep. It wasn't even designed to cut wood.