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Thread: Large wall cabinet advise

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Piercefield, NY
    Posts
    1,705
    I built a 4' wide 8' tall 15" deep cabinet in the kitchen here that sits on the floor. The shelf loading is not as much as if there were heavy dishes everywhere, but there are some heavy things. I used 1/2" maple plywood for the shelves and the ends, and used cherry lumber for the face frame. The cabinet has no back, but each shelf has about a 1x3 support running the full length and screwed into the wall studs behind the cabinet. The drywall acts as the back of the cabinet. It seems quite solid, and I have not had sag problems. I used screws, but not in a pocket setup. The shelves are through screwed from the ends and the face frame. The face frame screw heads are plugged, but the end screw heads are visible. It's not something a lot of people would like but it's good enough for me.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NH seacoast
    Posts
    324
    I have been making upper cabinets of the size you describe for 15 years without issue. Multiple boxes screwed together look like horse poop and are a waste of material. With all due respect to your wife, I think it is a little silly to be concerned about loosing 1.5 inches of storage in a 64" cabinet. Many reasons to change her thinking about this cabinet in terms of storage flexibility. Most important in that regard is shelf layout. With three separate compartments the shelving in each can be customized for different height items. Look at what she wants to store in the cabinet and bore shelf pin holes only where needed for shelves in each compartment. Center compartment could have two shelves for taller items while adjacent compartments may have three. Additional holes can always be drilled in the future if her preference were to change.
    As far as the build is concerned with an inset cabinet, without partitions where are the center door hinge mounting plates going to be fastened? The partitions will also make the cabinet much stronger. Definitely use 1/2" back. 3/4" is way overkill. We dont use prefinished plywood which allows the back to be glued and screwed to the box. Others cabinet makers can better guide you when using prefinished backs.
    Enjoy the build and good luck!

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Chouinard View Post
    We dont use prefinished plywood which allows the back to be glued and screwed to the box. Others cabinet makers can better guide you when using prefinished backs.
    Enjoy the build and good luck!
    I use Titebond Melamine glue to attach prefinished plywood.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NH seacoast
    Posts
    324
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Wrenn View Post
    I use Titebond Melamine glue to attach prefinished plywood.
    Thanks for that Bruce. Have you had any opportunities to test the strength of that bond?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Redmond, OR
    Posts
    622
    With all these great additions don't forget to factor in the cost of the 10 ton crane and cutting a hole in the roof to install this cabinet.

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