Moving 'START' button on Felder K700 saw

[Rick Potter]

Thanks for the replies. Some very helpful answers.

Michael, thanks for the video. It took me two tries to realize it was actually working, at first I thought it was a still pic. It explained it very well.

Now..where should I put the new buttons? Would a coiled wire hanging from the slider with buttons on the rear be best, or maybe something above the table? Has anyone done this? I searched you tube with no luck.

[Michael Schuch]

Thanks for the replies. Some very helpful answers.

Michael, thanks for the video. It took me two tries to realize it was actually working, at first I thought it was a still pic. It explained it very well.

Now..where should I put the new buttons? Would a coiled wire hanging from the slider with buttons on the rear be best, or maybe something above the table? Has anyone done this? I searched you tube with no luck.

Your welcome, I am glad it helped.

When you figure out where to put the remote start/stop let me know. I am just finishing up the restore on my slider and I already know that the factory start/stop location REALLY sucks!

[Bill Dufour]

Thanks for the replies. Some very helpful answers.


Now..where should I put the new buttons? .

Why not both?
Bill D

[Sebastien La Madeleine]

Hi Rick,

I did this modification on my Hammer K3. One word of caution, your Felder, if single phase, might require more than what was indicated by the previously posted diagram. I suggest checking the wiring diagram of your machine.

In the case of my Hammer machine, I needed 6 wires to go to the new start stop location.

2 wires for the stop button, 4 wires for the start button. The reason is that the start switch needs to be a DPST, two wires signal the contactor to turn on and 2 wires to put the start capacitor in circuit while you are holding the button. Finding the right switch was hard. I settled on these:
https://new.abb.com/products/1SFA611142R1102/mpd13-11g

With those push buttons you need to buy the right contact module and I was able to find the double on, single off button module.

Hope this helps you save some time and frustration.
Sébastien

[Rick Potter]

Thanks Sebastien,

Mine is single phase for sure. I should have mentioned that in my original post.

RP

[Travis Porter]

I have an external after the fact switch on my Felder. It came with it from the original owner. It has a decently long coil cord attached a high quality single gang plastic enclosure. There are a couple of magnets on it so I can move it along the track which I find pretty useful.

[Rick Potter]

Travis pretty much describes what I am trying to do. Again, mine is 220V single phase.

I opened the switch box, and it has four wires. One in, one out for each switch. The wires are 18 gage at most, and the switches are by Eaton, and made in Germany. I have been trying to remove the wires from the switches but am not sure how. It looks logical, but nothing happens when I try to pull them out, and I don't want to damage anything.

I have found a nice coiled 10' wire made for trailer hitches, on Amazon. It is 18 Gage four wire, but I am confused why I need six per Sebastien. I am going to try to test start the machine with a simple jumper wire first, then go from there.

Meanwhile, a few days ago, I found that the belt driving the scoring blade was broken. I rarely use it, and have no idea how long it's been that way. Of course I needed it to crosscut some prefinished plywood. Found a belt on Amazon, just need to order it.

[Michael Drew]

There are a few DIY threads at the FOG site for remote switches. It is more complicated than one might assume. The most innovated I saw, was where someone installed a wireless transmitter in a 3D printed holder at the end of the slider. I'd consider that option if I had the time and ingenuity to do myself..... Every time I use my Hammer slider I get angry at the idiotic switch location.

[Travis Porter]

Here is what mine looks like. My saw is 3 phase with industrial scoring, so I can’t help you with the wiring. I will check if there is anything in the felder survivors guide though.

Good luck.
100_0390 - Copy.jpg

[Nick Crivello]

Here is what mine looks like. My saw is 3 phase with industrial scoring, so I can’t help you with the wiring. I will check if there is anything in the felder survivors guide though.

Good luck.
100_0390 - Copy.jpg

Hey, that's my saw! Can you post how that was done on yours?

[Tom Bender]

My TS has a foot switch wired into the control circuit in the VFD. This circuit carries very low power but the big wire helps to position the switch. I really like the foot switch as I can start and stop without moving my hands. The white switch is off when the saw is not needed. BTW it is DPDT to reduce the risk of lightning getting to the VFD again.

VFD1.jpg

[Rick Potter]

Never would have thought of a foot switch Tom. I have decided mine will be like the pic from Travis, with the switch box attached to the rear of the slider.

My saw is a short slider, and the wire has to extend 5' to the rearmost position , and 2' to the forward position. I looked around and could not locate any nearby places to buy the parts, so I just ordered them from Amazon yesterday. Should be here within a week. I went ahead and got the switchbox with an emergency stop button plus the start and stop buttons. Meanwhile I will build a holder to attach it to the slider.

I will document how I do it, for future use.

To be continued...

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Tom, I’m curious why you have a stop and an e-stop button on your remote push button station?

Regards, Rod

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Rick, Felder and Hammer machines almost always need at least 5 conductors for start/stop if they’re single phase.

That’s because there are 2 start button contacts, one for the run contactor ( 3 conductors) and one for the start contactor, as well as 2 conductors for the stop button.

Regards, Rod.

[Lisa Starr]

My SC2C is 220 Volt, Single Phase. This is the list of parts used and a photo of the install.