Clampling to tablesaw top

[Michael Panis]

I've got a Jet 3HP cabinet saw. I'm wondering how (if?) people typically clamp jigs and things to the tablesaw top. I've got some of the featherboards that clamp into the mitre gauge slots, and they do a great job, but if the piece I'm cutting extends past the slot, I'd to clamp a featherboard directly to the table. The problem is that the bottom of the tablesaw wing isn't flat. This is presumedly designed so you can align the wings with the main table.

For now, I've been sticking blocks of wood underneath the table, but I'm wondering if there's a better way since the I invariablly drop the woodblock as I'm adjusting the jig.
Thanks,

---Mike

[Howard Acheson]

Use epoxy glue and glue some appropriately sized hardwood to the bottom of the wings to level them out. Makes it a lot easier to clamp things to.

[Allen Bookout]

I have the same problem and have never seen the question ask so I am glad that you brought it up. I had thought about the solution that Howard suggested but I hate to use epoxy as if you ever wanted to remove the blocks you would have to chisel them out and the epoxy would be there forever unless you really went to a lot of effort. You would also have to leave enough room to get to the bolts that hold the wing on for any future adjustment.

Standing by.

[Richard Niemiec]

I've been meaning to drill two holes in the side of the left wing of my unisaur to fix a board to it for this same purpose. The way I figure it, a couple of 1/4 inch holes won't matter much, and it is annoying when that board falls out.

rn

[Eddie Darby]

I had thought about the solution that Howard suggested but I hate to use epoxy as if you ever wanted to remove the blocks you would have to chisel them out and the epoxy would be there forever unless you really went to a lot of effort.

Try using a dab or two of silicone instead of epoxy, the stuff used around sinks and tubs will do. You just need the boards to hang around until the clamp is in place.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I had that same issue with my old TS. I solved it by drilling and tapping a pattern of four holes in the cast iron.
Life was way easier after I did that. I could clamp things to the table in all sorts of ways, & all were an improvement.

When I did that, I recall many people reacting with horror at the very idea of drilling the TS top - like it was sacred or something.
It made my life a lot easier and didn't pose one single negative - not one.

Now, with my slider, I have 4, factory made 12mm tapped holes in the cast iron top that I use with great frequency. I design jigs and fixtures to take advantage of this.

[glenn bradley]

Howard's got it but I use silicone rubber glue. I used to use the same approach on my DP till I built the table for it. Silicone stays put in some pretty extreme temperature swings BUT, can be pried off and cleans up pretty easy if you change your mind.

[Kent Fitzgerald]

Two thoughts:

1. Grip-Tite magnetic feather boards work very well. No need for clamping or drilling.

2. Since I installed a good splitter, I haven't felt the need to use featherboards much.

[Eddie Darby]

I guess you could also use magnet on boards underneath as well, just moving the board where it is needed.

[Mike Buelow]

If you have an old hard disk drive, you could use the actuator magnets within, countersink those into the wood of your jigs or clamping surfaces. These magnets sandwich the coil of the actuator (the little moving arm) and are EXTREMELY powerful. In fact they can pinch your skin if you aren't careful. There is a risk of scratching so do some experiments first-- as I'm sure you will.

Dive into your old computer or they have old beater HDDs at surplus stores.

[Paul Held]

I use Bessey Tradesman clamps to clamp stuff to my table saw. The adjustable pad fits right up into the insets on the bottom of the extension. Paul

[Michael Panis]

I use Bessey Tradesman clamps to clamp stuff to my table saw. The adjustable pad fits right up into the insets on the bottom of the extension. Paul

Doh! Of course. If the clamps are upside down, the adjustable side is long enough to reach under the saw top. Works fine! Thanks!

---Mike

[Jim Becker]

Ya...just did this yesterday...adjustable portion of the Tradesman up under the saw worked fine.

[Allen Bookout]

That is the way that I have done it in the past but I find that it is not very user friendly. As well as finding it more difficult to tighten the clamp you cannot always clamp right where you want to. I think that it will be worth the small effort to glue some wood under the wing to make a flat area to clamp to.