Some advice on whetstones/waterstones please?

[Mark Rios]

For the last 20+ years I've used a Japanese waterstone for finishing from "King". At least that's the name is on the end of the wood holder that it is attached to. I don't think it's a super fine, 8000 grit; I believe it's just a 2000 grit stone. It was originally about 7/16" to 1/2" thick, came attached (glued?) to a wooden block and it was tan to light tan in color (for those of you that know what the heck I'm talking about ).

Well, I broke it today. Should I get another 2000 grit Japanese waterstone to replace it or should I get something different, maybe made from a different material? I'll probably get an 8000 grit as well. Should I get a 4000 grit stone also so that that jump from a 2000 grit to an 8000 grit isn't too big?

Are there differences in brands?

I currently have 220 grit, 325 grit and a 600 grit DMT "stones" and a 1200 grit waterstone and, up until today, the 2000 grit waterstone.

I, and maybe some other folks not too familiar with waterstones, could use a little advice and information on this type of thing.

Thank you very much for your advice and information.

[Brian Hale]

Perhaps you should get a 4000/8000 combo and a 2000.

Brian

[Ken Werner]

Hi Mark,
I am delighted with my Norton 4K/8K. I used to have a 6K King [that got lost to a freezing experience,] and the difference is HUGE. It's pricey, but is worth it.
Ken

[Derek Cohen]

I will be the odd one out and say that I don't like combo waterstones as there is the constant issue of contamination.

If you have a 1200 King, then just get an 8000 King. That is a very reasonable jump if you hone microbevels rather than whole bevels.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Steve Wargo]

If you jump straight from a 1200 grit stone to an 8000 grit stone then you are not thoroughly removing the scratch pattern left by the courser grit. This means that you are not sharpening both efficiently and properly. There is a reason for the many grits of stones out there. Otherwise everyone would simply choose a 1000 grit stone and a 8000 grit stone. Just because the surface is shiney doesn't mean it's sharp. 8000 works for most as a good honing stone, but you need something in between the 1200 and 8000 stones. Hope this helps. Good luck.

[Mark Singer]

Steve, I agree something in the 5000 range and then 8000 should do it...My finest stone is 8000 ... and some guys go to around 15000...I don't think it helps much because after a few passes with a plane, you are back to 8000

If you jump straight from a 1200 grit stone to an 8000 grit stone then you are not thoroughly removing the scratch pattern left by the courser grit. This means that you are not sharpening both efficiently and properly. There is a reason for the many grits of stones out there. Otherwise everyone would simply choose a 1000 grit stone and a 8000 grit stone. Just because the surface is shiney doesn't mean it's sharp. 8000 works for most as a good honing stone, but you need something in between the 1200 and 8000 stones. Hope this helps. Good luck.

[Derek Cohen]

With respect Steve, the jump from 1200 to 8000 is good and clean. Please note that I specified "if you hone microbevels rather than whole bevels". The King 8000 cuts very fast and will remove ALL the scratches from a 1200. It will leave a smooth, polished edge.

The microbevel I am referring to is either the edge from a hollow grind or a secondary bevel on a flat grind. If you are going to hone an entire bevel - which is a lot of work and I cannot imagine why one would want to do so - then get something inbetween to help. Otherwise just go 1200 - 8000.

This is how I have done it for a long time. This is how Rob Cosman does it too, if you want another reference.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Steve Wargo]

There was an artical a few years back that showed microscopic images of bevels after progressing through the different grits. The 8000 grit stone did not, and would not, completely remove the scratch patterns left by the 1000 grit stone. Rob Cosman does wonderful work. Krenov too, and his sharpening theory was sharpen till the plane wouldn't work any more and then hit it with a stone. This doesn't mean that this is the proper way to sharpen. Sometimes there's talent to equate into things, and for those of us with little talent, we try to take all the extra factors out of the equation. I'd get a stone for in between the 1200 and 8000 grit stones, but that's just my opinion. Good luck, and I hope this helps.

[Brad Woods]

Derek,

You can add Chris Schwartz and David Charlesworth to the list of talented and experienced people who go strait from a 1200/2000 grit stone to the polishing stone. I just bought a 2000, 4000, & 8000 set of Nortons, and a x-course/course DMT stone. I've yet to put them to use, but the honing of a microbevel and skipping the 4000 grit stone has a lot of appeal and makes a lot of sense. I am thinking very seriously of returning my mid range stone and saving myself the $50 for something else. Chris Schwartz wrote a great article on this very subject in Woodworking Magazine, though I forget which issue. There have only been seven published, so it shouldn't be hard to find. It is the one with the shaker side table on the front.

Brad