Hi. I discovered this board last night, and have been exploring the threads now for at least 4 hours !!
I'd like to get some opinions and the benefit of all your collective experiences. I recently acquired a 12' x 16' prebuilt shed which I will use as a general purpose and woodworking workshop. There is a 36" standard door centered on one of the 12' ends. I'm considering building a workbench/countertop across the entire opposite end. The work surface dimensions will be 32" x 11' 5"
The quick/dirty way would be to just nail 12' 2x4s to the exposed studs on the sides and then screw plywood down to that.
However, I don't like a plywood benchtop because it tends to be soft and can flex. My latest idea for the bench top is to glue 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood (or 3/4" MDF or 1 of each) together, then edge band with some hardwood and then lay in 1/4" hardboard for the surface. I am centering an old metal tool drawer set underneath, so I can't put any supports dead center. But, I can support the top on the drawers' frame, which is 32.5" high. I don't want the finished surface higher than 36" because I am only 5' 8" and I also don't want it higher than my radial arm saw table, which is at 36". So I am limited to a top thickness of 3.5"
So, what are your opinions are in the areas of: 1. use MDF or not? (the shed is outdoors and I'm concerned with moisture absorption/swelling) 2. Use a torsion box? 2a. Minimum dimensions and material selection for internal stiffeners for torsion box? 3. Top surface materials? (i.e. melamine, hardboard, etc.) 4. Should I just build a freestanding bench instead? 5. Is it conceiveable/affordable to get a 12' piece of hardboard for the work surface? (For now, I am planning on having a seam.) 6. Will the top be ok just supported on the metal drawer frame, or should I add more support?
Here's a picture of the shed being delivered: PC182349 (Small).JPG
Thanks, Mark Feffer