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Thread: Help please! How do I fix this goof!

  1. #1

    Help please! How do I fix this goof!

    Hey all,

    I really goofed up.

    After this pretty complicated glue-up of some coopered panels, I realized that one of the clamping blocks dug into one of the already faired surface. It seems a bit deep to just sand away. I thought of maybe inlaying a dutchman, but I'm certainly open to suggestions.

    The panels
    PICT0400aw.jpg
    The goof
    PICT0399aw.jpg
    A bit hard to see, but the major damage is between inch 2 & 3.

    Please help!

    Thanks,
    -joe
    Illegitimi non carborundum

    "If you walk, just walk, if you sit, just sit, but whatever you do, don't wobble."
    -Zen Master Unmon

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    66,060
    Try a steam iron...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Kanasas City, MO
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    Help

    Once again, Jim said it right (and first).

  4. #4
    I'll add to Jim...wet it and then use the iron.
    Glenn Clabo
    Michigan

  5. #5
    It's a bit hard to see, but the damage is more then just a dent. The damage is splinters and crushed fibers. Some of the splinters actually had to be peeled away to where the depth in need of repair is between 1/16 and 3/32. Will an iron raise the wood enough to then sand smooth?
    Illegitimi non carborundum

    "If you walk, just walk, if you sit, just sit, but whatever you do, don't wobble."
    -Zen Master Unmon

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    CLICK --> http://www.sawmillcreek.org/donate.php

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, MI
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    2,924
    I have had good luck raising dents that deep but nothing to fix a cut or broken fiber.

    You won't be out by trying it first and seeing what you get. If the iron doesn't work move on to something else.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bedminster, NJ
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    292
    Gosh, this is one area where I actually have experience. Ok, if he iron does not work, and with splintered wood it may not, go ahead and try the Dutchman - it looks to me that you should be able to match the grain very closely with scraps - and practice a few times on your scrap pieces. One way to do this is to peal away the first layer of the matching plywood, lay it over the damaged area and tape or temp glue it down good. Then use a sharp razor knife to cut through the patch and the damaged area - the fit should be perfect. This is nothing more than a veneer patch. The the trick is to remove the damaged area carefully by pealing away the first layer without damaging the cut lines that you made. You can always use a filler to make up for the deep cut areas - then glue in the patch.

    I have done this a couple of times and always hate the process because you always worry about what is going to go wrong next....or you continually think about how stupid it was that you made the mistake - you know the kind of stuff we all repeat in these situations. but I have found that the patch is noticeable only to the craftsman - others never see it so don't tell!

    Ray
    Semper Fi

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
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    4,673
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Unni
    It's a bit hard to see, but the damage is more then just a dent. The damage is splinters and crushed fibers. Some of the splinters actually had to be peeled away to where the depth in need of repair is between 1/16 and 3/32. Will an iron raise the wood enough to then sand smooth?
    Any chance you saved those splinters? I always try to find the torn out pieces and glue those back in if I can. The fit and grain match dont get any better. It might not take care of the entire problem but might get you close enough to raise the area with the iron and sanding technique.
    Use the fence Luke

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    What Doug said...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Bersch
    ...The the trick is to remove the damaged area carefully by pealing away the first layer without damaging the cut lines that you made...
    Great suggestions Ray, but this isn't plywood. I guess I'll have practice my "precision paring on a curved panel". But I think this will do the trick.

    Thanks everyone,
    -joe
    Illegitimi non carborundum

    "If you walk, just walk, if you sit, just sit, but whatever you do, don't wobble."
    -Zen Master Unmon

    To gain additional features, benefits and ad-free access to SMC
    CLICK --> http://www.sawmillcreek.org/donate.php

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Northern New Jersey
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    Hi Joe,
    If you do decide to do some steamin', be aware that the area you steamed may not accept stain the same as non-steamed areas. If you're applying a clear finish, or only a light stain, you're probably OK.

    On another note, are you going to smooth the inside radius of the panels (that is, the concave side)? If so, how do you plan to do this? I'm in the middle of making coopered panels and haven't decided whether to leave the panels as coopered or to try smoothing it.

    -Jeff

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