Bandsaw blade selection

[Scott Taylor]

With all the talk about bandsaws lately (and gloats, congrats guys), it reminds me to ask a question. I am a new bandsaw owner too and new to using one, got a Powermatic about a month ago. ( I didn't gloat because I was new to the site and didn't realize it was in the fineprint of the membership rulebook...lol)

I am curous what the opinions are about blade selection. Specifically, I've heard from some people, mostly at trade shows, about the use of bi-metal blades. First, what are they in comparison to a "normal" blade, and is there any real benefit? I understand tensioning has something to do with it. Second, what are some recommended brands and sources?

[CPeter James]

Timberwolf from Suffolk Machinery and the Woodslicer from Highland hardware are both highly rated.

CPeter

[Pete Bradley]

I'll second "Timberwolf", though I buy them from Constitution Saw in South Windsor, CT. Get yourself a couple of 3/8" X 4TPI and a couple of 1/2" X 3 TPI and you'll be well on your way.

Pete

[Howard Acheson]

As basically a new bandsaw owner, I strongly recommend you order Lonnie Bird's Bandsaw Book from Amazon. It will discuss the different types of blades and which one to use when. Getting some basic, non manufacturer related information is important to making the correct choices of the blades you will need. There is no such thing as a general purpose bandsaw blade. Each type of cut is best made with the correct blade.

[glenn bradley]

I'll third Timberwolf. Made my POS C-man cut like a real saw. Amazing difference from a brand new BORG blade and not that much more.

[Rob Millard]

Scott,
I found the Timberwolf blades to be acceptable. The Wood Slicer I bought was very poor, so I don’t recommend them (it dulled very quickly). Your Powermatic is a more robust machine than my Jet 14”, so you may be able to use ½” or wider blades, but I never use over 3/8” on mine. Regardless of the width issue, I’ve been very impressed with the Power Band Matrix II blades sold by Starrett. These are Bi-Metal, which means they have a more resilient band with harder teeth grafted on; this makes for a longer lasting blade. I have been able to make daily use such blades for nearly a year, before replacement was necessary.
As a general purpose blade, I use a .025 x 3/8” 8-12P blade. This will cleanly and accurately cut any wood up to about 6” thick. The variable pitch (8-12) really helps to dampen vibration.
I use a very similar blade in a ¼” width for tight curves.

For re-sawing I use a Power Band Matrix II. 025 x 3/8” 4P. Unfortunately they do not make a variable pitch in the width appropriate for my use. While not as long lasting as the general purpose blade, this blade easily out lasts two or more of the Timberwolf blades.
I replaced my tensioning spring with an after market one so I could better tension these blades ( the Jet spring was of inferior quailty). At first I thought that they may require more tension than my saw is capable of, but they work very well at a tension far below what I could apply.
You can by these from nearly any Industrial Supply outlet that deals with the machine trades, or you can buy them from mscdirect.com

Rob Millard

[Scott Taylor]

Thanks Rob for the thorough answer. When you say "inferior" what do you mean? I my mind, a spring is a pretty simply piece of metal. What improvements did you see by changing out? I don't use the BS as much as some of you all, usually for quick trims and cutting bowl blanks.

I've also noticed that many of the parts on WW machinery seems to almost be interchangable. For instance, I have the Powermatic BS, but looking at the Griz and Jet BS in the same category they seem to almost identical. Just different paint. I've also noticed that many jointers and planers from different brands seem to be from the same casting. Just an observation, but point being, if you had issues with you part there is a possibility that I may see the same thing happen...down the road.

[Rob Millard]

Scott,
I’m not all that familiar with Powermatic, but I perceive it to be of higher quality than my Jet. I like my Jet and it has served me well, but it is not what you’d call a heavy duty machine; the piece that adjusts the table for bevel cuts is particularly flimsy.
On the spring, when new it worked okay, but after a couple of years, the spring took a set, and no long preformed its function of tensioning and acting as a shock absorber. I will freely admit that other than the 4 weeks at Christmas that I don’t work, I do not remove the tension from my saw. The Ittura (spelling?) spring has been on the saw since 2000, and was treated in the same manner as the original spring, yet it has held up very well; in fact I can detect no change in its condition. I’m not a metallurgist, but it is my understanding that there is wide variation is the quality of springs, and my experience with these springs, bears that out.
Rob Millard

[Pete Bradley]

There is no such thing as a general purpose bandsaw blade. Each type of cut is best made with the correct blade.

True, but the 3/8X4 "Timberwolf" comes close. I've found that most of the time, it's not worth the time to swap. I've exercised this band pretty heavily from curves to crosscuts and rips to a 13" green oak log (works, though not recommended). I'll set up a special band if I'm going to slice up some veneers or logs but that's about it.

There was a good bandsaw tuning article by Michael Fortune a while ago in which he said he mostly runs 1/2" X 3. Mileage may vary, especially if you're going to do scrollwork or a lot of a particular task.

Pete