Panel saw

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Todd,
Oops! I didn't answer you question about my minor improvements....

Instead of using threaded knobs to change the circular saw's direction from crosscut to rip cut, I used very small toggle clamps. It's quicker, and no loose parts during change over.

I added an electrical switch which activates an oulet next to the switch that the circular saw plugs into. Also, I use a spiral coiled extension cord that is used for trimming shrubs. It acts like an auto retractor to keep the cord out of the way.

-Jeff

[Michael Schwartz]

I have wordked with a panel saw set up with a rough blade for hacking down sheets for the table saw and the thing is nowhere near as efficient as my EZ smart setup.


The flaws of a pannle saw.

No zero clearence protection on the cut = massive terrout

Many don't include a stop system for repeatability

They take up a tremendous ammount of wall space
and you need alot more clearence at least on one side to load them.

Even though they can be used to rip, the weight of the sheet will
bind on the blade like crazy, resulitng in burning, a ragged cut, and
the possibility of kickback


Panel saw vs guide system (Fesstool or EZ Smart)

Zero clearence protection on both sides of the blade for little or no terrout regardless of blade, and TS quality cuts with a finish blade.

Setup a good 4x8 cutting table, like an EZ "Smart Table", or make your own. Foam doesn't provide enough support. Then place the sheet on the table once, and make all your cuts, only moving the guide rails and the saw. You could even setup the cutting table right off the tailgate of your truck so you can just slide the plywood right off.


EZ Smart vs Panel Saw

Better Cut Quality

Repeatability on both sides of the blade without having to take into account the saw-blade

Doesn't take up any room in my shop when I am not using it.

Faster than a a pannle saw for ripping

Can rip narrow strips off of an 4x8 sheet with the repeaters faster than anything except some monster in a factory setup for gang ripping a thousand sheets a day into a set peice.

More ergonomic, safer, more accurate, and instead of just breaking sheets down for the TS you can just cut all your parts.

I can't say much for the fesstool, as I don't own it but I am sure it is a quality tool and it does have its merits. I don't wan't to start another EZ vs Fesstool war, but I did choose the EZ over the Fesstool, primarily becuause I feel the EZ is more versitile, and offers many more options for repeatibility, and with the bridge, replaces my tablesaw most of the time.

[Matt Meiser]

Also, I use a spiral coiled extension cord that is used for trimming shrubs. It acts like an auto retractor to keep the cord out of the way.

I've never seen those. The only shrub trimming extension cord I've seen is the one that gets shortened by a few feet every year when I accidentally cut through it.

[Matt Meiser]

Foam doesn't provide enough support.

I think you are supposed to put the foam on top of a solid support--like the floor or a large table. I've never done it because I hate foam--those little pieces stick to everything for months.

[frank shic]

matt, it's funny that you mention the foam since i tried to trim a piece down last year using... a circular saw. yes, the stuff covered almost every available surface in the shop including myself and was a chore to get off!

[Tom Veatch]

Jeffrey - giving serious consideration to building this panel saw. Tired of crawling on the floor or embarking the ever elusive teenager. Pulled the old ShopeNotes out last night.

Reading through the plans, I am not sure if I will be able to cut a 5' baltic birch sheet. I assume I will be able to rip it, but do you know if I can also cross cut it.

Also, you mentioned some small modifications - any suggestions would be most welcome.

Thanks,

Todd

Like Jeffrey, I built the "old" version and recommend the material kit offered by ShopNotes. I was a little skeptical of the U-bolt/nylon spacer carriage guides, but it works very well and I am quite pleased with the results.

I don't believe there is enough room in the original plans to make vertical cuts on 5' widths. But, if that is a requirement, it should be a simple matter to mod the plans to get the necessary height.

[Jack Morrow]

I've been cutting down lots of 4' X 8' plywood lately and the EZ Smart system is tops. May I make a few points?

1. The guide rails are straight and sturdy.
2. Little storage space required.
3. No measurement offset because the guide rails have removeable plastic anti-chip edges thare are cut by your saw.
4. The base for your saw also has anti-chip guards cut by your saw.
5. The anti-ship edges/guards can wear and are replacable and inexpensive.
6. A $15 blade in your circular saw makes cuts that rival the $90 blade in your tablesaw.
7. I now safely handle and cut large panels.
8. I can slide a panel over to my cutting table and load it by tilting and lifting it by myself.
9. I used to use the "factory edge" because cutting was such a hastle, but I now make a good, clean edge.

No, I'm not Dino. But the ~ $250, EZ Smart GuideTM 114" PackageEZ Smart GuideTM 114" Package rocks.

Jack

[Matt Meiser]

I hear the complaint on panels being easier to handle vertical than flat. The EZ table helps because you don't have to move the sheet once it is on the table, but it can still be hard to get a heavy sheet on there for one person.

Dino, how about designing a vertical smart table? Combine the design of the vertical panel saws, but use the EZ guide to give chip-free cuts. We need some way to hold the saw on the rail too.

[Jack Morrow]

I hear the complaint on panels being easier to handle vertical than flat. The EZ table helps because you don't have to move the sheet once it is on the table, but it can still be hard to get a heavy sheet on there for one person.

Dino, how about designing a vertical smart table? Combine the design of the vertical panel saws, but use the EZ guide to give chip-free cuts. We need some way to hold the saw on the rail too.

Matt,

I move the panel to the table and lean it onto the table. Then, simply lift the bottom of the panel and push/slide it onto the table. It's really so simple and easy.

Jack

[Tom Hargrove]

Everything Mike said above is true and then some.

I have worked in two shops that had panel saws. In the first shop, it sat unused most of the time, because it was not accurate enough for cabinet work.

In the second, we finally put it up in the loft/attic after realizing that it was wonderful for taking up lots of valuable room and for generating dust as well as attracting dust. It was not real good for cutting sheet goods when accuracy mattered. We did like it because it could be used as a ladder to get up to the loft before we put it up there. . ..

I have tried several shop made and commercial jigs and fixtures. Then I used a Festool saw with guide rail. It makes accurate quality cuts. Sawdust collection is a snap. And – the tool stores neatly out of the way when you are done with it. It can be used on sawhorses at the back of a pickup so whole sheets don't need to be lugged in and manhandled. (This matters to those of us who are not as young today as we once were, and usually work alone!)

If you consider the cost, making a panel saw and buying a good saw and blade to use in it will cost about the same as a Festool.

[Randal Stevenson]

I hear the complaint on panels being easier to handle vertical than flat. The EZ table helps because you don't have to move the sheet once it is on the table, but it can still be hard to get a heavy sheet on there for one person.

Dino, how about designing a vertical smart table? Combine the design of the vertical panel saws, but use the EZ guide to give chip-free cuts. We need some way to hold the saw on the rail too.

I don't see any reason it couldn't be used vertically verses horizontally, it would just be harder to adjust. (although if you cut the same thickness over and over, look for some of the links in which people used hinges to mount the rail on one side.

That said, WHAT and HOW do you load and unload sheets into? With my Smart table, I pull the truck in, and unload them one at a time on it (so I can cut them down). Smaller pieces I do on the Bridge (still trying to get happy with my portable Bridge, haven't decided which way is best, leaning towards the Spartan).
But if your set on a panel saw (I started looking in 2004, before deciding on the EZ and buying in 2005), do you have any out of business hardware stores/chains? We had Payless Cashways, Home Quarters, Builders Square, just to name a few, and I would see used panel saws from them all the time.

[Dino Makropoulos]

I hear the complaint on panels being easier to handle vertical than flat. The EZ table helps because you don't have to move the sheet once it is on the table, but it can still be hard to get a heavy sheet on there for one person.

Dino, how about designing a vertical smart table? Combine the design of the vertical panel saws, but use the EZ guide to give chip-free cuts. We need some way to hold the saw on the rail too.

Hi Matt.
Working vertical and pushing / resetting the panel after each cut.
A. Load the panel on a single task tool on a dedicated 12'-00" wall.
B. Make your first trimming / squaring cut. (You need a good back)
C. Set the stop.
Walk few feet.
Push the panel against the stop.
Walk to the saw. Make your first cut.
D. Unload the cut piece.
Push the panel against the stop.
Make your second cut.
E. Unload the cut piece..... to be loaded again
for the rip cut following the above routine.

The vertical panel saws are made for total safety at the lumber yards.
If you read the notes:
No precision cuts. No clean cuts. No narrow cuts.

The industrial vertical panel saws are much better.
I used one for 5 years.
The stop system is multiple and the carriage /Beam
moves easily and very precise.
The cuts are cleaner and the safety is second to none.
I used an industrial vertical panel saw for few years.
Nice single task tool but not the ultimate easy solution.
Nice tool but not the right answer for speed.
The computerized Vertical Panel saws are a different animal.


The commercial EFSTS. (EU Sliders)
I used one for few years.
A must in a commercial shop for it's versatility
but not for the ease and speed of cutting panels.
Not as safe as the vertical panel saws but safer
than a cabinet saw on all cuts...
IF you find ways and learn to use the slider on all cuts.
Paul made a nice jig for ripping narrow stock safe.


The problems with panel saws is the handling of the panels.
The solution is to handle each part once without loading and unloading the panel 100 times.

The ultimate easy way is to make your first cut.
Without moving anything or touching the large 'uncut ' piece,
you can make the final cut ( On the cut piece) from the same spot.
I will post videos and photo gallery's about the New Format EZ System.
a system that is good on panels and solid stock.
Here is a simple version of the EZ PBB.

Posted on the ez forum.

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=61864
And here is the compete ez solution for panels and thin stock.

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=61953

[fRED mCnEILL]

I recently built a panel saw that is a combination of plans from a couple of magazines. To built it I bought 6- 8 ft 2x4's, a sheet of plywood and 2- 6 ft. peices of aluminum angle. To make a long story short, I built a frame to hold the plywood sheet to be cut. I then attached the aluminum angle and the saw base slides in between the two peices of angle. Very simple. Its not fancy, it doesn't have a counterbalance to bring the saw back up to the top and it doesn't have a fancy carriage to carry the saw. But it works and its is VERY accurate.And when you are finished you can use the saw for other things. I built it in an afternoon with the bulk of the time taken making sure the angle al. was 90 deg. to the sheet being cut.

To use it you place the sheet to be cut on the frame and position it.You then take the saw and place it between the angle al. and pull it down cutting the sheet.

It won't rip the sheet but I decided that was something I could live without.
And it probably cost me about $20.

Fred Mc.