Bandsaw Blades

[Gary Garmar]

I need some help in purchasing the correct blades for what I want to do with the BS. I need blade(s) for resawing and for sawing out turning blanks. Needs to be durable and pretty much a do all blade(s). Thanks in advance.

[James Carmichael]

Gary,

Your question will probably get much more action in the General Woodworking and Power Tools forum. You'll also need to give details on your saw, make, model, wheel diameter, HP, etc.

[TYLER WOOD]

for resawing you will want a really wide blade. It will give you a more sturdy blade for stability purposes. You will get a better result than with narrow blades.

For sawing blanks you will want a medium width blade so it will turn easily. Wider blades do not like turning circles for blanks. A wide blade would work for both if you wanted to just cut the sides of instead of getting the piece round.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Gary

A 1/2" wide blade with 3 to 4 tpi will resaw and 'round' blanks to as small as 5 or 6" diameter comfortably. If you have a bigger than average band saw you you can go bigger for the Re-sawing.

I bought a box of 20 new blades to fit my saw at an estate auction for $28, they are Olson blades. At this price I can discard easier than if I was buying a brand new Timberwolf every time I thought I was getting a little dull.

Frank

[George Guadiane]

Gary

A 1/2" wide blade with 3 to 4 tpi will resaw and 'round' blanks to as small as 5 or 6" diameter comfortably. If you have a bigger than average band saw you you can go bigger for the Re-sawing.

I bought a box of 20 new blades to fit my saw at an estate auction for $28, they are Olson blades. At this price I can discard easier than if I was buying a brand new Timberwolf every time I thought I was getting a little dull.

Frank

If you can't get an estate auction deal, you might want to call Suffolk Machine. They are the sellers of Timberwolf blades. They were recommended to me by Ukulele makers and bowl turners alike... When I called, it was to complain about their website, I couldn't figure out how to order on line. The VERY helpful guy who answered the phone started asking me questions, what kind of bandsaw, what do you want to do with these blades, wet wood, dry wood, how thick, resaw or bowl blanks... After substantial 3rd degree, he told me what I should ordered and that he didn't sell on the internet because he wanted to make sure his customers got the blades they needed for the jobs they intended to do. I have been a devoted customer ever since

OH, the blades work like a dream for me.

[Paul Andrews]

I will second what Frank said regarding Suffolk machinery. Great people to deal with. All you need to do is call them and provide the details of what you want the blade to do and what equipment you are working with, and they will tell you what you need to order.

[Gary Garmar]

Thanks for all the information, I will order from Suffolk today.

[Don McIvor]

Gary-

You're definitely looking for two different blades. Spend a little money on the resaw blade and get something good--you'll be happier with the results. Specs mentioned elsewhere in this thread for bowl blanks are accurate. But sawing bowl blanks is hard on a blade, so I recommend something on the cheaper end. I use Olson blades for bowl blanks and am generally happy with them (but would be a lot happier if I'd found a box full at an estate sale!).

You didn't mention which BS you have. Be aware that a 14" band saw (what most folks have, including me) will not properly tension a blade that's over 1/2" wide. This might affect your decision on the re-saw blade, where you might be tempted to go with a wider blade.

Don

[Jim Becker]

For your turning blank work, which is usually green wood, you want a blade designed for cutting wet wood. The Timberwolf AS series from Suffolk Machinery is what I use for that--usually a 1/2" blade on my saw, but if you're working with smaller piece, you may need a narrower blade. For resaw work, you'll want a different blade configuration based on your actual saw. Suffolk can make a recommendation for that with your input.

[Reed Gray]

I have never tried a Timberwolf blade. My saws take a 96 inch and a 150 inch blades which are unusual sizes. I have a dealer who has the Lennow bimetal blades, and will make them up to order. They will cut through a nail without too much damage. They take longer to dull than other blades I have tried. I wanted a carbide blade to try out, and the guy told me that they are only good for resawing veneers. I tried one out anyway, and they don't cut wet wood as well as a resaw blade does, and on a properly tuned up bandsaw will give a much smoother cut than you can get on your table saw.
robo hippy

[Jim Becker]

Reed, Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery come in whatever size you need...these are not the retail packaged ones from PS Wood you see in Woodcraft in "common" sizes. Same blade material, but custom made to exact length. And at a lower price.

[joe greiner]

Best to use two different blades for straight and curved cuts. Curved cuts, always cut in the same direction, wear the teeth on one side more than the other; the set becomes eccentric, and straight cuts develop more drift as usage progresses. You can reduce this tendency by alternating the direction of cut for bowl blanks: clockwise, counter-clockwise, CW, CCW, ...

Joe

[Jim Becker]

Best to use two different blades for straight and curved cuts.

ABSOLUTELY! Thou shalt not use one's resaw blade for any kind of curved cutting including even the most gentle of curves...

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use the Timberwolf 3 tpi AS blade for green wood and cutting bowl blanks. For resaw I haven't found a much better blade than the 1/2" Woodslicer from Highland Hardware. It gives a smooth straight cut and works well.

[JerHall]

IMHO it is a waste to get Suffolk or Highland bands for bowl blanks. I have used them and I can't see any difference in longevity vs basic hardened carbon blades when cutting green, thru bark, and god knows what else. On a value basis just get an inexpensive blade. BC Saw and Tool was recommended by Fine Woodworking as a great value, and they have a nice tutorial for picking a blade. I ended up just going to my local saw shop and had some 3/8 x 3tpi welded up from Lenox basic carbon bands. Under 15 bucks each as I recall for 145" bands.

This way I don't begrudge putting on a sharp blade. And mine have resawn up to 12" pine and alder perfectly. Too lazy to change to my expensive resaw blade, and got away with it.

Also I use my electric chain saw as much as I can. It can actually be safer for roughing out a blank. Daniel E. doesn't have a bandsaw per his video! Lathes are pretty good at getting things round.