glossy finish on pens...what to use

[Joe Suelter]

I like the look of pens when they are really glossy, almost plastic like. I've been using HUT, sanding to 800 grit before hand. Is there something better out there to deliver what I'm after? I have Tripoli (bar) and white diamond (bar) that I've been experimenting with, topped off with the HUT, and like the results. Don't get me wrong, I think the HUT does a fine job, but by the time the pen is assembled, it looks rather dull again. Any suggestions? By the way, Gorilla glue (or a derivitive there-of) will be my choice of glues from now on! I posted a question earlier in the week about glues, and have since ditched my CA glue...have done 9 more pens without a single failure!

[Kenn Osborne]

Hi Joe,

Many people use CA glue as a finish, some use it for a sealer like I do. I sand to about 320 apply some thin CA with the lathe off. I use disposable vinyl gloves to do this, you can use other things such as packing material to do this, just nothing cellulose based because it will act as an accelerator for the glue and will make a mess. After the glue is applied I sand again with 320 and take down the glue untill it is completly off the surface. Then I sand through with Mirco Mesh to 12000 grit then apply a coat of Myland Friction Polish. This has worked well for me. There are many other methods to get a beautiful finish. I would suggest checking out http://www.penturners.org and http://groups.yahoo.com/group/penturners/ there are many many posts on how to get a great finish on pens.

Hope this helps

[Joe Suelter]

Well, after experimanting with some finishes, I may have answered my own question. I didn't realize that you could wax after applying HUT. I used Carnuba wax (bar form) about 5 minutes after applying the HUT, then buffed the wax with a paper towel. Man, this is just the look I am after. I like the feel of the pens a lot better when glossy and smooth like this...I just hope it lasts! I also need to look into some MicroMesh, anybody have any thoughts on it? Good or Bad? I also noticed in my free Penn State DVD that they sell a product called EEE polish (tripoli...triple e ?). Has anyone tried it, looks like it should work quite well. I'm having a blast making these pens, can't wait to get my name on the board with some donations!!!!

[Stanley Campbell]

I have found I get a better finish if I use the HUT wax bars and then the friction polish (Crystal Coat), then after I put the pen together I use Renaissance Wax.

As for the Micro Mesh, It works great. By the time you get to 12,000 your pen will look like it has been waxed.

Stan

[Terry Quiram]

I use CA in the manner just like Kenn Osborne described but I apply 2 coats of CA to make sure all pores are filled then after sanding with 320 for the second time I wet sand with mineral spirits then sand/buff through the 5 Abrolon pads and finish with a coat of Huts.

Terry

[RL Johnson]

I use the EEE polish as a sanding sealer under my friction polish. I really like the way it fills some of the open grain woods like Narra. I usually use one coat but sometimes two are necessary if there is alot of open grain. The fine tripoli polishing compound also gives a much smoother and burnished appearance before you apply your finish. I think you will like the EEE if you try it.

[Joe Suelter]

Thanks RL, I think I will order some after lunch today!!!

[RL Johnson]

Joe
Just one word of caution that I forgot to mention. The polish needs to be kept off your bushings as it will turn black and may stain light colored wood. A little goes a long way so don't over do it.

[Joe Suelter]

Yeah, I figured that out the hard way with my bar of tripoli that I've been using. Turned the wood black, and the bushings look like chrome!!! I barely touched them with it, and it made quite a mess...starting over sanding took it off though...then the whole thing starts all over..man it's fun though!

[Larry Gottlieb]

After I have turned the pen to final size (with the wood slightly higher than the bushing), I remove the bushings and substitute short lengths of the brass tubing.

I continue to sand, apply CA, EEE, friction polish, with no concerns about staining light wood with the metal from the bushing.I use a little wax on the tubing to keep the CA from gluing everything together.

Another benefit is that I can soften the ends of the barrels so that the transition to the metal parts is smooth

Of course you have to be careful not to sand the nib end too much or the fit will not be good.

Larry

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[Joe Suelter]

Great idea, Larry...with all my busted tubes, I can probably come up with a few short pieces! Geez, the ideas keep on rollin' in!