I have a Nova G3 Chuck.
Saw a thread recently about the angle needed for the dovetail.
My Question is:
If you were going to buy a new Chuck what would you buy?
Why?
Charlie
[OP]
Member
I have a Nova G3 Chuck.
Saw a thread recently about the angle needed for the dovetail.
My Question is:
If you were going to buy a new Chuck what would you buy?
Why?
Charlie
Contributor
Charlie, are you having a difficult time with your chuck holding? There are scrapers specifically made for cutting the recess if you are having a problem with the dovetail. The oneway chucks do not require a dovetail.
Since you already have a nova, the supernova 2 could be a good choice if you want a bigger chuck since the jaws are compatible. if your main problem is the dovetail, either get a scraper or go with a oneway or other chuck that takes a square tenon. you probably have the manual, but here is the link with information on forming the dovetail.
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Ch...ual_120603.pdf
Ben
Member
Charlie,
You may want to look at other Nova jaw sets since they are supposed to work with your chuck. You might want to try the powergrip or spigot jaws to see if they will suit your needs since they are much cheaper (~$50) than buying a new chuck.
Member
Oneway Talon is my pick. I believe they come in straight or dovetail jaws and I have the straight ones. But, there's nothing wrong with the Novas. I have 2 of them but don't particularly like the dovetails.....Ron
Contributor
Charlie..........Since you already have a Nova chuck, I'd go with a SN2. The jaws should be interchangeable so in the long run it'll be cheaper. I'm transferring my SN2 from my Jet VS Mini to my PM3520B this coming weekend.
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
Member
Charlie,Originally Posted by Charlie Adams
Matching that angle is not critical. We are turning wood here, the fiber would be compressed to the metal jaw.
No matter what jaw shapes you are using, a close tight fitting shoulder is the most important part.
With serrated jaw, you have to remove the chewed up spigot. With dovetail jaw, sometimes you may leave the recess if you want to.
Since you already have the G3, I would go with SN2. With Nova chucks, all jaws (except 1) are interchangeable. You can save a lot of money.
Gordon
Member
I have the SN2 and agree whith the statement. We are not worknig with metal the wood will conform to the jaws profile granted that you use enough pressure.
Aside from that how do you like the chuck. I'm thinking about a second chuck and that is on my whish list.
[OP]
Member
Thanks for the suggestions...
My problem is my pieces keep coming loose from the chuck.
I am cutting the dove tail pretty close to the correct angle.
And the shoulders are large and flat.
Charlie
[OP]
Member
My pieces keep coming out of the chuck.
My angle is pretty close to being correct.
My shoulder is large and flat.
???????????
Charlie
Member
If you already own a SN2, the choice is simple. Stick with Nova chucks. I like the SN2; the hex key is a big improvement over the pivoting key of the original SN.
I also like the long nose jaw, it allows me access to the rear side of turning. Their bowl jaw has very wide shoulder, that gives a lot of leverage on holding the bowl.
I also like their faceplate rings. Unlike regular faceplate which you have to remove when you reverse turn. I can leave the ring on and still use the live tail center for support on the initial reversing. That allows me to flip back and forth to reshape my piece.
When you want to add a smaller G3 or the jumbo Titan chuck down the road, all the jaw sets can be interchangeable. That would save a lot of money on jaws.
If I have to do it all over, most likely I would pick Nova again for economic reasons. The only thing different would be the G3 instead of the Midi (at its current price close to $100 vs $70 at introductory). For $35 more, I would get the G3 for its flexibility.
Gordon
Member
Whichever chuck you go with it's critical that the tenon is the correct size and shape. The tenon must not bottom out in the chuck and the tenon must shaped so the top of the jaws sit flat on the bottom of the piece. It's the intersection between the jaws and the bottom of the piece in combination with the grip of the jaws on the tenon (or recess) that will prevent the blank from being ripped free.
Jason
Member
Charlie,
Can you take a close up picture of how your blank attached to your chuck jaws?
Do you have any gaps between the shoulder and top of jaws? Do you have a sharp corner for the shoulder to register on?
Is your tenon bottoming?
Did you match the dots to the number on jaw insert?
Does your jaw form a circle when closed?
Are you sure the jaw sits tight against the insert? There are no foreign objects or burrs.
Unless you have a defective chuck (in this regard, Teknatool has very good service), a straight jaw won't fix your problem with pieces coming off the chuck.
Gordon
Member
Charlie, I'm not familiar with the Nova G3. But how are you tightening it? In most chucks, there are two locations for the chuck key; similar to the three locations on a Jacobs drill chuck. None of these are entirely friction-free in their innards. It's best to use both (or all three) locations when tightening to assure uniform purchase on the wood or the drill, as the case may be. There's a similar construction and advice for chucks using tommy bars.
Joe
Contributor
I agree with Joe. Tighten all sides. If you have 3 tighten all 3 and if two tighten both. Don't be afraid to really clamp down. I had the same problem with my apprentice and they told me to give it everything I had.
Bernie
Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.
To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.
Contributor
Hmmm....can't do that unless the mustard is out of the box....
....hmmm....could it be?
~john
"There's nothing wrong with Quiet" ` Jeremiah Johnson
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