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Thread: Band saw fence material?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    131

    Band saw fence material?

    OK, well I've pretty much finished up building a over-sized band saw table that extend my JET 14 BS to have a 24" X 22" table. I made the table from MDF with a double thick edge for durability. I've added T-tracks into the front and back ides to handle a fence.

    Now I'm on to the fence and not sure what to build the fence from, I have options I guess:

    1. Go with a Doubled MDF sandwich as it is typically very straight and should not change much due to weather.
    2. Use some Maple I've got as scrap, very durable and I can surface straight and true, but it is possible to have some movement with weather.
    3. I could go with BB plywood or other plywood, should be pretty straight as well.
    The cost is not an issue as this is all small so the real issue is what will be best for the long term, I'm leaning towards 2 but 1 is in the running as well.

    Your thoughts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    107
    Get a Kreg fence. IMHO

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,337
    I like the solid lumber approach. You can run it over the jointer to ensure that it is really flat. To minimize distortion due to humidity changes, use quartersawn lumber. It will expand up and down on the fence, but not twist.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    131
    Fred, I had considered that but with the over-sized table that is no longer an option. I want both things, the larger surface and fence.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
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    131
    Any more input from those who have built their own????

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,310
    I use a Baltic Birch fence that I made, for straight cuts.

    Many band saw blades have an assymetrical set, so that the fence has to be offset from parallel to the blade. This is difficult to do unless the fence is simply clamped to the table.

    For resawing of veneer I use the stock fence with a vertical rod on the face, this allows me to adjust the path depending upon how the blade is reacting to the wood.

    Regards, Rod.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS
    Posts
    28
    Michael,

    Several years ago, I built 3 BS fences out of MDF with a couple of coats of poly and they still serve me well. Each fence is a different height so I can get close to the blade and still have the guides down as close to the stock as possible. Recent jigs & fences are Maple ply & hard maple.

    Best Regards,

    Les

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742
    I guess that I'm a bit of an underworrier. I made my BS fence from 7 ply plywood. Sealed it with shellac and forgot about it. Does ambient moisture change the dimensions? Danged if I know, 'cause the last thing I do when I use a fence is check for straight. How much could a relatively short piece of 7 ply change?
    It's kinda like honing to an 8000 finish on a plane iron. What's the point after 2000?
    We are mostly dealing with wood, and the stuff is in a state of continuous flux due to moisture, temp, etc.
    In my humble opinion plus or minus .0005 doesn't make a bit of difference when you're dealing with a moving (dimensionally) target.
    Now, did that stir up a firestorm?
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    32
    I recently did a similar top on my Delta 14" and used a piece of laminated MDF that I had left over. Its been working fine! I do like the Kreg fence, but was too tight to get one

    Paul

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