PM66 vs General 650

[Narayan Nayar]

When I was in the market for a cabinet saw 2 years ago, I was also deciding between the General 650 and the venerable PM66, leaning towards the 66 since most of my professional woodworking friends had them.

I ended up with the 650 for a number of reasons. I purchased it at a woodworking show which was really the only opportunity I had to check them both out side-by-side. I looked at the PM66 first and asked the PM rep a lot of questions and told him I was also looking at a General. Once he found out I was looking at a General, he basically proceeded to criticize everything about the General--except the saw itself or its features. He went on and on about how it's Canadian and how parts are hard to get and how they don't manufacture things as well as "we do in the States..." blah blah blah.

I went to the General booth and asked about the 650 and told the rep I was looking at the PM66. He said, "that's a great saw...here's where we've done things differently." He proceeded to go through features and focused on differences between the saws. I bought the General on the spot. So sales reps out there take note--there's a difference between knowing your competition and bashing your competition. The former informs your buyer; the latter makes you look like an idiot. The difference was worth a couple of grand that day.

I have other PM equipment--a jointer and a bandsaw--and I'm happy with those and with the customer service I've had on them. In the end it probably won't matter too much which saw you end up with. They're both great saws.

[Simon Dupay]

I vote for the NA made machines I never have used a twainese made cabinet saw that wasn't a POS. (Sawstop,grizzly,jet)

[Fred Voorhees]

I vote for the NA made machines I never have used a twainese made cabinet saw that wasn't a POS. (Sawstop,grizzly,jet)

Tell us how you really feel Simon.

[Gary Herrmann]

I've got a 650 in the basement. Was also thinking of PM 66 vs mine, was leaning towards the 650 already and then the place where I bought it had a sale. You'll be happy with either.

[Simon Dupay]

Saw stop- 1 at work -had to replace trunnion, motor, both belts, dust defector and bearings.

jet-1 at cab school- blade drops as your using it (& it's set-up as the dado saw)
grizzly-1 at work-worst cabinet saw I have ever used it would vibrate so much you couldn't set anything down on it & the switch would shut off while making a cut.
The 3 Unisaws I've used never had a problem.

[Steven Hardy]

Saw stop- 1 at work -had to replace trunnion, motor, both belts, dust defector and bearings.

jet-1 at cab school- blade drops as your using it (& it's set-up as the dado saw)
grizzly-1 at work-worst cabinet saw I have ever used it would vibrate so much you couldn't set anything down on it & the switch would shut off while making a cut.
The 3 Unisaws I've used never had a problem.

I once considered an import vs domestic. I climbed into the cabinets at woodworker supply one by one and examined the bolts threads of each. i ran my finger along every gear in each one. i examined for sae gradeings.I examined the cut of the gears.The salesguy thought i was some kind of nut,when i told him I dont care if the top is shiney or if the paint is glossy...i want to see what it will be like in 10 or 15 years.Whats going to rust? Whats going to wear out?I did the same thing recently at Wood Craft. I made the same decision as I did the first time. Everyone really should do that for themself.NOTHING has changed in that respect.The tops have simply gotten shiney-er.The internal machineing is still the same. Some good...many CRAP!
Some countries I would be comfortable buying from...some NOT.

I did see a titanium coated saw top recently....now that just strikes me as RETARDED!

[Bob Hallowell]

I once considered an import vs domestic. I climbed into the cabinets at woodworker supply one by one and examined the bolts threads of each. i ran my finger along every gear in each one. i examined for sae gradeings.I examined the cut of the gears.The salesguy thought i was some kind of nut,when i told him I dont care if the top is shiney or if the paint is glossy...i want to see what it will be like in 10 or 15 years.Whats going to rust? Whats going to wear out?I did the same thing recently at Wood Craft. I made the same decision as I did the first time. Everyone really should do that for themself.NOTHING has changed in that respect.The tops have simply gotten shiney-er.The internal machineing is still the same. Some good...many CRAP!
Some countries I would be comfortable buying from...some NOT.

I did see a titanium coated saw top recently....now that just strikes me as RETARDED!

Well I guess I own a RETARDED saw whch btw I really like. I got a good deal on it but I love the titainium top as my saw lives in my unheated garage and when drastic temp chages come thur It's the only tool out there I don't need to clean the rust off of.

Bob

[Jon Grider]

Just a couple of observations on my mid 90's 66,and qualifying that with the admission that I've never used a General.I can compare it to an old Unisaw and contractor grade Craftsman from the 1950's both of which I knew intimately.
My 66 is well built overall,and to address a couple of your concerns,the miter gauge engages the slot well,and the depth of cut and tilt mechanisms,both work well with accurate repeatability.The Bessie style fence is very good as is the flatness of the table.The side table wings bolted on pretty much dead nut true out of the box.The 3 hp Baldor has never given me any trouble or even shown more than a hint of slowing when cutting some pretty hard stuff.
Lest I sound like a PM rep,I'll point out some of the shortcomings.The plastic motor cover is ill fitting and cheap.Ditto on the plastic handles attached to the DOC and tilt wheels.The dado head insert took extensive filing and sanding before it would drop into the table recess.
After owning this saw for nearly a decade and a half,I can say that I made a good purchase.

[Steven Hardy]

Saw stop- 1 at work -had to replace trunnion, motor, both belts, dust defector and bearings.

jet-1 at cab school- blade drops as your using it (& it's set-up as the dado saw)
grizzly-1 at work-worst cabinet saw I have ever used it would vibrate so much you couldn't set anything down on it & the switch would shut off while making a cut.
The 3 Unisaws I've used never had a problem.

I once considered an import vs domestic. I climbed into the cabinets at woodworker supply one by one and examined the bolts threads of each. i ran my finger along every gear in each one. i examined for sae gradeings.I examined the cut of the gears.The salesguy thought i was some kind of nut,when i told him I dont care if the top is shiney or if the paint is glossy...i want to see what it will be like in 10 or 15 years.Whats going to rust? Whats going to wear out?I did the same thing recently at Wood Craft. I made the same decision as I did the first time. Everyone really should do that for themself.NOTHING has changed in that respect.The tops have simply gotten shiney-er.The internal machineing is still the same. Some good...many CRAP!
Some countries I would be comfortable buying from...some NOT.

I did see a titanium coated saw top recently....now that just strikes me as RETARDED!