I've been a fan of Norm for years. It kills me to see how he builds his drawers, however. He uses dovetails for the front, which is great, but uses an ordinary lock-dado for the backs.....then he holds them together with brads... Sacrilege! My view is if you're going to all the trouble of making dovetails, why cut corners on the backs. Additionally, it involves another whole setup. I think it would be more efficient to cut dovetails on the back as well. Which brings me to my next point, why not instead forgo dovetails and use a lock miter bit.
I discovered this joint over 10 years ago in Jim Tolpin's book, "Building Traditional Kitchen Cabinets" , and have been using this method to build drawers ever since. This book was my bible for building cabinets, if you are considering doing it yourself, but don't know where or how to begin, I recommend this book highly. But I digress.
Now when I say build drawers, I mean for kitchen cabinets, vanities and shop cabinetry. For building period pieces, handsdown, dovetails are the way to go.
The great thing about the lock miter is the setup for each corner. If you need a drawer 21 3/8" wide and 22" deep you cut the sides to those exact measurements. No further calculations are necessary as with a lock rabbet or 1/2 blind dovetails, for example. And when I'm making repetitive tasks like kitchen cabinet construction, minimizing mundane calculations reduces mistakes. Once you get the router table setup correctly, it's just a matter of pushing the sides through the bit, whether it's 1 drawer or 20...it's all one setup. I use 1/2" stock, set in dados for the bottoms, unless the drawer is really small. This makes the drawer even stronger, especially in a down shear situation. I hold each drawer together with 2 webbed band clamps. BTW, I rip the drawer sides slightly wider then I need. After the glue sets up, I cut them to height on the table saw.
Anyhoo, that's how I make the majority of my drawers, how do you do it?