How do you build your drawers?

[Michael Pfau]

On all my drawers, I use through dovetails or half blind depending on what kind of drawer fronts I am using. On the back , slot dado, the reason Norm uses this process, is the pressure on all drawers are from opening it over years, and the back does not have that pressure. also always put that slot in about 2 inches or so, so you can open the drawer all the way, and it wont fall out of the opening. I completly agree on how Norm does it, and I do the same thing. Your drawers will last for many years!!

[Will Blick]

> If the craftsman of yesteryear had access to modern glues, plywood and power tools like router tables, you wouldn't see so many dovetails in antiques.

I fully agree with this.... Sometimes we get stuck in a time warp. The argument that dovetails provide pure mechanical joinery (glue is almost optional) seems like a valid argument. But if a modern glued lock miter joint is stress tested and fails outside the glue joint, well...... who cares about the interlocking strength of the DT joint. IMO dovetails can be very pleasing to the eye when contrasting woods are used. Same true of box joints.

[Karl Brogger]

Please don't get me wrong. Dovetails, box, drawer lock and some other joints look better and are stronger. But, in many applications, perfectly satisfactory is good enough. After all, you cannot even see a drawer unless it is open. Somewhere is this discussion is there room for a balance between perceived quality and overdoing it?

If you want to have your product blend in with everyone else's that is a fine motto to have. I try to deal with people that want something that is expensive, and looks expensive. I love the people who don't actually have any money, but are trying to prove to the world that they do. These are the best customers, the more expensive the better, that way they can tell their friends there ent C and bar cost $xxxxx. Or like this, $15,000 in cabinets and I didn't even build the island.


Thats percieved quality.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

16 penny nails. For heirloom pieces I'll use cemented finishing nails.


Really it all depends. This is a hobby for me so I do whatever strikes my fancy at the time.
I have:
A lockmiter cutter
A PC Omni jig
A Leigh D4
A Key Way Jig I made for my slider (works flawlessly and is easer to use than the Leigh or PC).
And I'm getting more in to hand cutting.

[Steven Bolton]

Do you have a photo of your key way jig for sliders?

Steve Bolton

[Steve Clardy]

2 different ways.

Kitchen cabs with no frills/details.
Drawer boxes are butt joints, glued and nailed. Haven't had one to fail in 14 years that I know of.

More detailed/costly cabinets, I use half blind joints on my drawers with false front.

[Jim Becker]

I built two for the wet bar today...using the pocket screw method. (behind a false front) I had them done in about, oh...20 minutes...including a restroom break and cutting the slots for the bottom to slide in.

[Dave Dye]

I love pocket screws, but how do you hide them when building drawers? Please show me pictures.

Thanks

[Steve Clardy]

I built two for the wet bar today...using the pocket screw method. (behind a false front) I had them done in about, oh...20 minutes...including a restroom break and cutting the slots for the bottom to slide in.

You sure took a long restroom break Jim

[Joe Vincent]

I love pocket screws, but how do you hide them when building drawers? Please show me pictures.

Thanks

I think someone mentioned that you put the pocket holes in the front of the drawer front (so you'd screw from the front to the sides) and cover it with a false front so that you'd never see the pocket holes. For the drawer back, put the pocket holes in the back side of the back so that you'd only see them if you removed the drawer.

I've not yet tried this method because I usually build drawers out of 1/2" stock and you need 1" screws with pan heads for this. I just purchased the correct Kreg screws so I can give it a try sometime soon. Not sure if it will be my "go to" method, but it's nice to have the option.

[Glenn Clabo]

Bad pic...but here is what they look like before you put the face (sitting on top of the granite) on... http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...8&d=1197909474

[Gary Randall]

Fully dovetailed drawers are recognized as the standard of quality. Anything less is perceived as mediocre. However, I agree that other methods provide the strength needed for many applications. My mentor, a professional furniture maker, used only dowel joints, for everything, and I never saw one fail. Of course, there were a lot of details to observe.

My favorite drawer is mechanically stronger, even without glue, than a classic dovetailed and glued drawer. It's made with vertical sliding dovetails. The face has two sliding sockets routed in, either full height or stopped below the top edge. The sides have full height sliding tails routed on the fronts and full height sliding sockets routed in the backs, set in from the back end for strength and support while open. The back has full height sliding tails routed on the ends. The back width is reduced so the bottom can slide in the grooves with the back in place. A nail or two through the bottom into the back and the drawer is mechanically sound. Glue only improves it. The sliding dovetails are fussy to rout but many drawers can be made from one setup.

The only disadvantage is that most people are conditioned to classic dovetails and won't recognize the mechanical strength of the drawer. It's ideal for shop drawers you don't want to come apart.

Frank Klaus's video on hand dovetailing drawers is excellent and gives you a good idea of why classic hand dovetailed drawers were used. A skilled craftsman can turn them out with a minimum of steps. I've found that a classic bench with proper vices is a must.

[Tim Reagan]

When cutting thru dovetails (front and back), what is the best way to cut the back piece so the bottom can slide in after glue up. Do you cut off the bottom 3/4" of DT's?
thanks

[Greg Funk]

When cutting thru dovetails (front and back), what is the best way to cut the back piece so the bottom can slide in after glue up. Do you cut off the bottom 3/4" of DT's?
thanks

If you're using through dovetails on the front and back start with one side and glue in the front and back then drop in the bottom and glue on the other side. This assumes your front and back pieces are the same width and that the bottom will be fully captured (i.e. not removable) after glueup.

Greg

[Mike Spanbauer]

That is clever James. I may have to try that with the new Domi.

mike