15" planer newbie question

[Dave Verstraete]

As I posted previously, I purchased a 15" planer (Grizzly G0453Z). Previous to this I had a Delta Lunchbox (hence the "newbie" designation). These are my initial questions. I'm sure that I will have more!

1. This planer has two rollers on the bottom bed that are factory set at .005 above the table ( I checked it with an indicator). The first pieces through the planer have a little more snipe than I'd like (.005 - .010). Should I be adjusting these rollers to flush?? What would be your first move?

2. There is about .005 difference in thickness across a 8" board. Would you settle for that or should I eventually be making adjustments on that. I know that this might sound a little "anal" (can I use that word on SMC?) but I'm a ToolMaker and we're supposed to be that way.

3. I've adjusted the wings (extensions) to flush at the bed and raised at the outside by about .010 - .015. Is that about right or should it be more or less?

[Peter Quinn]

what make of planer?

[Dave Verstraete]

Grizzly G0453Z.

[Ben Cadotte]

If you have the patience and the ability, I would try adjusting the rollers to .002 and see what happens. And I would say the same for the left to right face parallelism. It really deppends on how the machine adjustments are made. If they are crude then getting it closer may be a pain. If they are well designed you may get it spot on.

[Peter Quinn]

Directions for my planer state that for planing rough lumber the table rollers should be set 'high' at .003-.005", and for milling smooth lumber set between parrallel and .001" above the table. I'd start with that adjustment, then check the head for parrallel with a gauge block and feeler gauges.

After that check the infeed roller, chip breaker, and outfeed roller per manufactures specs. This is reccommended both to verify factory settings are accurate (trust no one) and to familiarize yourself with the machine.

You should also verify that the knives are properly set in the head if they are straight knives. I think IIRC I got my planer withing .003" side to side over a 14" board which works for me.

[David DeCristoforo]

How about a contrary opinion? I have never been a big fan of bed rollers. I have found them somewhat useful for running very rough stock but for anything else it's just one more thing to worry about keeping adjusted. The planer I currently own does not have them and I have never missed them. Some planers have a lever to bring the bed rollers up when you need them and to drop them out when you don't. I don't know if your Griz has this feature or not. Personally I would just lower them below the bed and keep the bed clean and waxed. If you need to run a lot of rough stock (something that is really pretty infrequent in a small shop) you can always crank them up.

YM

[Peter Quinn]

Come to think of it very little lumber ever hits my planer without first going over the jointer thus having a smooth face. I should check the bed rollers myself, don't remember what I set them at.

[Paul Simmel]

Dave,

I have had the older G1021 15" model for years, and am just now going to attach the extension rollers. Until recently, I just didn't have room for the planer with the rollers on, because it was mobile. So I learned pretty early on to lift up as I fed, and lift up as I pulled a piece out... to minimize snipe.

That said, I'm going to attach the in feed and out feed rollers now, and I, at least, plan on shimming them up high.

Bed rollers:

IIRC, .005 is too high. I think it's supposed to be betweem .002 and .005. The only time you lower the two bed rollers equal with the bed itself is when/if you are planing rough sawn material, such as would come off a band saw. I've thrown in plenty of band sawn material through mine without issue, and without lowering the two rollers.

I adjust mine by placing a straight edge along the bed, and raise the rollers up **just** until the roller moves as I slide the SE back and forth along the bed. That's got to be about .001 to .002.

.005 off from side to side:

The manual does state, however, that .004 is acceptable... but not to me. (smile)

ALso, I have been in the habit of placing packer's tape on the crank handle and with a Sharpie, marking **exact** micro positions with different colors representing different thicknesses... matching Sharpie lines to Sharpie lines from handle to the planer's body (also taped and marked). These marks actually stay consistent after changing out knives, if you use the knife jig that comes with the machine. Believe it or not, these things work extremely well.

You can really dial these suckers in.

Snipe:

Manual does say the in/out feed rollers should be more or less equal with the bed.

From personal experience, however, snipe is minimal when lifting up the board when feeding, and to be honest I am hoping to eliminate it with the extension rollers being adjusted up higher than the bed. The main thing is to get the board going in at a downward angle and coming out at an upward angle. How much? Possibly, till the snipe disappears all together. Maybe this will be an experience for the two of us.

You should be very pleased with that machine. IIRC, it has the 2 hp motor. Mine is the 1.5 hp, and I have never had an issue with the 1.5. I've run 15" oak panels through mine with very little if any strain. I also took off the depth limiter years ago, for when I run boards through on end. Common sense, there, though.

Hope this helps some.

[Paul Simmel]

>>> The only time you lower the two bed rollers equal with the bed itself is when/if you are planing rough sawn material, such as would come off a band saw. I've thrown in plenty of band sawn material through mine without issue, and without lowering the two rollers.

Dave,

I should clarify this. **I** do this because the rollers, if set high, can cause irregular results on the finished side. Bumps and things fall into the rollers, translating in bumps and things on the finished side. When the rollers are down, the bed itself levels out the pieces, resulting in a smoother surface. I've never had drag.