Building router table, some dimension questions

[Doug Arndt]

Bought my first router, and building a table.
I've a piece of left over counter top, 30 x 24, pretty close to the commercial tables, good for a starter table i figure.
Since I don't have space to leave it set up, I need to break it down each time I use it, so the smaller the better. I'll keep the 30" wide, but the 24 deep feels too big and I'm thinking of removing 5" to make it 30x19.
I made a fence, 4" deep.
Now the question, where to position the router. I'm currently thinking 8.5 or 9" from the front, that would mean the farthest back I could place the fence would be 6 maybe 7".
Any comments on "it would be better if you made it..." ?

[Jason Beam]

If you can swing it, I'd leave it as big as possible. Just as a guide, mine is 28x48 (to be fair, i have an incra fence that requires the 48"), and I'd hazard to bet I use every last quarter of that 28" as feed support (the fence is also 28" long).

I routinely put dados or beads or v-grooves or other such things into stock more than 6-7" from any edge. It really depends on what you're going to do, but I would give my fence as much travel as I can - because as soon as it can't do something I'll have a million needs for it TO be able to do it :P

[Anthony Whitesell]

I love to do dadoes on my router table so the ability to set the fence far back from the bit was a necessity for my design. Luckily, that also makes a good arrangement for the incra jig. Also keep in mind that "front" is relative. If the router is placed 7" from one edge, that makes it 12" to the other edge. So is the 7" in front of the bit or behind the bit? It just depends on which way you turn the table. It's my feeling that placing the router in the center limits your options in terms of depth and support.

I can't recall all the dimensions of my table off the top of my head, But I believe it is 25"x31". I put a 3/4" miter slot in 3" from the edge and the miter gauge from the table saw clears just clears the opening in the router plate (so the edge of the miter gauge is about 2" from the center of the router).

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would second the suggestion at keeping it as large as possible. You will need that real estate for larger pieces.

As to where to place the router in the table, most are centered in the piece front to back and side to side, but that is a personal preference. I have seen designs where the router is displaced to the front of the table, based on the fact that most of the operations you will do are on narrow pieces, and for the wider pieces, you simply work off of the back side of the table. It depends on how you intend to attach your fence to the table.

For my own table it is about 36x30", with a centered mounting plate, and I recessed t-track into the table top to secure my fence. This also gives me room up front for a miter slot in front of the router for gauges and feather boards.

Doc

[Jim Becker]

My router table tops have always been 24" by 36" and there were times when I would have preferred wider. The 24" deep dimension is not cumbersome and may help you keep certain kinds of jobs more stable, such as during panel raising.

[Jules Dominguez]

To change the subject a little, I don't consider any kind of grooves or tracks to be necessary or even very useful on a router table, especially if you make your own
fence(s). I don't know how thick your countertop material is, but if it's 3/4", you certainly don't want to cut grooves in it. In any event, make sure that the unsupported span of the tabletop is as short as is practical to avoid sag.

[Greg Hines, MD]

To change the subject a little, I don't consider any kind of grooves or tracks to be necessary or even very useful on a router table, especially if you make your own
fence(s). I don't know how thick your countertop material is, but if it's 3/4", you certainly don't want to cut grooves in it. In any event, make sure that the unsupported span of the tabletop is as short as is practical to avoid sag.

I guess that depends on your point of view. You do need to to shore up a 3/4" top when you put any grooves into a router top, and I don't think that anyone would dispute that. However, depending on how you plan to adjust your fence, they are useful. Attached is a photo of the rear of my router table fence, and I find it quite useful to be able to attach it with t-bolts and knobs, and in particular, pivot tiny amounts to get to the right setting.

Doc

[Jim Andrew]

My latest router table top is 28x48, overhanging the cabinet 2" all around. That is so I can use C clamps to clamp the fence any which way. Also offset the router to the right so I can rout wide pieces by turning the table 90 degrees. Built my top 1 1/2" thick and finished both sides, used T track like the doc, and mounted another T track so I could mount featherboards without using clamps. Clamps get in the way when you are feeding stiles and rails through. Jim

[Jules Dominguez]

I guess that depends on your point of view. You do need to to shore up a 3/4" top when you put any grooves into a router top, and I don't think that anyone would dispute that. However, depending on how you plan to adjust your fence, they are useful. Attached is a photo of the rear of my router table fence, and I find it quite useful to be able to attach it with t-bolts and knobs, and in particular, pivot tiny amounts to get to the right setting.

Doc

Doc, it's easy to clamp a fence to a tabletop if they're both built to facilitate the use of clamps.
I normally keep one end of my (homemade) fence screwed to the table and use a clamp on the other. All this takes is one screwhole through the table, and I can pivot the fence for fine (or not so fine) adjustments.
I have another (homemade) fence which is attached to a 1980's-era Incra jig which is attached to a plywood base. I can use it by clamping the plywood base to the table, no slots needed.
A square piece of plywood, mdf or other scrap can be pushed along the fence to support edge routing the end of a long workpiece. No miter gage needed.
I guess it does depend on your point of view. The storebought tables, stands, fences, jigs, parts for jigs and wonder machines available today either weren't available or I couldn't afford them when I started woodworking about 40 years ago. I, and I think most other home woodworkers of that time, made our own or made do with what we had. I will admit that I'm old, cranky and biased, though.

[Stephen Edwards]

I guess that depends on your point of view. You do need to to shore up a 3/4" top when you put any grooves into a router top, and I don't think that anyone would dispute that. However, depending on how you plan to adjust your fence, they are useful. Attached is a photo of the rear of my router table fence, and I find it quite useful to be able to attach it with t-bolts and knobs, and in particular, pivot tiny amounts to get to the right setting.

Doc

Hey Doc,

How about a frontal view of your router table, please? I like you setup. Thanks.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Hey Doc,

How about a frontal view of your router table, please? I like you setup. Thanks.

Will do. I am at the office now, but will get some fresh photos when I get back home.

Doc

[Stephen Edwards]

Much obliged. I'll look forward to seeing them.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Hey Doc,

How about a frontal view of your router table, please? I like you setup. Thanks.

Here are some photos of my router table. In the previous iteration of it, the bit storage was under the table, but when I put the new router into it, the dust collection handle was in the way, so I screwed it to the side of the case, which has worked out well.

The bit storage has three drawers, with a capacity of holding 60 1/2" shank bits, and 30 1/4" shank bits, though most of my 1/4" shank bits are in another case on the wall, and are hardly ever used.

The drawer at the bottom of the case is for odds and ends. The last part of the router table will be a large storage drawer that is going to hang under the shelf, and house the extra base and my old PC690, as well as a Craftsman rotary tool and its extra base units. I have not built that yet, as I had intended to use box joints on the corners, and am having trouble making the box joint jig I built work without tearing out the material.

The dust collection is from both the shroud around the bit, through the handle, and a separate collection off the fence. These are joined to a plumbing wye with connectors.

Overall, I am pleased with the fence design and function. The fences can accommodate up to a 4" diameter bit, though I do not have anything that large yet, and I can shim it to allow it to joint pieces effectively.

You can see in one of the photos the "Handymans Club" drill guides, which work well for shims. Someday I will get those shims from Rockler, but until then, these have served me well.

Doc

[Stephen Edwards]

Thanks Doc.........that looks like a nice system.

[Chip Lindley]

Welcome to the wonder world of routers, Doug! Since your space is at a premium, and a dedicated router table requires as much space as a 5 hp shaper, consider integrating your router table as an extension table on your table saw. This kills 2 birds with one sink cutout!

An auxillary router fence can be attached to the saw's rip fence to provide dust collection. I used a 20 x 27 table as the right extension wing of my faithful ol' Rockwell contractors saw for many years with fine results. Just a Thot!

Wish I had pix, but sold the saw on ebay after I found a 1998 3 hp PM66 with 50" commercial fence, overarm blade guard, Exaktor sliding table and mobile stand for only $1175 at a rich doctor's "changing hobbies auction" ....Gloat!! But my router is still mounted at the long end of the extension table.