The best way to finish a Cherry Desk?

[Bob Sanders]

Hey guys, I'm kind of new here and I'm not real great with all of the terminology... so take it easy on me!

I am planning on finishing a writing desk made from Cherry later this week, and was hoping to get any input from you guys on what my steps should be, and what some good results you have seen in the past took to get.

I want to do a fairly dark stain to match our bookshelves and another chair in the room, but other than that (and the desire for a glossy durable finish) I am completely open to your suggestions! I'm not even sure what sandpaper grit to finish with and what I'll need besides one coat of stain and one clear-coat. I need help.

Thanks so much!

[Sam Yerardi]

Bob,

Cherry will work with a lot of different finishing approaches. The main problem with cherry is known as blotching. The grain in cherry is such that the surface does not absorb liquids such as stain, etc., equally so you end up with splotches of darker coloring here and there. This is most noticeable with pigment stains. For this reason, dyes will work better as the dye penetrates the wood surface more evenly. If you want to use pigment stains, usually what you want to do first is to seal the surface of the wood before you do anything else. Typically a very thin mix of shellac or Seal Coat can be used. If you have to use stain, I would opt for GEL stain. Gel stain will not be absorbed as readily as liquid stain, and since you have sealed the surface, you have a better shot at applying a consistent coat of coloring to the surface.

Having said this about using stain to darken or color the cherry appropriately, keep in mind that cherry will darken on its own quite rapidly over time so you don't want to stain or color too darkly.

If you don't need to color or use a stain, then you can use boiled linseed oil (BLO) and/or shellac. I've gotten wonderful results with both.

Whatever you decide to do, try it on scrap pieces first to see what you like.

[Jim Becker]

Since you intend on a very dark end result, I'll first suggest that you not spend the premium for cherry. Use maple, alder or tulip poplar and then work with water soluble dye, shellac and glaze to get something akin to the furniture you are trying to match. You will need to experiment and test to find the finishing regimen that gets the look you want. Commercial finishes are muli-step, multi- produt systems and no one product is going to look exactly the same.

[Sam Yerardi]

Jim has a good point but it sounds like you already have the desk in cherry.

[Joe Chritz]

Cherry begs for a soaking in BLO and a suntan but since you want a dark finish any number of stains or dyes will work to get the color you want.

Even with a stain cherry will darken as it ages so plan for that or accept it will be darker after a year or so.

Any decent finish will give you good service. Everyone has their favorites.

Joe

[Bob Sanders]

Bob,

Cherry will work with a lot of different finishing approaches. The main problem with cherry is known as blotching. The grain in cherry is such that the surface does not absorb liquids such as stain, etc., equally so you end up with splotches of darker coloring here and there. This is most noticeable with pigment stains. For this reason, dyes will work better as the dye penetrates the wood surface more evenly. If you want to use pigment stains, usually what you want to do first is to seal the surface of the wood before you do anything else. Typically a very thin mix of shellac or Seal Coat can be used. If you have to use stain, I would opt for GEL stain. Gel stain will not be absorbed as readily as liquid stain, and since you have sealed the surface, you have a better shot at applying a consistent coat of coloring to the surface.

Having said this about using stain to darken or color the cherry appropriately, keep in mind that cherry will darken on its own quite rapidly over time so you don't want to stain or color too darkly.

If you don't need to color or use a stain, then you can use boiled linseed oil (BLO) and/or shellac. I've gotten wonderful results with both.

Whatever you decide to do, try it on scrap pieces first to see what you like.

Great advice. Thank you. This is good information to have.

Jim has a good point but it sounds like you already have the desk in cherry.

That is correct. I've got the desk almost finished in Cherry. Oops!

[Sam Yerardi]

Bob,

Keep in mind what I have suggested is what I typical do. I know Jim and Joe both can suggest other approaches using other materials and methods as well that will have great results. That's the wonderful thing about finishes. Try some different approaches and see what you like.

[Bob Sanders]

Bob,

Keep in mind what I have suggested is what I typical do. I know Jim and Joe both can suggest other approaches using other materials and methods as well that will have great results. That's the wonderful thing about finishes. Try some different approaches and see what you like.

Please forgive me, I am really letting my ignorance shine through here, but if I wanted to go the simplest possible route to get a medium-dark type finish, would I be ok by simply getting everything sanded down perfectly and then using a simple stain (possibly a dye? what is the difference) and then a spray-on lacquer? What would the results be with this simple approach? Are ther any simple techniques I can use to improve the results?

[Sam Yerardi]

Bob,

You're learning like the rest of us so don't feel bad . Since you want a medium dark stain coloring, I would suggest the following: To make this as simple as possible, and to get a good finish, sand it smooth to 220 grit. You can then go to Lowes and get a can of Minwax Cherry stain. Stir the stain (don't shake). Wipe off the dust from the piece with a clean rag. Apply the stain with a rag. Let it stay on for a few minutes. Wipe it off with a rag. Go back and apply the stain on the locations that appear lighter than the others. Keep doing this over and over until you get to the coloring you like. When you are done, if you want a nice satin finish, you can apply amber or clear shellac. When that has dried, rub it softly with 0000 steel wool and wax. You could use spray lacquer as well instead of the shellac if you want.

[Sam Yerardi]

Also, after you use the steel wool, you can then apply a wax of your choice, and buff it out with a clean cotton rag.

[Craig Kershaw]

Bob - You might want to try Bartleys Gel Stain. Gel stain is much less likely to blotch on cherry than a regular stain. I used Bartley's brown mahogany gel stain and got a real nice dark reddish color with no blotching on a cherry bar in my basement. Whatever you decide, make sure to try this on sample or left over wood before you apply it to you finished product. Take notes on what you put on and in what order so that you can replicate it. Good luck

[Sam Yerardi]

Here is a picture of a cherry chest I made. I only applied Minwax cherry stain and shellac as I described, with a rub-out using wax and 0000 steel wool. You can see the blotching on the left post. I only wanted to darken the coloring overall and tried to keep some of the variance between the boards (note the darker board to the right). Had I wanted it darker, I would have repeated the staining application until I got it where I wanted it.

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Samyer/projects

[Bob Sanders]

What a beautiful piece Sam. I hope mine turns out half that beautiful. Thanks to you guys, I feel like I am getting a much better idea of what's going on here. I do have a few questions though. (Sam, Craig, and anyone else)


1) What is the benefit to the steel wool or very fine sanding in conjunction with the wax buffed on? Is is simply a more smooth refined finish? Will the sanding reduce the 'shininess' of the wood at all? Should you always sand after applying lacquer or schelac?

2) Craig mentioned Gel Stain. Is this a pretty popular alternative to help make a more consistent color? Are there any negatives to using this? Is it applied exactly like a normal stain? Any 'gel rules of thumb' would be helpful... I think I am going to pick up the stain tonight!

3) With the Amber or Clear Schellac, does the amber color just add a bit more 'color depth' to the end result? Why not just use clear I guess I am asking.

4) What is the difference between a dye and a pigment? Gel stains seem like the way to go... are gel stains available in dyes and/or pigments?


P.S. I am leaving in one hour to go to the store and get some stain I think... Your answers are most appreciated!

[Bill Borchers]

Hi Bob,
If you really want to learn about finishes, go to the library and check out a book called "Understanding wood finishing : how to select and apply the right finish" by Bob Flexner. It really is a great book with pictures of the actual products you can buy. I read your post and was asking the many of the same questions about three months ago when deciding how to finish my cherry chair. The book does a nice job explaining the difference between pigments and dyes, gel finishes, lacquers, etc. It obviously won't make you an expert overnight, but at least you'll start to understand the terminology!
Good Luck,
Bill

[Bob Sanders]

Hi Bob,
If you really want to learn about finishes, go to the library and check out a book called "Understanding wood finishing : how to select and apply the right finish" by Bob Flexner. It really is a great book with pictures of the actual products you can buy. I read your post and was asking the many of the same questions about three months ago when deciding how to finish my cherry chair. The book does a nice job explaining the difference between pigments and dyes, gel finishes, lacquers, etc. It obviously won't make you an expert overnight, but at least you'll start to understand the terminology!
Good Luck,
Bill

This is really good advice, and I think I will take you up on it. Only problem is, I am heavily pressured to have this project done by the end of the week, and I fear for my life if I don't have it done!

I was counting on the unequaled intelligence and experience of the individuals of this forum to get me through the week! I haven't been let down thus far!

I'm sure I could go on asking questions forever, but If I get a few more of the basics answered (like the ones I asked a couple of posts earlier) I feel like I could atleast give this project a 'go' and learn from there!