Flattening Cutting Board

[Larry Fox]

I have never built a cutting board but have done a few shess-boards and if you are working on the long-grain portion as you state I would stick with the plane. It is a little slow going and you really have to be careful to avoid the tearout but the result is worth it.

[Mike McCann]

run it thru your planer since you at the long grain stage.

[Luis Oliveira]

This is what I love about this Hobby, you can take some scrap wood and think of a simple idea like ... a cuting board, which you can buy for about 50$ to $80 for a very good cuting board.
Then you say to your self, I need a belt sander ... that is about 200$
Wait, a drum sander is probably the best: 900$ to 1600$
Wait a router and a jig, ... bits 35$ + 150$ router
Or... you can do the first glue up, drive to a lumber yard and get it flat for $25 + gas both ways + do the second glue up and drive back to the lumber yard and pay another 25$ + gas.

I figure it actually cost you more than $100 to make the cuting board + time. But it is about the quality time you spend doing something you enjoy doing.

[John Daugherty]

I use the planer for both flat grain and end grain. I take really light cuts on the end grain. I finish up with the random orbit.

[Greg Cuetara]

... take some scrap wood and think of a simple idea like ... a cuting board
Then you say to your self, I need a belt sander ... that is about 200$
Wait, a drum sander is probably the best: 900$ to 1600$
Wait a router and a jig, ... bits 35$ + 150$ router
Or... you can do the first glue up, drive to a lumber yard and get it flat for $25 + gas both ways + do the second glue up and drive back to the lumber yard and pay another 25$ + gas....

Ending up with a $50 cutting board you could have bought....Priceless

[David DeCristoforo]

"Priceless...."

Well, don't forget that after the cutting board is done, get to keep the tools. And really, that's all not as much as guys will spend to play a round of golf (excepting the drum sander of course which is probably more like two or three rounds of golf).

[Michael Sobik]

I finished up a walnut and hard maple end grain board about 6 months ago. I don't have a large sander, so I bult the router sled. I had scrap that I used for it. It worked pretty well. The bit can tear out some of the grain so you need to go slow. I just used a straight bit, but a large mortising bit would be better. Takes a little time and still requires some sanding after, but the sucker is flat.

[Stan Tilley]

I'm glad I read this thread even though I don't have a current plan to make a cutting board (I try to read through the new posts every day, if I have time.) I am constantly amazed at how many different ways there are to do a single thing. It is quite a learning experience and I appreciate everyone's input.

But as for flattening the cutting board, although I have flattened other things with an assortment of sanders, planes, planers and routers, you just can't beat a wide belt sander. A local cabinet shop lets me come in and use theirs (I try not to be too frequent about it, as I don't want to wear out my welcome). So, I would find someone with one and pay to use it if I had to. It's fast, easy and perfect.

[Frank Martin]

I flattened the long grain glue up using my jointer and planer. For the end grain portion I used a 4"x24" belt sander with a sanding frame. Didn't take more than 5 minutes per cutting board just to flatten. Then, I switched to rotex sander, followed by ROS for final smoothing. I don't think I spend more than 30 minutes each flattening/sanding each cutting board.

I would say try again with your belt sander. You may need a more agressive belt. I used 80 grit.

[Shane Sura]

Thanks for all the responses. People are definitely right for a $50 cutting board we sure do spend a lot of time. But think about all the fun we have doing it I was able to get the long grain flat by running it through the planer. I do like everyone's suggestions about a cabinet shop but unfortunately where I live there is not many solutions and I am looking at least a 30+ min trip to the nearest one. Luckily one helpful Creeker who lives nearby has offered his assistance so I will most likely take him up on that for the end grain.

As far as the belt sander I was using a 50 grit belt so thats why I was racking my brain. The plane issue was my own skill both at planing, and sharpening along with the quality of the plane.

Regardless of this project I like the idea of the router jig. Does anyone have any details on exactly the best way to do it? Seems like two equal boards on each side along with two flat and level across for the router to ride across. Seem right? Anything to watch out for?


Shane

[Greg Hines, MD]

One thing on the router rails technique. You need a bottom cleaning bit. Woodcraft sells one here:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=8225

You also need to make sure that it is sharp and preferably new, at least cleaned up.

Doc