Does anyone know the correct type of file for sharpening chains, and have a quick pic they could upload?
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Does anyone know the correct type of file for sharpening chains, and have a quick pic they could upload?
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I've read where the blade tip speed on a TS is 150 MPH....so yea...pretty fast indeed.Originally Posted by Jason Roehl
I hand sharpen and wish I had a setup where I could "get the world right" after a few hand sharpenings.
My deal with my level of hand sharpening is that my chain nevers cuts as good as it did when I just purchased the chain....so I guess I'm missing some part of the "technique".
Don't get me wrong...it does cut well when I'm done sharpening, but just not as good as it did new out of the box.
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The "secret" has been let out of the bag.....
Hand file has worked for me for years now, and I grew up sharpening chains for lumberjack uncles til I was big enough to ride on the skidders and help load out logs on the cherry picker. To say I sharpened alot of chains is an understatement.
Greg
Last edited by Dennis Peacock; 04-22-2008 at 4:50 PM. Reason: fixed quote syntax.
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round files of varying sizes for different size chain ...mainly(correct me here) 5/32" and (is it) 13/64"..????
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Pferd files, or the double cut swiss chain files from Stihl are what I use. I like the Stihl files best.
Flat for the rakers, usually round for the cutters (unless you square grind your chains)
In general:
.325 chain pitch = 3/16 file dia.
3/8 chain pitch = 13/64 file dia.
.404 chain pitch = 7/32 file dia.
Cheers
BTW - These are the most common chain pitches. There are some smaller pitch chains too that may require a 5/32 file dia. ....And some even bigger ones that not many are likely to have....
Last edited by Brad Schmid; 04-23-2008 at 11:38 AM.
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Pferd files, or the double cut swiss chain files from Stihl are what I use. I like the Stihl files best.
Flat for the rakers, usually round for the cutters (unless you square grind your chains)
In general:
.325 chain pitch = 3/16 file dia.
3/8 chain pitch = 13/64 file dia.
.404 chain pitch = 7/32 file dia.
Cheers
BTW - These are the most common chain pitches. There are some smaller pitch chains too that may require a 5/32 file dia. ....And some even bigger ones that not many are likely to have....
Ditto that, and I think you had mentioned the Northern Tool grinder that's a copy of the Oregon model? I have that grinder, and with the exception of the clamping mechanism, its a great grinder. The HF "chicago" cheapie is a joke; I saw it in the HF in Richmond. Anyway, the Northern grinder is great, as long as you're careful to clamp it securely. Once you sharpen a few chains, its really fast as well. I use my 394XP to mill with, and sharpening a 32" or 42" chain gets old quick. Watch for sales and you can usually find the Northern grinder for $85 or so. Its worth it if you do a lot of sawing. And, as someone mentioned, its a lifesaver if you rock out a chain, or hit metal.
. I like the Pferd files too. Any tips on how to keep them from loading up? I honestly hadn't checked if they are double or single cut, but they seem to fill up quicker than the stihl files. They are a heck of a lot cheaper, so it hasn't really mattered, just curious.
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I agree, as with your 394xp, the 42" chain for my MS660 can get to be just plain old WORK
Ditto that, and I think you had mentioned the Northern Tool grinder that's a copy of the Oregon model? I have that grinder, and with the exception of the clamping mechanism, its a great grinder. The HF "chicago" cheapie is a joke; I saw it in the HF in Richmond. Anyway, the Northern grinder is great, as long as you're careful to clamp it securely. Once you sharpen a few chains, its really fast as well. I use my 394XP to mill with, and sharpening a 32" or 42" chain gets old quick. Watch for sales and you can usually find the Northern grinder for $85 or so. Its worth it if you do a lot of sawing. And, as someone mentioned, its a lifesaver if you rock out a chain, or hit metal.If I remember right, the Pferd files are about $11 doz while Stihl files are about $20 doz. Haven't had to buy any in a while...
Oh yeah, the HF "Chicago" is, shall we say, rather "flexible"
Last edited by Brad Schmid; 04-23-2008 at 4:02 PM.
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Been running the Stihl framboss for years. Never got a power grinder for sharpening. Tried a couple of guides. Found them too much bother, am back to using good Stihl files and the guide clamped onto the file.
So I am back to the basics, well I gave up my Liegh Jig and am cutting dovetails by hand again too. Is this reverse evolution?
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I have the Chop Saw version and love it. Some tips I picked up over time worth mentioning.
Saw one from a Saw Shop with Blue Burnt tips after some kid went at it with the grinder. Then low and behold I see my chain has the same blue heat mark on the tip.... Solution.... I keep a dressing stone handy and dress the wheel with each chain to remove oil and dirt missed in the cleaning process. A black mark on the wheel is dirt causing a build up of heat on the steel. Next is technique.... Rather than do a one stroke chop or cut on the chain I do a series of 4 ever deeper strokes to the final depth. This lets the chain cool some between strokes.
I never was good enough to do it with a file.... The Chop Saw version lets Amateur's like me sharpen a chain... Had quite a following of customers during the winter when I would do the first one for free then charge. Never a complaint, lots of repeat business.
Pocono AL
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I repaired chain saws for professional tree trimmers for over 20 years. I used the Oregon bench mounted power sharpener mentioned in a previous post----but only after the chain had been damaged------saw users hand sharpened chains instead. Hand sharpening allows a chain to be used even after a tooth or three have been sharpened to extinction----the power sharpener shortens the useable life by as much as a third---since the setting for sharpening is determined by the smallest tooth.
The key is to also file down the anti-kickback rakers after the teeth are filed past the raker height.
Now, I will caution hand filers of one potential problem---filing opposing teeth at a different angle. That will cause the saw to cut at an angle---and it is almost impossible to cut straight with a misfiled chain.
Professionals usually 'sweeten' the teeth after several hours of use---depending on the wood being cut----more often when cutting hedge than elm, for instance. 'Sweetening' consists of using a hand file in two strokes, rotating the file on each stroke and filing into the edge. That keeps the teeth cutting edge very sharp-----if you hand sharpen correctly, you will need to use gloves to avoid being cut.
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What sort of grinder / cutter are you running in your chop saw sharpening rig~?
Is it a conventional Abrasive 10"-dia steel cutting wheel?
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Cliff,
I could be wrong, but I interpreted that to mean he was using an Oregon 511A style (kind of a "mini chop saw" if you will) machine, which have a 5 5/8" grinding wheel.
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