Need help tensioning Timberwolf blades

[Joe Close]

I recently received some TM blades, and mounted one for the first time today. I followed the instructions from Sufolk on tensioning the blade, but am getting mixed results.

In following the Flutter test, when I start reducing the tension, I get to a point where the blade begins to flutter, I stop detensioning, and the flutter goes away on its own in a few seconds. So I continue detensioning, and eventually the flutter comes back, I stop de-tensioning, and the flutter goes away on its own in few seconds. This pattern repeats until I have little very little tension and I stop the process. I can never seem to get to a point where the blade continues to flutter, so that I can begin re-tensioning until it stops.

Has anyone else experienced this? If so, how do you go about setting tension?
The saw is a Grizzly G0513x2
The blade is a TM 3/8" 6tpi PC.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

[Todd Bin]

I can tell you what David Marks taught me. That is he liked the Timber Wolf blades but did not get there policy of low tension. He tightened the heck out of that blade. He would pluck it like you would a violin sting and when the pitch was suitably high enough he would stop. Then he would push it from the side and there was very little deflection (< 1/2 inch probably < 1/4 inch). I think his thinking is the blade will be dull from resawing before the excess tension causes the blade to break. I use this method and get fine results with it

Note that I am talking about resawing her and not curve cuts on a bandsaw.

Others may be able to speak to this as well.

[Chris Szczygiel]

I've always used the first flutter as my starting point to tension and never had a problem.

[Jesse Cloud]

I heard a talk a couple of months ago by the amazing woodworker Herschel Weiss. The talk involved his technique for making bandsawn veneer. I asked how he measured the tension on his saw. He answered, with a gleam in his eye, "When I'm resawing, I tension it as tight as I can - when I'm cutting curves I tension it almost as tight as I can."

[Eddie Darby]

I'm not sure what is causing this problem, but I would point out to you that my TW blades tend to settle in an area that is just below the tension gauge on my 14" Delta BS with an upgraded spring in it.

If you are getting no vibration, then you should be getting a smooth cut no matter what the tension. The problem with too little tension will be barrel cuts caused by the blade wandering during the cut.

[Peter Quinn]

Ditto what chris said above. I stop at the first sign of flutter, shut down the machine, increase tension by a 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the trusty tension wheel, and it works very well.

If I recall the band saw I see DJ Marks using for resaw on Woodworks is an old iron behemoth that can handle all the tension you can give it. Wondering about the long term effects of the 'I'm giving it all she's got Captain!" method on a smaller saw?

[Joe Close]

I messed around and settle on the first flutter and went from there. The Grizz tension-O-meter was between 4.24 and 4.5. Ripped some poplar and it ripped as straight as I could have asked for. Thanks for all the input!