some 3d work and a plane kit

[Steve knight]

I like to play with 3d carvings. so far never sold one yet but they are fun to do. these are simple but fun ones. I have a fairy to do but it will take awhile to cut



I have been working on these kits of awhile slowly dialing them in. these are a pain to cut because of the depth 1.55" I found a downcut 3/8" bit seems to be the best tool. nice and slow 1ips


here is the fairy should be cool if I can cut it

[Joe Chritz]

I like. What are you using for a bit on the flower and how much sanding involved. It looks very refined.

Never will I not be amazed at what is possible with a decent machine and good operator.

Joe

[Steve knight]

I used a 1/8" ballnose. it was a little rough but I only spent 10 minutes sanding some by hand some with a standing star. the wood makes a difference on roughness some woods are worse then others. the harder the worse it is.

[Tim Vice]

Steve,

What programs do you use, I love you 3d stuff and have no idea what programs to use. Do you draw your own and then cut them?

[Wil Lambert]

I don't know about Steve but I use ArtCAM. There also is Types 3 out there. Either of the programs are expensive for most people (approx $7500-$8500). You can always purchase premade model from some of the services out there such as http://www.vectorart3d.com/ . The other way to get models would be to contract them to be done.

Ref : I am not in affiliate with Vectorart3D. Actually I would be more of a competitor since I do contract modeling.


Wil

[Steve knight]

I buy from your competition (G) So far I have not sold an 3d stuff so it has been more play. but iU se cut3d to make toolpaths for the 3d files and I usually import them into vcarve. but vectorart3d has a free program to make toolplaths from their art. so you only need to buy their art. I can ahrdly draw in 2d let alone 3d (G)

[Terry Beadle]

That plane kit is very interesting! If I understand correctly there are two types of adjustable mouth pieces. The kit would need to be machined in the bottom to open to the final mouth opening...a jointer would do it?

Is the wedge going to get some more machining to shape the shaving open area?

Is there going to be a screw receiver for the adjustable mouth?

Could the sides be thinner and then add center pieces of rock maple or what ever for the plane blade bed. Then glue the sides to them?

Sorry too many questions. Like I said very interesting!

[Steve knight]

That plane kit is very interesting! If I understand correctly there are two types of adjustable mouth pieces. The kit would need to be machined in the bottom to open to the final mouth opening...a jointer would do it?

Is the wedge going to get some more machining to shape the shaving open area?

Is there going to be a screw receiver for the adjustable mouth?

Could the sides be thinner and then add center pieces of rock maple or what ever for the plane blade bed. Then glue the sides to them?

Sorry too many questions. Like I said very interesting!

before you glue it up you cut the mouth block length and get it close then I adjust it with a file after I flatten the sole. soon I will have it machined to the right size. but I play with the design enough that it would be a moving target.
when your done building the plane you drill a 3/16" hole through the sole in the mouthblock slot and tap it with 1/4-20 or use a wood screw.
no I am done with the middle block and sides glue up for the most part.
the only real advantage is it is easy to flatten the bed. and you cna use different woods.
but the disadvantage is the thin glued on sides can move faster and pull away from the body.
plus it is far harder to build accurately. my method building is dirt easy everything lines up on it's own and the only real effort is in tuning the plane up.