Preparing moulding stock

[Drew Sanderson]

What steps to do to prepare stock for moulding? For my current project I am using 4/4 Red Oak of many widths and a Woodmaster 718 with the double knife attachment. Attached is a photo of the profile I am using.

Thank you,
Drew

[David Freed]

When we make blanks for our moulder, we rip to width on our Woodmaster straightedge/gangrip saw, then plane down to about 1/8" oversize, then run them through the moulder.

[James Suzda]

I do mine just the opposite as David. I plane my stock first, then rip it to size after straight line ripping one edge.
BTW, make sure you use the correct cutter first on your pictured profile. Otherwise you will not have any support on the bed for the second profile cut.

[Drew Sanderson]

How close in width do you rip?

Can you explain in more detail your ripping procedures including how you get your first edge straight line ripped?

Thanks for the help!

[Loren Hedahl]

It's always interesting when you get an answer to do it one way from one person, and to do it the opposite way from another person.

Why not try each way and make your own decision as to which is better?

[Drew Sanderson]

probably will I am still interested in hearing more plus how people go about getting that first straight edge

[Roger Ronas]

My procedure to get the first straight edge would be.
Use a long ripping guide, a circular saw with decent blade. Over hang the edge about 1/8-1/4 " and rip away.

HTH
RCR

[Peter Quinn]

For any molder/shaper operation I let each head take off 1/16"+the depth of the cut, so in your case mill stock 1/8" over final dimension in thickness and rip to final width. Put me down as a plane then rip guy if you need to plane more than 1/8" to reach rough dimension, otherwise it doesn't matter to me.

If you are going into the molding business it pays to have a straight line saw for preparing stock, other wise your sunk. Seriously. Sunk. A real 4 Head molder or better doesn't hurt either.

But, if you are making some moldings for your self or on a limited commercial basis this link shows one of the coolest ways I've seen to straight line short of a dedicated machine or a BIGGGGG slider. Check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3kv7d8BXh4

Recognize that guy? I think he's getting kinda famous, boy he's darn good.

For crowns going on ceilings I usually like 14'-16' runs to minimize scarf joints, and frankly I've moved passed the point where there is any thrill in making them myself in my small shop. Its tough to straight line 14' with a hand saw, jointer, router table, table saw jig, slider, or any other suggestion I've yet heard short of a straight like saw. Not impossible mind you, just unpleasant. Its worth it to me to pay the millwork charges to get my material straight lined on at least one edge on all but the smallest projects.

[Tom Hargrove]

When you prepare stock for a molder, the size is of the "blank" is dependent on the amount of material that your knives will remove, and the areas that it will be removed from. I don't think there is a formula that fits all situations.

The stock will need at least one good edge and one good face that is square to the good edge. Prep a sample piece of stock that is slightly oversized in thickness and width, and run it through. Adjustments may be needed to both the molder set-up and the rough stock to get the profile you want.

[Drew Sanderson]

Thank you.

You all have answered a lot of my questions. I am just doing this for myself with no commercial aspirations. I agree about having a mill do a lot of the work but the current material I had did not come from a mill. It was sawn on (not my) site many years ago and they guy was getting rid of the excess.

Thanks again!

Drew

[Brad Shipton]

I just prepped about 400' of trim with a slider and shaper for my home. I am making my own because I am restoring in a craftsman style and the amount of cherry trim would have led me to the poor house if I bought it. The slider makes short work of straight lining, but I still left the stock 1/8" over to make final clean up passes on the shaper with an outboard fence and ease the edges at the same time where needed. How are you finishing the trim? If staining, pay careful attention to the tool marks and keep the feed speed slow. I only had two knives in my insert head (7000rpm), and for the next batches I will be using four to reduce the number of tool marks and reduce the amount of sanding.

Good luck

Brad

[David Freed]

I didn't put the processes in the right order. We usually plane the lumber first, because planing can relieve some stress in the boards if there is any, which could undo your straightedge.

I use this to cut blanks.

http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery...php?album=1609

It is a custom ordered Woodmaster 718, that I further modified before I ever used it. 10 hp, 3 ph, multi-blade, 46 fpm. It straightedges and cuts the blanks in 1 pass

[Drew Sanderson]

david,

That is quite the setup. I guess it is unanimous to plane then straight edge. your reasoning makes sense.

Brad,

As you can tell by the knife profile I too am into the whole craftsman thing. This approach seemed like the only way. Around here no one seems to know what moulding is unless its painted and / or MDF. I think it is just because people like using caulk to fix their mistakes.

[Brad Shipton]

Drew, I purchased the Craftsman Interior trim detail book from Lee Valley and have modelled most after the details in it. 4.5" Base/3.5" side window moudlings/picture rail and a bunch of square stock with chamfers only. I came up with the base trim and side profiles myself and had Weinig cut me custom knives to match. The benefit of craftsman style is they used a lot of square profiles that can be made easily. The down side is craftsman style involves a ton of trim compared to modern painted styles. I think the main reason most stick to the MDF/paint route is the cost. I dropped $4k on 4/4 rough Cherry for 1/2 the house.

Brad

[Drew Sanderson]

Cost I am sure is the real reason especially for those combining the material and labor. Thanks for the tip on the book. The only one I had found so far was the one by Robert Lang. Shop Drawings for Craftsman Interiors: Cabinets, Moldings & Built-Ins for Every Room in the Home. I will have to try and find the one you suggested. Are you done with your project / making moulding?