Rust Removal for Cast Iron TS

[Dennis Lopeman]

I just did a TS (a delta, looks like a unisaw but doesn't have that label) yesterday.

I tried a few things - it was in real bad shape - I actually started with a 60 grit 7" on a Harbor Freight variable speed polisher (works good enough for this)...

I also kept the surface wet with silcone spray. There's a lot of mention of NOT using silcone here - WHY? It says on it that its good for protecting from rust... I wiped it all off afterwards, though, and used T9 as final coats... (it would be nice if that stuff didn't spray as a stream - like wasp/hornet killer!!)

Anyway - I wiped off all the muck with a rag periodically while sanding - the surface had some real deep pits in it - then I put on the 220 grit... did it all again. Was pretty smooth and shined purty when viewed on edge...

I felt as though I didn't need to use any higher grits - it was quite smooth. It was also very shiney, but I could still see dis-colorations and blotches. Am I supposed to??

Its a real old saw, and I'm sure it will be good the way it it. I'm going to sue it as a mortise and tenon station! (well - just for the shopsmith mortiser) The thing was free, from a friend of mine... same friend who gave me the RAS that I got looking almost brand new with the recalled parts replacements)

[Russ Filtz]

Don't worry about the minor discolorations, small scratches, etc. You don't need a mirror surface! Just keep watch for future rust developing and quash it early. As for the silicone, should be no problem using it for temporary cleaning as you did. however, I would have cleaned it off thoroughly with alcohol prior to using wax or T-9. the problem with silicone is that it can transfer off easily onto your workpieces and totally screw with your finishes down the line.

[Prashun Patel]

Personally, I don't see the reason to be so gentle with it. CI tops are thick and tough. I ground through rust spots on my old CI top with an angle grinder and a wire cup. Took like 5 minutes to get the whole thing looking like new. No chemicals, no mess, no elbow grease.

You can polish it after with wetdry 400+ and oil or pumice if you wish, but I just waxed it. Came out brilliant.

[Dennis Lopeman]

Cool - Thanks

I actually "cleaned" it with some WD40 -

My wife is going shopping today and I asked her to look out for Butcher wax... without silcones!

And as far as toughness - YUP - I concur... it was very tough and the 60 grit worked good. I won't worry about the discolorations, then - thanks.

SO - OffTopic here - anyone know what Delta saw I have? It looks like a Unisaw but just says Delta on it. It is also NOT belt driven but rather the blade attached right to the shaft of the motor... maybe I can take some pix. I didn't even look to see if there was a model number. Boy am I a lot of help, huh!?

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this one...

[Russ Filtz]

Be careful with the WD40 too! If you don't get it off either, it can form in to a varnish over time. Your T-9 is basically a silicone free wax. Paraffin in a can! Spray it on heavy, no wiping, for storing. Or spray it on and buff in for immediate use. No need to buy extra wax IMO. For extra slickness, look for a product called "Slip-It'. It's a liquid spray you rub on and really slicks things up. It's made for woodworking in mind, so no bad stuff to ruin your tools or finish.

[Jerry McFalls]

SO - OffTopic here - anyone know what Delta saw I have? It looks like a Unisaw but just says Delta on it. It is also NOT belt driven but rather the blade attached right to the shaft of the motor... maybe I can take some pix. I didn't even look to see if there was a model number. Boy am I a lot of help, huh!?

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this one...

Since the blade attaches directly to the motor it sounds to me like a contractor type saw. I used to work for Black & Decker which owns Delta Machinery among many others and I don't remember ever seeing a cabinet saw with the blade attached direct to the motor. I could be wrong though. If there is a model number on the saw you can most likely identify it on the service site @ http://www.dewaltservicenet.com

Good luck.

[glenn bradley]

Another satisfied Boeshield "Rust Free" user. Used correctly, it is pretty amazing stuff.

[Rob Will]

Do Naval Jelly and Rust Free have the same active ingredient(s) ??.

I personally like to scrape rust with a razor blade then use the Rust Free with Scotchbrite.

As far as Scotchbrite pads for a DA sander - your local auto body supply store has them along with a velcro mounting pad. It worked for me.

Rob

[Jacob Reverb]

Personally, I don't see the reason to be so gentle with it. CI tops are thick and tough. I ground through rust spots on my old CI top with an angle grinder and a wire cup.

While I agree on the toughness of CI and the lack of any need to "baby" it, I much prefer a ROS to an angle grinder for removing rust. It doesn't take much (at least nowhere near as much as it would take with a ROS) to take "divots" out of your table with a grinder.

If a table is rusted really bad, I might go down to 80 grit on my ROS...and keep washing/wiping off the rust with mineral spirits, before finally coating with a solution of mineral spirits, talcum powder (to fill the pores in the cast iron) and drain oil (to saturate the talcum powder).

After letting that slurry soak and settle in overnight, I wipe down real well with rags and coat with 2 coats of (carnauba) Bowling Alley Paste Wax.

Seems to work pretty well so far in my superhumid seaside barn/shop...

[Prashun Patel]

The wire cup is pretty gentle to the CI top.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

you have to wash it off (with water). Who wants to put water directly onto raw porous cast iron?

I use alcohol after a water rinse. You can pour dip or spray. It'll bond to the water and make it evaporate faster.

[Kermit Hodges]

Childs play! Here is how to restore a REALLY rust top.

http://www.kudzupatch.com/woodshop/polish_table/

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Where I used to work, we quite often had to remove rust from cast iron surfaces. What we used was a cheap vibratory sander witha scotch brite pad clipped in where the sandpaper would normally go. THey would wet down the surface with WD-40 or light machine oil and then "sand: the entire surface with the scotch brite and sander. This would remove all the rust and leave the surface clean. Wipe down the WD-40 or oil and apply T-9 and paste wax.

If your saw is going to sit long periods between uses, then liberally apply T-9 to the surface and don't wipe it down, just let it dry. When you get ready to work again spray the surface again with T-9 and wipe it down. The second spray will soften the first coat which will be gummy and leave a nice clean surface.

Lee I took your advice (mostly because I have a sander and a scotchbright pad ) to clean up a neglected 15" planer bed. It worked wonderfully. Done in < 20mins. The only twist is I let the wd-40 soak for a few hours before I started. I have no idea if this helped .
Thanks again!
Salem

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Nobody mentioned Barkeepers Friend? I just got that idea from this board a couple weeks ago.....

Our BORG has it, in the cleaner section by the Ajax and Comet. I used my B&D mouse, go ahead and laugh, yes I actually bought one. And finally got a real use out of it. It came with the scotchbrite pads. Used the BKF and WD-40. Took off all the rust. I wouldn't want to risk getting any abrasive dust up into my ROS.

I personally would be wary of an angle grinder. A lot of companies go through a lot of trouble to make the tops absolutely flat. A couple passes with a 4" grinder, and it won't be anymore. Yes, it will get rid of rust fast.

[Jason Hallowell]

Nobody mentioned Barkeepers Friend? I just got that idea from this board a couple weeks ago.....

Our BORG has it, in the cleaner section by the Ajax and Comet. I used my B&D mouse, go ahead and laugh, yes I actually bought one. And finally got a real use out of it. It came with the scotchbrite pads. Used the BKF and WD-40. Took off all the rust. I wouldn't want to risk getting any abrasive dust up into my ROS.

I personally would be wary of an angle grinder. A lot of companies go through a lot of trouble to make the tops absolutely flat. A couple passes with a 4" grinder, and it won't be anymore. Yes, it will get rid of rust fast.

I just used barkeepers friend for the first time last week and it worked great. I also got the idea from the recent threads here. A window in my shop broke during a rain storm while I was on vacation last month, and it rained on both my jointer and my Dad's old tablesaw that I was repairing for him. My Dad was shocked when he picked up his saw, it looks better than it has in decades. Both machines look like new on top.