Making a chess board

[Craig Garby]

I'm relatively new to woodworking and have a question. I want to make a chess board (8 squares x 8 squares) using mahogony for the "dark" squares and maple for the "light." Each square is to be 2 1/2" so I am thinking of cutting nine strips that are 2 1/2" x 20" (the need for the extra strip will become apparent shortly). I would stain the mahogony dark, but leave the maple light. I would glue the nine strips together, alternating the mahogony and maple. I would then cut the resulting board perpendicular to the strips, creating eight strips of alternating mahogony and maple 2 1/2" squares. I would then slide every other row over one square to create the alternating dark and light squares (which explains the need for the original ninth strip). After gluing up, I'd cut off the "extra" squares that protrude on each side as a result of having slide every other row over one square.

Obviously, I want the chess board to be flat and smooth, but I won't be able to sand it after the final gluing up because the mahogony will already have been stained. Is there a trick I can use here? Or a better technique for making a chess board? Any advice most welcome.

[David DeCristoforo]

Your method is basically sound but you will have two problems. Pre-staining the dark squares simply will not work. By the time you have finished assembling and sanding your board, your stain will be gone. Also, the joining of the long grain pieces is a "no brainer" but joining the end grain pieces after you have re-cut will be the big issue. My method involves a "special" glue joint cutter the result of which you can see in the small picture on this page:

http://www.daviddecristoforo.com/chessdd/boards.html

This provides a lot of "long grain" glue surface. I have been unsuccessful with every other method I have tried (and I do believe I have tried them all).

[Chris Szczygiel]

I've always used eight strips. Glue them alternating. The when you cut the strips off flip every other one end for end. Less waste.

As far as sanding and gluing. It would be simpler to glue up and sand everything flat. If you were to oil the finished piece the mahogany would get pretty dark and the maple will remain light.

It will be almost impossible to glue up prefinished pieces perfectly flat.

[James G. Jones]

I made one some years back and did as Chris suggested, flipping every other row end for end. I also agree that pre-staining the squares would just cause many more problems. I used the smallest biscuit available for a mini biscuit joiner to provide more glue surface and to help align the pieces. The only trick is to be very careful where you cut the slots. I seem to remember having to throw my first effort into the scrap pile because I didn't think it through.

James

[David DeCristoforo]

I "flip end for end" also but on my "best" boards I use extra strips and "shift" them. Flipping the strips "reverses" the grain direction which can result in a very "active" and sometimes almost chaotic looking board. Keep in mind that there are few people in the world fussier than "serious" chess players and anything that could be considered a distraction is to be avoided.

[Cary Swoveland]

Your boards are beautiful, David. I would think another advantage of using the glue-joint cutter is that it keeps the boards pretty flat, reducing sanding time and loss of wood thickness.

For boards that do not have a border, how do you avoid having the glue-joint show on the edges that show edge- (as opposed to end-) grain?

For the end-grain joins, another option would be to cut slots in the strips that stop short of the outside edges, and then insert loose tenons? (Splines wouldn't work, because of the cross-grain issue.) You'd have to cut the (49) loose tenons (or maybe you could buy them), something you don't do now, and glue-up would take longer, but you'd save the material that is lost with the glue-joint (I'm guessing at least 1/4" per square). Might it pay for, say, an ebony and holly board?

Cary

[Darrin Davis]

I'm a high school woodshop teacher and we just use the method from David Marks on the DIY Network show "Woodworks". The episode is called "Gameboard". Below are a few that we have done.
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[David DeCristoforo]

Well, first of all, I don't make many "unframed" boards. But on the ones I have made I have viewed the interlocking joint in much the same way as one would a dovetail or any other interesting detail. I have had little success with splines, tenons or any other manner of gluing up the end grain joints. It may work for a while, but eventually they will fail.

[Joe Chritz]

There is also a method involving veneer strips. I have one in progress now that will hopefully work out well.

The major advantage over solid is that you don't have to worry about wood movement. You are however, forced to have a framed board.

Basically two pieces about an inch thick are glued together then resawn into four strips. Glue down to substrate, rip, flip and reglue.

Joe

ETA: Nice looking boards David. I will have to do one like that sometime. The raised playing surface is a really nice touch.

[Craig Garby]

Thanks . . . very helpful advice from all. And David, your boards are beautiful, especially the tournament rosewood / maple / mahogony board.

[John Schreiber]

Your method is basically sound but . . .

Sawmill Creek is wonderful. Thanks David for sharing your knowledge and experience with us amateurs. Your boards are beautiful.

[Mike Langford]

I built one a few months ago out of Purple Heart & Maple.....

I based my construction methods from this tutorial - "How To Build A Chess Board" by Alex Franke
http://plans.thefrankes.com/Tutorials/ChessBoard/

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