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Thread: Direct Metal Marking

  1. #1
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    Direct Metal Marking

    I saw that Universal advertises it can mark directly on metal using a H....lens, Epilog has the fiber laser and Trotec has a combo laser. What are the pro's and cons to these systems?
    Last edited by Brian Robison; 08-12-2008 at 8:49 AM. Reason: Cna't Smell Troe-tech...
    Brian Robison
    MetalMarkers
    Epilog Mini
    Rabbit 1290

  2. #2
    I can only speak for Epilog's FiberMark because we use it every day, but it is simply amazing.

    We mark on aluminum (bare and anodized), brass, steel, and stainless steel. Brass is the best material to work with because we can really speed the machine up and still produce very dark marks. Stainless steel requires us to slow down the machine, but still produces very dark marks.

    No need for surface treating any metal with CerMark or the like. I just wish it could do more (similar to a CO2 system).

  3. #3
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    Thanks Bryan, that's why I'm wondering about the CO2 marking one Universal is offering. I'd need the flexibility.
    Brian Robison
    MetalMarkers
    Epilog Mini
    Rabbit 1290

  4. #4
    Brian

    I can mark stainless with a standard 2" lens with my 45 watt Trotec. It's not fast but the mark is pretty good. It can be rastered or vectored.

    Non magnetic stainless does not mark well with a co2 laser.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Robison View Post
    Thanks Bryan, that's why I'm wondering about the CO2 marking one Universal is offering. I'd need the flexibility.
    I'm not quite sure how a lens would be able to manipulate the laser into directly marking on metal. It's the wavelength of the laser that determines what it can/cannot mark on (or so I'm led to believe, correct me if I'm wrong). I'd like to learn more about that if that is infact true.

  6. #6

    Metal marking

    Brian,

    For true metal marking one should use a Fiber/YAG/YV04 wavelength (approx. 1062nm) laser. This wavelength of light is ideal for all metals as well as certain engineered plastics. Unlike the C02 (10,600nm), the Fiber won't typically mark on the same materials a C02 would.

    Using ANY mid to high power C02 (45-120W) system with the proper optics (smaller focal length, collimated), you can anneal (changing the surface color to blues/purples/blacks) steel/stainless. Con here is slow speed and no depth.

    Some companies offer a combo laser as you have stated; Pro is that its an all in one machine for all your marking & cutting needs. Con is cost, for the price of one of these lasers, you could purchase a Fiber/YAG/YV04 and a C02, have both working simultaneously and not be limited to using one source or another at any given time.

    HTH,
    Peck Sidara
    Epilog Laser
    888.437.4564 ext. 236

  7. #7
    Brian

    Here is a Zippo letter opener I was messing around with. The photo isn't good of my name but it looks pretty good.

    both were rastered.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Null View Post
    Brian

    Here is a Zippo letter opener I was messing around with. The photo isn't good of my name but it looks pretty good.

    both were rastered.
    Any type of coating prior to marking?

  9. #9
    No, this is just bare metal.

    As Peck says, it's slow but you can get paid for it as long as you're not interested in high volume jobs.
    Last edited by Mike Null; 08-12-2008 at 11:33 AM. Reason: add
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  10. #10
    I assume that's the coloring from a spot anneal type of process?

    If you rub it with 0000 steel wool does it rub off?

    charlie
    Epilog Legend EXT 75W
    Model airplane kits

  11. #11
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    I am doing a little testing on a job I sort of inherited from Vicky Orsini another member here who is local to me, and apparently closing her business, so she sent this customer to me.. These are a pewter dog tag (woof dog tag, not military dog tag) They have been clear coated by the manuf. so before I could cermark them, I had to either burn or sandblast the coating off the area to be marked. But, I did discover that if I run 100% power, at 2% speed @ 600 dpi, the text goes pure black on the coated pewter without cermark, and without removing the coating. However, If I don't put a clear coat on them afterwards, I can rub off the text.. Once the clear coat is nice and dry.. The mark seems pretty rugged... So far!! Too bad about losing a creeker though.. If your lurking and reading this Vicky Thank you for the referral, I have not shown these to the customer yet, but she can choose between cermark and 'brute force marking' from the samples..
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win

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  12. #12
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    Bill,
    What's the wattage of your laser?
    Brian Robison
    MetalMarkers
    Epilog Mini
    Rabbit 1290

  13. #13
    The High Density Optics package is less than a $3000 option that can be added to any of the new ULS systems. Hardly the cost of buying two laser systems.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
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    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Robison View Post
    Bill,
    What's the wattage of your laser?
    Well Thats a good question!! When I bought it, it was supposed to be a 35 watt. I replaced the tube last month, and now the laser has 'at least' 30-40% more power than it ever had, even when new!.. I'm wondering if they shipped me a 45 watt tube as a replacement, or I just got a exceptional tube.. For example, engraving rubber stamp polymer used to be done at 100% power, and 8% speed, I now have to speed up the machine to 15%, and it cuts as deep as it did at 8% when the machine was new..
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win

    I Have to think outside the box.. I don't fit in it anymore


    Experience is a wonderful thing.
    It enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.


    Every silver lining has a cloud around it




  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Cape Town, South Africa
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    AFAIK , most laser tube mnfgrs will spec a tube at the "minimum" wattage , ie a 25 W tube will deliver AT LEAST 25 w.
    You can be lucky and get an overpowered tube , some of our 30w machines deliver at least 38w+ on the table.
    Oddly enough , we find that a 25 Synrad tube delivers way more "apparent power" than a 30 Coherent.....The watt meter says it doesnt , but our settings enable faster and deeper cuts. I think it has a lot to do with beam quality and spot size as the wattage a tube puts out is spread over an area , 25 watts of power on a spot 2/3rds of the size of another tube would result in a far higher power density. We have a competitor with a 200w laser and our 30 watters cut better , thicker and faster than theirs does on the same material....... Go figure.
    We looked at the dual purpose Trotec , but felt that considering it was still a flying optic and not a galvo laser , we could see very little advantage over using cerdec apart from being able to engrave much bigger areas without coatings (galvos are limited to areas)
    I can also mark bare metal with a 1.5" lens with the 3 of the 30w lasers I have that have built in collimators , it is way way too slow to be truly useable and the range of materials is sorely limited (only does certain types of stainless)

    We also find that by far the biggest market for direct metal marking is the promotional industry (some technical applications as well , but these arent the big jobs) and the promotional industry is a minefield. Non payment is a big issue , fly by nighters as well , but we find that there is NO loyalty in the industry , if the promo co's can get it for 1c cheaper elsewhere , poof they are gone , no matter how good your service or how you have helped them out the doo-doo prior to that. So we have let all the new guys in the laser field fight for their share of that industry and concentrate on real high profit jobs like fabricating point of sale items and so forth.
    The one thing we have realised is that to be a do it all to all and sundry is a vERY expensive business strategy , requiring significant investment in specialised tooling for very little return. Yes , you might really "need" that YAG to fully service all the ppl that come to you or enquire about a laser service , but are you really going to make money out of it , cos along with the tool , comes a huge commitment to actually marketing it , even to exisiting customers.
    Last edited by Rodne Gold; 08-24-2008 at 3:29 AM.
    Rodney Gold, Toker Bros trophies, Cape Town , South Africa :
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