Leather Desk Top ?

[Tommy Emmons]

I would like to put 3 leather inserts on a desk top. Can anyone direct me to a source (online or published book) where I can learn the technique? I want to know how the insert is covered, what kind of leather is recommended, the joinery method, and many more questions. Thanks Tommy

[Joe Jensen]

I only subscribe to Fine Woodworking and I am fairly certain that they did an article on doing exactly that. I don't have an online subscription so I can't search for it...joe

[Tommy Emmons]

Sorry about that. I have a subscription to FWW and have not found the article. Do you have any information on approximately when or the subject matter of the article?

[Jack Camillo]

I, too, would like to know how that is traditionally done. Good question.

[Jim Podsedly]

Tommy,

Not sure if this will help or not but here is a plan for a desk with a leather top:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...g/1273336.html

jim

[Tommy Emmons]

Thanks Jim, that helps alot. I was suprised to see that the leather was applied without folding it over the substrate. I would think that the raw edge might show. This is the first how to that I have seen. I appreciate your response.

[Lucas Bittick]

Thanks Jim, that helps alot. I was suprised to see that the leather was applied without folding it over the substrate. I would think that the raw edge might show. This is the first how to that I have seen. I appreciate your response.

I do not know the exact do-it-yourself technique, but based on the fine old desks that I have SEEN, the leather is not turned under the substrate because it will eventually need to be replaced. It is intended to bear the wear associated with writing, traditionally with quill/fountain pens. To hide the leather edge, the leather bed should be recessed a couple of mm into the desk top. If you have an existing desktop, then you will need to determine the edge boundaries and remove surface material where the leather will be glued, if you want an authentic look. This will also remove any finish that might be on the surface to allow the glue to work properly. What kind of surface do you have?

In the old days, animal glue was most likely used to secure the leather panels. This would also be friendly to the leather and the wood. It could then be heated and removed as replacement demanded.

Van Dykes sells the leather for restoration purposes, for example: http://www.vandykes.com/product/cb14...k-top-leather1

[Andrew Duncan]

I just ordered three panels for a desk I'm making (inspiration from Jason Tuinstra whose 2005 desk described in postings on SMC is terrific) from antiquerestorers.com. James, who owns the place, was very helpful in telling me exactly what I needed and his website includes detailed installation information. Best of luck.

[Roger Everett]

Sorry about that. I have a subscription to FWW and have not found the article. Do you have any information on approximately when or the subject matter of the article?

Tommy:
I found some that apply on the leather --FWW # 76, pg.70-71 ---#104, pgs.46-47 -- #140, pg. 98 ( in the Q&A section ) --- # 145 pgs. 120-124, Master class
My issues start at about 81, so couldn't check #76, but the others #104 and #145 cover inlaying w/ leather pretty good.

To go to the FWW index -- Go to home pg. - next to search is search tips, click on -- scroll down on L to a small block, says 5 search tips , click on , online search-- brings up letters A-Z, pick a letter. used to be easy to get to index, since they started charging for the online, it's harder. I have tripped on the index before, they ain't making it easy now, had to trip around the site a bit to find it.

HTH
Roger

[David Keller NC]

Tommy - Looks like you've gotten some useful info in replies so far. I've done a few of these, so I can offer a couple of tips that might not be in the article -

The leather may not be all that easy to find. Fabric stores used to stock it, but seem largely to have quit carrying the stuff. Mostly what I have found is unsuitable for a writing surface - thin, very flexible and soft leather designed for upholstering furniture. Instead, I'd suggest seeking out a Tandy Leather store (or you can order online). What you generally want is a thick (relatively) piece of cowhide designed for saddle making. It should be a half-skin if you want a rectangular piece about 18" X24" for a typical writing surface. You're buying the extra square footage to avoid brands, scars and other blemishes that may be in the natural hide.

I'd suggest dying it yourself for a dark color. Tandy also sells dyes designed to work with leather, and they come in a range of colors. Just as with wood, applying the dye can be tricky, and you can get lap marks if you're not careful. Dyeing it a dark color hides some of this and so is easier for a beginner to get right.

And lastly - it's important to use hot hide glue if you want this to be removable. Hot hide glue also has superior tack and holding power over yellow glue when applied to the somewhat oily leather. Contact cement will also work - at first. My experience with it has been that the leather works loose after a couple of heating/cooling seasons. The ones I did with hide glue have yet to let go or bubble, and it's been 6 years for the first one (so far).

[Tommy Emmons]

Thanks to all of you. I knew if I waited a little while that the cumulative knowledge of this board would come through. Lots of great information, tips, and sources. Thanks again. I will post a picture when I make the desk.