WorkBench HELP - ShopNotes #65

[Dan Schmidt]

I am building the same workbench from ShopNotes 65, but instead of the MDF top I am using a laminate maple top with the same dimensions. As you can see I just completed attaching an oak apron to the front & rear. My next step is to attach the side aprons (along the LH and RH sides of the bench) which are the same width as the other aprons, but are cut to length so it's flush with the outside faces of the front/rear aprons.

MY QUESTION: Can I glue the side aprons to the top as I am with the front/rear, or will the seasonal expansion/contraction of the maple ruin my top? What would happen?

I know the MDF is more dimensionally stable, but I see the new Powermatic saw has a maple side table which has an apron which is fixed in the way I'm describing. Must not be a real concern?

[Eddie Darby]

If you look at laminated bench tops, you don't see any trim on the ends.

Why do you need to put trim on the ends? Is it sacrificial?

[Chris Friesen]

If you glue the end caps, eventually something will split. Better to attach it using lag bolts, with elongated holes at the back end to allow for movement (and make sure it's designed so that it can move at the back end.

Alternately, just leave them off. I'm a big fan of no aprons on a typical workbench...just a big slab. Of course if you're doing an English-style bench then things change.

[john bateman]

If you read this article and examine the detailed drawing, it shows a method for attaching the end-caps. On page 3 is the paragraph referring specifically to this issue.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...g/1302961.html

[Dan Schmidt]

Thanks - I'll use lag bolts or bench bolts per your suggestion.

I am putting aprons on this top since I want to use these surfaces as the inner jaw of my 10" vise and a twin screw vise. Here is the picture of what I'm building.

Clearly, the MDF top shown in this picture makes it easy to glue on aprons.

[Adam Leone]

I am tempted to start this same bench. I love the qtr sawn look along with the cabinet they had in a subsequent issue. Dan, how did it turn out? Has anyone else built/used this bench design or used red oak in general? I can't imagine there being any problems and figures I would as the questions.

This will be my first "real" bench so I had 2 other questions to ask?

1) Has anyone used Poplar for the top? I know it won't be quite as good as maple but at > 1/2 the price...

2) This bench uses bolts to attach the stretchers to the legs. Most other designs use tenons. Do you think I will be sacrificing any strength/stability? Without true middle/top stretchers, I wonder whether this has more style than substance?

All thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

[John Townsend]

I have a nearly finished design for the bench shown in ShopNotes #65 and a short post discussing of some design considerations. See my post in:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...15174#poststop