Bleaching Wood Question

[Judy Kingery]

Hello all,

Just had a question for any suggestions on how one might bleach wood or what you use to do that and the methods you use, i.e. soaking or paint it on, putting any finish over it or leaving it as is.

Thank you much in advance for any recommendations!

Sincerely and hope a nice Holiday weekend to you as well.

Jude

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Hi Judy
I use the 2 parts bleach, (got it at HD) I mix it in those small medicine cups and paint it onto the turning and let it dry, you can wash it off/neutralize with water if you want.
The bleaching does not go deep, especially on side grain, so you have to do all your sanding prier-to, I like to protect the color with some rattle can lacquer, HTH
Happy thanksgiving

[Allen Neighbors]

Jude, Like Leo, I used the 2-part Wood Bleach. It was a long time ago, but IIRC, Part A is the Bleach, Part B is the neutralizer. (Maybe I don't RC). I used it on an old German cabinet that had been stained with that old black manure stain. It had to be kept damp and didn't get penetrated stain, but it should do well for a turned piece.

[Judy Kingery]

Lee and Al,

Thank you ever so much for the detail and suggestions. I'll try the sand blasting first then. And if needed, bleach with the two part-suggestion.

I'll be doing an Ash turned piece as my first experiment.

Thank you again and yes, best wishes to you both for a nice Holiday weekend.

Jude

[charlie knighton]

Judy,

Judy, be sure to wear gloves (chemical) and a face mask. it is easy to get the solution on yourself taking off the gloves and putting them on.

[Judy Kingery]

Charlie,

Thank you - will be mindful of that, appreciate it! Will let you all know how it goes!

Thanks!

Jude

[robert hainstock]

I have used oxalic acid for bleaching wood for many years. It figures that that because the treated surface must be acid neutralized that some marketing genius would package the two as a "wood bleach" kit. I do not know that this is so, I just suspect it. I neutralize the acid effect with baking soda; this has to be done to protect the finish. You will also want to find some way to neutralize clorine bleach if you use it. Good luck!
Bob

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Hi Judy, sorry to take so long, but I forgot till today to have a look at the Wood bleach for the ingredients, I knew it was not Oxalic acid, as I use that to take iron stains out.
Anyway the one bottle has Caustic Soda also called (Sodium Hydroxide) in it and the other bottle has Hydrogen Peroxide, a liquid with strong oxidizing properties and used for bleaching and as a disinfectant in diluted form.

When these 2 parts are mixed you get another chemical, called Sodium hydroperoxide a very aggressive compound that actually lightens and removes the natural color of wood., I will add some info if you are interested to know about it .

[Rick Phelan]

Just a note of caution here. I remember from my boatschool training that one must be extremely careful of oxalic acid. The solution has to be neutralized prior to drying as the crystals that form on the wood are extremely dangerous to the user if sanded. Read and follow directions to the letter when using it.

[robert hainstock]

Just a note of caution here. I remember from my boatschool training that one must be extremely careful of oxalic acid. The solution has to be neutralized prior to drying as the crystals that form on the wood are extremely dangerous to the user if sanded. Read and follow directions to the letter when using it.

In addition, it should be mentioned that any bleaching agent should be neutralized before thry to get finish to stick. I use a very small portion at a time. This should be the form with any of the acids that are useful around the shop.
Bob

[Leo Van Der Loo]

The oxalic acid does have to be neutralized, the 2 part wood bleach can be finished right over, it also doesn't raise the grain so you don't need to do any sanding, that is another good thing about the 2 part wood bleach, and I normally do finish with a spray lacquer on those small pieces that I would bleach