Very cool!! Better be careful...you'll start using it before you get the lacquer on it!
Very cool!! Better be careful...you'll start using it before you get the lacquer on it!
~john
"There's nothing wrong with Quiet" ` Jeremiah Johnson
Wow, what a nice desk.
I like your cord management solution!
- Andy
I am so totally stealing that cord through the leg trick. Too cool.
Aside from what everyone else thinks, I think it is veyr nice!
Absolutely beautiful! Everything you make seems to be better than the last project.
What is your secret for cutting the drawer fronts so that the grain matches accross? Do you use a bandsaw and get really accruate, or do you cut the piece apart and glue the apron back together?
Even better than the inspiration piece!
Absolutely beautiful
Did you happen to take progress pics as you were working on the project? I think I speak for many that it would be cool to see how did the hollow leg, the leather inserts/supports and cut the perfect drawer openings out of the front apron.
Again, WOW!
Good job Jason
Thats my style ....
I Love My Dedicated Machines ! And My Dedicated Wife Loves Me !
Thanks everyone for the kind words and comments! You guys and gals are always so very gracious. That's what I love about SMC. You really make this place what it is.
Construction pics: I really don't have a lot and I don't know why I took the ones I did, but here is what I have. Sorry, they're not the best, but they give you some idea as to what I did.Originally Posted by Kevin Murdock
Pic #1 is a two pics of the leg detail. You can see in the picture to the right the 1/8" strip that I cut off if you look closely. It's not perfectly square becuase when I cut the mortise, a bit of the unsupported wood blew out. The left picture shows the angle relief that I cut for the cord. Again, horrible picture, but you can see at least what I did.
Pic #2 is a picture of the bottom of the hidden compartment. I did all the drawer cut outs on the tablesaw by ripping strips and cutting the drawers out, and then gluing the pieces back together and ripping to final width. Making sure that everything was centered how I wanted it was a trick, but careful measuring paid off. I've seen Norm cut drawers out with a PC Trim saw, but I don't like the idea of it not being square. The table saw ensures nice fitting drawers. I'm sure others have their own tricks, but this is the way I learned how.
Hope this helps.
Jason,
I'd like to add...
Thank you for sharing your gift with us.
-joe
Illegitimi non carborundum
"If you walk, just walk, if you sit, just sit, but whatever you do, don't wobble."
-Zen Master Unmon
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Jason,
I agree with all of the superlatives voiced by other posters. You are a fantastic craftsman.
So you mention that you've gotten started on a chair to go with the desk. Would you mind sharing with us what you have in mind-- or do you prefer to keep this under you hat until its finished?
Dan
Mum's the word - only becuase I don't know how to describe it. In my mind, it's a combination of a Moser style chair and a Brian Boggs style chair. Right now, I plan to use black Shaker tape for the seat. We'll see how it turns out. I've never built a chair before.Originally Posted by Dan Larson
Jason,
Thanks for allowing us to visually see the product of your woodworking skills. Your desk is simply beautiful!! You must have a special wife who supports all of your God given talents.
Bill Sampson, Richmond
Jason - I've been drooling over your desk all day, but something in the pictures seemed funny to me and have only now realized what it is.
I see that you bread-boarded the long side rather than the short side. While I have no idea if one or the other is traditional, I'll admit that I've only ever seen or done bread-boarding on the short side.
So, I was wondering what led to this design decision. What that how Thos. Moser did it? Or was it your preference? Or did it just happen that way?
I still think/believe/know that you did an A1 job.
Only the Blue Roads
Andy, correct me if I'm wrong, but breadboard refers to the end cap put on a solid wood top - typically done to prevent warping of the top (and it looks good). My top is frame and panel. The frame consists of mortise and tenon joinery - hence the pegged joints. The panels float on cleats attatched to the inside of the frame members. Make sense? I believe this is the way Moser did it as well. I suppose you could miter the outside edges, but I think the mortise and tenon is a stronger way of doing it - and easier
My mistake. Was so keyed in on the joinery at the corners of the desktop that I didn't bother to even think about the desktop in whole. Now that I know that it's frame and panel your approach is the better solution.Originally Posted by Jason Tuinstra
And no, I wasn't proposing mitered corners (I like end grain), just reversing what tenons into what, along with the normal breadboard joinery treatment for a solid wood top.
Thanks for opening my eyes.
Only the Blue Roads