Preference: Sliding Compound Saw vs. Chop Saw

[Don Brubaker]

I have a DeWalt 12" Sliding Compound Saw, but it takes up "depth" on any kind of table / workbench and am considering switching to a non-sliding one (with a laser of course!). The best solution I suppose would be the new Festool, but does anyone have a spare $1200 plus they could "give" me?! Anyway, seems like most workshops only have the fixed compound chop saw and NOT the sliding compound. A Radial saw will NEVER be in my shop!!!, so please don't suggest! They are death traps! Hopefully this won't cause a tangential discussion! Thanks.

[Frank Snyder]

Have you considered the Hitachi C12LSH? It's a 12" SCMS that operates like the Kapex does so you can park it against the wall. It also has a laser, digital readout and decent dust collection. It's also about 1/3 the cost of the Kapex.

[Eddie Watkins]

I have the 10" Makita slider and a 10" Dewalt non-slider. I bought the Dewalt 703 to take to job sites because it was lighter and less apt to get out of adjustment by being moved. It does a good job. 99% of my cuts do not require a slider but for the other 1% I'm glad I have it. It had never accurred to me to mount the Dewalt in the shop so I could save space and just use the slider when I needed the extra depth of cut. I may try that.

[Wayne Cannon]

I keep looking at "upgrading" my 12" compound miter (chop) saw to a 10" slider, but every time I compare the play in the slider compared with a chop saw, I decide to stick with my non-slider.

It has been very rare that I've needed the additional width-of-cut that the slider provided (if necessary, I gain about an extra inch by raising the work up off the table with a spacer -- i.e., closer to the widest portion of the blade at its center).

If you get a chop saw, consider these factors:

• one that tilts both left and right, and
• one with a belt or angled drive to get the motor out of the way for greater depth of cut

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

every time I compare the play in the slider compared with a chop saw, I decide to stick with my non-slider.

Like Wayne, I noticed quite a bit of play in the sliders I looked at so I decided to go with a non slider, no frills DeWalt 10" for the shop-chop saw.
FWIW - I do have an 8 1/2" slider - a low end Workforce.
It's my rough in - on the job site - won't shed too many tears if it grows legs - saw.
It does OK on most things with a decent blade, but it's got a lot of play in it.

[Ron Dunn]

I wouldn't rush into buying a Festool Kapex at the moment ... there is a lot of unhappiness in their forums about problems with this tool.

[Peter Quinn]

I work in a cabinet shop which has no SCMS, just a 12" Makita CMS. Of course there is an 11' panel saw with a 14" blade about 10 feet from the chop saw, but still we get by without a SCMS!

Seriously, it depends on how you like to work, what you make mostly, and what other methods you have available. No reason you must have a slider except as determined by you.

Oh, about that RAS is death trap comment. Shame on you for displaying your ignorance with such bravado. There are many machines that bare the monicker RAS which would function better as boat anchors, but there is nothing implicitly more dangerous about a GOOD WELL TUNED QUALITY RAS than any other wood cutting machine.

It will cost you several thousand dollars to get a RAS as good as mine today, and for most that is simply not worth it. I got mine free, so it was worth it to me. Also it helps to know how to use one, and that is more difficult information to acquire these days too. I wouldn't recommend a RAS in this day and age for home use as a necessity, but it would be hard for me to work w/o mine, and no SCMS or chop box can do what my RAS can. It's like comparing apples to Sherman Tanks.

[Chris Kennedy]

I have a non-sliding chop saw -- Ryobi, 10 inch. I bought it at the time because it was I could afford, and I like it. It does what is supposed to. I had always figured that I would eventually upgrade to a sliding miter saw.

I have changed my mind. I bought a table saw, and I use it for anything that cannot be crosscut using my miter saw. Now, if the material is really long and really deep, it can be difficult without a sled. But with the size of my shop, it would be difficult with a sliding miter as well.

The upshot is this -- the amount of money for a good sliding miter is a long way to a good hybrid saw. If you have the space, I would consider holding off, saving your money, and investing in a table saw and keeping your chop saw. There is a lot of added versatility if you have the space (which, of course, is a huge issue).

Cheers,

Chris

[Mike Henderson]

I have a 12" Bosch that I bought because I didn't have room for a slider (counter space not deep enough). I've been happy with it. I rarely run into anything where I wish I had more cut.

Mike

[Ron Dunn]

This is my SCMS:



USD155 with Japanese tooth blade.

Works really well. Portable. Environmentally friendly. Neighbour-friendly at 1am. Safe.

[Frank Snyder]

Ron - Is that the Nobex or the Jorgensen?

[Ron Dunn]

Frank, it is the Nobex Champion.

I have its little brother - an older Nobex Proman - but the combination of bigger stock size and Japanese blade availability drove the upgrade.

[Neal Clayton]

This is my SCMS:



USD155 with Japanese tooth blade.

Works really well. Portable. Environmentally friendly. Neighbour-friendly at 1am. Safe.

should tell my neighbor about those. i hear that guy over there sawing stuff at midnight on some days. gotta give it to him, he's a trooper . i've usually seen enough sawdust by 3 or 4 pm most days.

[Robert Dunaway]

I have the 12" DeWalt non-slider.

I cut a lot of crown on my chop saw. I remember reading that the sliders don't have that gnats...uh...hiney accuracy that I need.

For the rest of my projects, I've never needed anything bigger. I've had to stick a board under the piece to get that extra skoosh of cut length, but that's about it.

[Randal Stevenson]

Since your not comfortable with a radial arm saw (bad ones, verses comfort level and experience), you have limited room (and no budget for Kapex, or? Hitachi), your already aiming yourself toward a Dual CMS.

Sounds like you need a PUSH to build some table saw sleds, for your wider boards.