Best Quality 10" Cabinet Saw

[Steve Mathews]

Sorry forum members, I didn't intend to create controversy and no I'm not a troll. And yes my question was about the best quality at any price safety features aside. I'm aware of the patented SawStop safety technology. What I'm not aware of is its overall quality compared to other cabinet saws.

[Chris Hachet]

Sorry forum members, I didn't intend to create controversy and no I'm not a troll. And yes my question was about the best quality at any price safety features aside. I'm aware of the patented SawStop safety technology. What I'm not aware of is its overall quality compared to other cabinet saws.

And I am sorry, maybe I was not clear in my response.

Find the one you like the most from a subjective viewpoint (try to use an actual version of the machine) buy it, make sawdust, rinse and repeat. A 1947 Unisaw and a modern Sawstop will work equally well for 98 percent of what you are going to do.

My only input would be four fold;

#1. I like how 3 phase motors run and the subjective feel of how the saw operates with a VFD and soft start/controlled stop. Used 3 phase cabinet saws can be had at a bargain price if you are patient and wait until you find a nice clean machine at a fair price. YMMV.

#2. I would choose a saw with 3 HP over a lower powered saw. A really ugly 1968 Powermatic with 3 HP would beat any 1.75 HP Saw stop IMHO. A 3 HP Sawstop would beat any nice restored vintage machine that ran on 110V and had 1.5 HP.

#3. You will probably adapt to the individual quirks of whatever machine you choose.

#4. Your own techniques with the saw will outweigh any brand decision-a skilled operater with a less than ideal saw will outperform a less than skilled operator with the best saw on the planet.

Bottom line-check out a few saws, buy what you like, and make sawdust. There is not one particular 'best saw."

[Ron Citerone]

I use a Grizzly and Unisaw on a regular basis. I would rather have a decent used Unisaw over the Grizzly any day. Never used a Sawstop so I dont really know, but if you can afford it, the safety factor is huge. I used a table saw daily at work for 35 years and the only injury I had came from knot that kicked back and caught my finger. That doesnt mean a finger/blade accident couldn't happen though.

[Patrick Curry]

Can you elaborate? Most of us can find a used Unisaw fir the same price as a 1023 (or lwas)

[David Kumm]

I think most of the new saws have changed enough that they don't follow the old designs anymore. I don't have a Uni picture but this is a Rockwell 12. If you look at the comparable on the websites you will see little similarity.DSCN2210.jpgDSCN2213.jpgDSCN2214.jpg This is much heavier than a 10" but much lighter than an old cast iron Whitney, Oliver, Wadkin type. The 12" saw is really the bargain used. As you can see, this one is even single phase, with a sliding table and separate scoring. Pristine and still only worth about 2K on the market. Dave

[Gregory Carles]

Embrace the technology, I recommend a saw stop. Since purchasing mine I have yet to go to the shop and say, I wish I had spent less for a saw. Instead I say I'm glad I got the correct saw (for me) (the first time). The saw stop is an engineering marvel. And super accurate and powerful. Hard to go wrong. I realize all machines can take a finger off mighty quick. Just if the technology is there with the table saw go for it. If I could get a jointer with this safety feature I would.

[James Williams 007]

The quality of the Sawstop is top notch. I bought one for my dad as a x-mas gift because hes a surgeon and knew the tech was solid but had doubts about the build quality. Boy was I wrong, you couldn't ask for a better saw. Solid build and it has a slick mobile base. This will be my next saw if my Jet ever needs to be replaced.