Jay, see this link:
http://www.thistothat.com/glue/pva.shtml
Corey
I'd like to know what sort of hide glue they were using..Hot?, liquid bottled?, which gram strength and how was it applied...
Thanks. Thats very interesting article. I tried the gorilla glue and didnt like it because its so messy but it does expand so it has its applications. What is the long setting glue I see mentioned on David Marks show so often for complicated glue-ups? The gorrilla glues says it sets up in 1/2 hour.
I gotta add a little here....
I 'am a tite bond three man= pva.
For your basic assembly's.
Urea For time.
Epoxies on moldings.
But when it comes to shear holding power on darn near anything...
There is one poly I believe to be invincible.
PL premium polyurethane adhesive.
Just last week I returned to a job I did 21 years ago,
stilled glued up tight, outside and exposed to the elements.
Per
"all men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night....wake in the day to find that it was vanity; but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dream with open eyes, to make it possible."
T.E. Lawrence
that moisture cure polyurethane adhesive Glue is my GO TO glue in only two situations:
1.) when gluing a polymer to wood and for whatever reason contact cement won't do it.
2.) when gluing end grain to something and all I really want is to seal the end grain and a little adhesion is good.
That said I wonder if the following wouldn't be a good idea for end grain apps':
End grain glue up in 2 stages: first stage: seal the end grain with epoxy. Second stage: sand and re-apply epoxy and make the glue joint.
Any one ever tried that?
Martin, Granbury, TX
Student of the Shaker style
A feature of PU glues which no-one has yet mentioned is it's contraceptive qualities.
A day using that stuff in the shop and SWMBO will scream 'You're not coming near me with those hands!'
And it takes a week to wear off...
Remember Bob's posting relative to which glues can be re-glued? If I remember correctly only epoxy, hide, and plastic resin could be re-glued to itself if the joint failed. Now I don't like the idea of contemplating a joint failure, but in the 200 years some of our early American cabinetmakers have had pieces survive, there are bound to be some failures occur.
One of my most ambitious projects has polyurethane glue (Gorrilla) in a ctitical joint. Hopefully, the mechanical aspects of that joint will save it.
Well, at 85 I don't have to worry very long about it.
18th century nut --- Carl
Yup....I use a lot of liquid hide glue. I like it and guess what.....no glue stains anywhere because this stuff will clean up nicely with warm water.
I even tried to take a glue joint apart by saturating it with water for about 2 hours. It never would come apart......it's still stuck together today.
Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
Dennis -
Get the Benefits of Being an SMC Contributor..!
....DEBT is nothing more than yesterday's spending taken from tomorrow's income.
On the other hand (no pun intended), I use Gorilla Glue when cementing brass tubes into drilled pen blanks. The stuff does a good job bonding metal to wood. But I sure wear rubber gloves when handling Gorilla Glue. Otherwise, it stains the skin like crazy. Even acetone will not remove the stains on my fingers although it does remove spills from my workbench. The FWW article made me wonder if other glues might not work just as well...without the staining. Any experience with other glues for bonding metal to wood?
Al Clem
Sedona, AZ
>> Titebond 3 lists 58°F as the minimum temperature.
That's not correct. The specs on Titebond III is that it is usable down to 47 degrees. It's one of the benefits of using that product and is the lowest using temperature of any PVA adhesive.
Howie.........